Hi folks,
Ready to reassemble the bottom end of the R16 Stroker project and just wanted to double check with you guys.
Anybody know which way the teeny oil spray holes in the connecting rods face for the U20 engine? I did not pay attention when dismantling the R16 figuring that my copy of Datsun Sports Car Handbook and Service Manual would address this but, alas, I don't see it anywhere in there.
Seems like I've read "somewhere" that they should face the right side, or camshaft side, of the engine.
Scott
con rod oiling holes
Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
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oilleak
Yeah, the oil hole faces the jackshaft or camshaft side.
This should answer most assembley questions.
http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/RSR_U20_Assembly.asp
This should answer most assembley questions.
http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/RSR_U20_Assembly.asp
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70MTroadster
Oil holes
Thanks Brian,
Never occured to me to look on Gordon's site. That solves the con rod issue. The next one that reared its ugly head is;
I followed the installation instructions of the rope rear oil seal to a T and yet after lowering in the crank and tightening down the main bearing caps to barely snug (5 lbs.?) I see that either side of my seal in the block is 1/16 inch or better BELOW the block surface, so off to Motor Power to get two new rope seals and start over. Don't want to mess up this critical part of the install.
I've got to wait for my clutch disc, pilot bushing, throw out bearing and head stud set from Dean to show up anyway so might as well regroup and do it right.
Scott
Never occured to me to look on Gordon's site. That solves the con rod issue. The next one that reared its ugly head is;
I followed the installation instructions of the rope rear oil seal to a T and yet after lowering in the crank and tightening down the main bearing caps to barely snug (5 lbs.?) I see that either side of my seal in the block is 1/16 inch or better BELOW the block surface, so off to Motor Power to get two new rope seals and start over. Don't want to mess up this critical part of the install.
I've got to wait for my clutch disc, pilot bushing, throw out bearing and head stud set from Dean to show up anyway so might as well regroup and do it right.
Scott
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oilleak
FWIW, I cut mine slightly long so as avoid that situation. I've also found that an aluminum steering wheel adaptor (I use one from a Bugeye Sprite I had) works well to press the seal down into its recess.
That's sort of ironic as I think about it given that the Bugeye doesn't have a rear main seal.
?
That's sort of ironic as I think about it given that the Bugeye doesn't have a rear main seal.
?