Thoughts on Nitto NT-01 track tires (not autoX)

[SLOroadster]

Anyone run the NT-01s? I'm thinking of picking a set up. They are cheap on ebay, and I'm looking to doing more track events this year than AutoX. I found a cheap group to run with.

Will

[RC240z]

I am interested in your opinion. I have wondered about Nitto tires as well. I have heard that they are a fair hard compound.

We run Hankooks and Toyos and have had good luck with them. I still think the RA 1's work really well (better than the Hankooks) but I have friends that disagree.

Also, Kuhmos are supposed to work well on a roadster according to Todd Mc Nall, he likes them the best on his car and he is fast in his roadster with them.

[Alvin]

I don't have experience with these on the roadster, but I've driven a Miata at 'Seca and Thunderhill with them. Excellent tire for the money, no need to shave them.
I prefer the RA-1(replaced by the R888), and ultimately the Hoosiers. The NT's don't have the heat capacity or grip of the RA-1, imho.
If you hold on though there are some new releases of '09 for DOT track tires
For cheap Toyos check these guys out there close to you:
http://www.aimtire.com/typ_main.asp?ObjectID=528" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


What group are running with? NCRC has a $179 track day at 'Seca April 13, sign up!

[SLOroadster]

Alvin,
Yeah, I'm looking into running with NCRC. You can't say no to the prices, $100 for a day at T-Hill, uh, yeah I'll take it. The Laguna day is on a Monday so I can't make it, perhaps some day. How many sessions do they ususally give?

Finding race tires in a 14" is getting really hard. I should be able to get some 205s on my Panasports, but not a chance on the Hayashi's. I am going to roll the rear fenders with a baseball bat, just need to find time to do it. That might buy me enough clearance to get the 205s on the Hayashi's. I had really good luck with the Kuhmo V710s last year, I got a ton of runs out of them. I'm leaning to just getting a set of R888s or RA-1s or perhaps a set of Hankook rr tires rather than an autoX compound, that way I can drive to the race on them and save some time.

The first Marina autoX is next weekend, and I don't have any car really ready to run, and I'm only luke warm about racing. I'm actually leaning more toward doing some bicycle racing this year, I have recently discovered that after 8 years of not racing or riding really, I'm still capable of pulling off a top 20 finish in a 90 rider field. Not sure how I did it, but I'll run with it. Besides, there are more fit women wearing spandex at a bike race than at an autoX

Will

[RC240z]

I agree with Alvin, although the Hoosiers are very fast they seem to expire quickly with only a few heat cycles. The RA-1's (and now the 888's) seem to be able to take a lot more heat cycles and hold their grip. In my roadster I have had my RA-1's get greasy and my Hankooks get greasy from overheating / over-working the tires, the RA-1's seem to give a lot more input when they start to go away which I like.

I run shaved RA-1's and I have a friend in a 510 running 888's.

If you can track down a set of RA-1's they are the best value in my mind, they will last a long time with many heat cycles. Keep in mind for road racing that higher initial temps in the tires are necessary (compared to Auto-x) for you to finish the session with good tires under the car, and that cold RA-1's will seem hard and slick at first until you get some heat into them. Once they are up to temp they will really stick well and you will finish your session strong, if you go out on lower temps you will overheat the tires and loose grip over the same timeframe.

Ron

[SLOroadster]

I just got an offer to run Sears Point on Feb. 14th for a price I can't say no to. I better get some tires. I found a place locally that has 205/55/14 RA1s for a decent price, so I will have to go talk with them.

Will

[RC240z]

Hi Will,

I suggest that you shave the RA-1's. The 888's are designed not to be shaved prior to use. Before you go lets talk about begining tire pressures and alignment so that you can have maximum fun and maximum tire life.

Ron

[SLOroadster]

I think I am going to go with the R888s, they are only $4 more per tire. I don't know that I really need to mess with the alignment, I think I could have used a little more with the V710s, and the R888s are looking for a little less than many race tires, I'm guessing my -1.75 degrees camber might be pretty close.

At this point, I'm still waiting to hear if I am indeed in, when I hear, I'll post.

Will

[Alvin]

From Aim's website:
"There are a multitude of questions being asked about the difference between the RA-1 and the new R-888.

Our company was the very first company to sell the RA-1 in the U.S.A.back in 1992. In fact we were the company that originally tested a prototype RA-1 that allowed TOYO the feedback necessary to commit the RA-1 to the USA market. Thus, we have a bit of experience with the RA-1 tire!

The greatest difference between the RA-1 and the R-888 is the tires construction. The R-888 is of an all new design both in tread and construction.

The most obvious difference being the tread pattern and molded tread depth. The R-888 grooves are molded to 6/32nds of an inch. Whereas the RA-1 grooves are staggard with the inner grooves at 8/32nds of an inch and the outer most grooves at 6/32nds. Additionally the R-888 has less and larger tread blocks to promote a quicker steering response and better mid-corner grip.

It should be noted that shaving a R-888 due to the wider grooves will not ceate a 'slick tire' as in the case of shaving a RA-1 to below 4/32nds. The R-888 when shaved to a low 2/32nds will not become a virtual slick tire but will continue to have wide rain grooves.

The wider grooves on the R-888 does enhance the wet weather performance of the tire and has proven superior in the wet than the RA-1.

To maximize the performance of the R-888 over the RA-1, on ALL race cares and especially Front wheel drive RACE cars and Spec Miata's: The camber, toe, caster tire pressure and even the driving technique must be modified.

The R-888 with the stiffer sidewall and softer undertread construction requires a bit less initial camber settings and higher pressure. Or you can run very well with your original camber settings and by simply increasing your STARTING pressure.
This will be hard for you to believe, but the higher HOT pressure WILL provide you with BETTER tire wear.
Yes, yes I know this doesn't make any sense whatsoever. But, just TRY IT! And you'll see what I mean.

By design the R-888 promotes higher levels of grip under braking and at mid-corner.

So, if you simply switch a RA-1 for a R-888 without changing your chassis set-up please don't expect your car to rotate in at mid-corner without taking camber out of the rear suspension settings.

Furthermore, a bit less camber in the front will aid turn-in and an increase in starting and operating pressure of the R-888 over the RA-1 will aid in overall traction.

At the higher pressure the R-888 is a VERY comfortable tire to drive quickly. Low pressures will cause an unstable feeling. Keep this in mind. "

[SLOroadster]

Alvin,
I read this the other night, since I have no rear camber to remove, I can't worry about it now can I. The track day isn't a sure thing yet, but perhaps 80% sure at this time. If it rains, I'm not going anywhere near the track. When I know that I am in for sure, I'll let everyone know.

Will

[RC240z]

Will, the 888's should work well on your car as the requirement for less camber (front and rear) would be beneficial to the lack of adjustement on your roadster. The RA-1's would like to see 3 degrees of negative camber in the front if you could get it into your car. 1.75 which is a lot for a roadster should work pretty well with the 888's I suspect.

The higher temps are what we have found as well. Less squirming of the tread blocks as they get up to temp.

Ron