SR20DE Versions & Transmissions - Potential Problems

[jhusjr]

Even though I've got 2 U20's to work with, I'm still leaning towards attempting an SR20 swap in my 68 2000 for parts availability and the elimination of carbuerators, so here are some questions that hopefully someone can lend me their expertise on.

1. Can a newer SR20DE from a FWD drive car (i.e. early 2000's Sentra) still be mated with an S13-15 transmission? Reason being that it seems that these engines are more readily available, cheaper, and are already set up without a turbo. Even though I've obviously seen the SR20DET fit into a roadster, I'm not sure I want to go that crazy. I've saw on ebay that there are S13 transmissions for sale stand-alone.

2. Does anyone know the differences between the older silvia motors and these FWD sentra motors? The biggest thing I can see is the different position of the distributor. The DET engines have theirs on the sides, with the sentras having theirs in the back.

3. Can you still run the stock roadster brake lines around the back of the SR20?

4. Is there any other problems I haven't mentioned that prevent use of a newer SR20 motor?

Thanks for the help guys.

[SR311DET]

James,

There are a list of problems that you will run into and you have hit the nail on the head with the distributor being in the way. That will not fit (fit where the engine should sit with out modifying the fire wall or front cross member extensively.) The oil pan is different also as well as the intake manifold as it is facing the wrong direction. The oil filter position is much different also. There are many other packaging headaches with trying to do this as you will save your self time and money if you just buy the right package to begin with. You will make the engine swap from hard to very very hard and frustrating.

You can run the stock brake lines on the roadster but you will run into some frustration positioning the engine as far back as possible. The stock brake lines are very complicated when they don't need to be. If you are capable of doing the SR20 swap then I would recommend sitting down and simplifying the brake lines. It really no that bad. And looks so clean. Probably one of the nicest things you can do to a roadster engine compartment in my opinion.

I currently doing a SR20DET swap in my car and and it is a lot of work, but you have to remember that they are very reliable and modern engines. Run very smooth, Great MPG, don't stink out the tail pipe, and make good reeving power.

I'm including a link on ebay that is from a importer that I bought a engine from good price and
warranty. Item number: 150305057863

Look under engine swaps and you will see a perfect example of a solid driver SR20DE car named "Bob" as I was lucky enough in help build and able to drive. It worked very well and changed my mind towards roadsters forever.

Hope I was some help answering some questions

Eric Straw
1969 Datsun Roadster SR20DET

[jhusjr]

-Eric


Thanks for the heads up. Definetely answers my questions. I checked out the seller and added him to my ebay list for future use. If I had the money to drop right now, I'd put a bid in right now...

Unfortuneately I have to wait for my fiancee to begin working in the spring.

Thanks again. If you have some free time, I'd love to hear more about the route you used to simplify the brake lines. You're right, they do look ridiculously complicated stock.

[ppeters914]

If you have some free time, I'd love to hear more about the route you used to simplify the brake lines. You're right, they do look ridiculously complicated stock.

Hey, hey...that's part of the charm.

[SR311DET]

You can call it what ever you want.

The included picture is from the build I helped Michael Spreadbury called Bob. In this photo shows a good view of what I'm talking about. Notice that the brake line was not built as the small tee down by the frame rail is where is goes to. It matched up at the clutch line and then proceeded over to the caliper. It was out of plain sight after the engine was in. to be able to do this you will need to move the brake lines from the passenger side on the frame to the driver side. This will give you all brand new lines throughout the entire car. Michael is very skilled at building brake lines.

The other photo is the same engine compartment after a detail and repaint in the garage.

Hope this shows what you are looking for.

[ppeters914]

I get a sense of what you/Michael are doing. Hard to tell what's happening at the new T and how it all works on the passenger side.

Is that an after market clutch master cylinder? Looks shorter and it doesn't have the big boss where the line screws in.

[SR311DET]

Pete,

As far as the T it is a mid 80s Toyota pickup brake line T that is small and easy to use. One line going in and two going out. The line going in is the from the brake master front brake line. The two going out are going directly to the clips and attach to the flex lines for the front brake calipers. The rear line is then moved to the driver side on the frame as we don't have to cross the firewall then. By doing this you dis guard all of the cross over lines and distribution block.

The clutch master is a Datsun 510 or 610 as I recall Nabco brand. It does have the boss that you speak of but is closer to the firewall. That is all.

Eric

[spriso]

As Eric stated, the FWD engine won't easily work, especially when there are cheap, properly packaged RWD engines available for so cheap. I have discussed FWD versions of the SR engine in this forum before-- do a search and you will see several posts on this subject.

Is that an after market clutch master cylinder? Looks shorter and it doesn't have the big boss where the line screws in.
I get a sense of what you/Michael are doing. Hard to tell what's happening at the new T and how it all works on the passenger side.

Is that an after market clutch master cylinder? Looks shorter and it doesn't have the big boss where the line screws in.

The master cylinder in Bob is a B-210 master. It was NOS and since we were building new lines anyway, I used it.

We normally use a 510 or 610 clutch master cylinder as they are cheap, easy to find, and are a great fit for the roadster.

Michael
spriso motorsports

[dbrick]

Mike,is it the photo, or did you roll the pinch welded sections around the trans tunnel and firewall 90 degrees over so they lay flat? It looks great, and less places for dirt and rust.

[spriso]

Dave wrote:

did you roll the pinch welded sections around the trans tunnel and firewall 90 degrees over so they lay flat?

Dave,

Yes, we massage those edges to provide just a little extra clearance on the SR swaps. It provides just the clearance that we need for the bell housing...

Michael
spriso motorsports

[dbrick]

Mike,
For functional reason or not , added to the lack of all those brake lines it looks really clean. Another thing on the list for me when the engine comes out.

[GoldHawg]

Pete,

As far as the T it is a mid 80s Toyota pickup brake line T that is small and easy to use. One line going in and two going out. The line going in is the from the brake master front brake line. The two going out are going directly to the clips and attach to the flex lines for the front brake calipers. The rear line is then moved to the driver side on the frame as we don't have to cross the firewall then. By doing this you dis guard all of the cross over lines and distribution block.

The clutch master is a Datsun 510 or 610 as I recall Nabco brand. It does have the boss that you speak of but is closer to the firewall. That is all.

Eric

Eric--
This is great info, thx for posting. ? for you. How do you eliminate the functionality of the distribution box? Is there no proportioning or distribution valve function needed w/roadsters? If so, why is there a distribution box on the car in the 1st place? Also, doesn't the distribution box have the brake light signal on it? If so, do you no longer get a light indicating a brake problem?
Forgive me in advance if these issues are not applicable to roadsters (I don't currently have one but will in the future).

Thx!

[readymix]

Pete,

As far as the T it is a mid 80s Toyota pickup brake line T that is small and easy to use. One line going in and two going out. The line going in is the from the brake master front brake line. The two going out are going directly to the clips and attach to the flex lines for the front brake calipers. The rear line is then moved to the driver side on the frame as we don't have to cross the firewall then. By doing this you dis guard all of the cross over lines and distribution block.

The clutch master is a Datsun 510 or 610 as I recall Nabco brand. It does have the boss that you speak of but is closer to the firewall. That is all.

Eric

Eric--
This is great info, thx for posting. ? for you. How do you eliminate the functionality of the distribution box? Is there no proportioning or distribution valve function needed w/roadsters? If so, why is there a distribution box on the car in the 1st place? Also, doesn't the distribution box have the brake light signal on it? If so, do you no longer get a light indicating a brake problem?
Forgive me in advance if these issues are not applicable to roadsters (I don't currently have one but will in the future).

Thx!

EDIT: I need coffee, forget what I just said.

[dbrick]

IIRC, the whole bundle of snakes for the brake block is for the warning light only. There is no proportioning function in the block. Datsun regulated brake bias by offering various sizes rear wheel cylinders. On a RH Drive car, the master is right there, so I assume less mess.

[Lowdown]

Pete,

As far as the T it is a mid 80s Toyota pickup brake line T

Any Chance of a part number or a specific year model?

Thanks,

jEFF