Did a drive Saturday up Chinook Pass (Hwy 410) all the way to the top, 5k plus feet. The white one ran great. The idle was a bit rough up there and get this, the trunk lid wouldn't latch after our picnic at the top of the pass. Latched fine when we got home. Go figure. We drove 150 miles plus without a problem. Still think she's a bit rich.
Went to Pacific Raceways in Auburn , WA on Sunday and watched Guy Selle race. Even helped out a bit. I'm so screwed. I'm thinking I can do that.
Guy told me a racer was out Saturday in a 67 Fairlady 1600 and ran out of gas on the last lap.
He also said that if I want to race? The Fairlady is a bit fragile to start with. Well......
I'm so screwed. I can't believe I'm even thinking about racing.
Anyway, those pics I told you I would supply.....Didn't happen.....I was to busy driving.
Please......somebody tell me to forget this stupidity!!!!!!!!!!
Jay
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Stop, stop stop, these cars are no fun at all. But don't worry, they aren't habit forming. Did I sound convincing?
My only suggestion, if you intend to race, build or buy a race car, not streetlegal. Makes it a dedicated track car, less comprimises.
Just a note, generally speaking, unless you need the octane for pinging/detonation, you will make a bit less power on 100 octane than on 89 or 92. The lead is a good thing though. High octane fuel is less volitile, to reduce detonation, and produces a bit less energy than lower octane.
They are alot more fun when they are moving, aren't they?
Dave Brisco
Take my advice, I'm not using it"
66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
1962 Thompson Sea Lancer, possible money pit
I don't have a pic, but if you go to the online manuals, you can download the owner's manual. On page 13 of the 68 manual, it shows the levers - hot/cold on left, out/in in the center, and room/def on the right.
Hope that helps!
Oh, on the grill support, you don't need to pull the hood. Just unbolt the grill, close the hood and pull it out from the front. Some satin black paint with a brush will work fine.
Pulled the interior and properly fit the seats. Sealed all the other holes and there were more than a few. Did a bit of electrical as well. Some really crapy repairs. Everthing works as it should.
I'll have plenty of time to take care of that grill mount. On the way home my left rear brake came apart. Pads came loose of the shoes. Made some god awful noise. In addition the left wheel brake clylinder sprung a leak and I had fluid everywhere. Put her back together and decided to limp her home on the front brakes. Got a couple of miles along, went to downshift and the cluth pedal hit the floor.
Oh well. Now I have a reason to redo the hydraulics as well as my brakes. Any suggestions on cylinder kits and rear pads??????
Thanks for the heater info Sid, and thankyou to Linda, they are and yes the lugs and washers are the right ones.
I think she may be down for awhile this time. At least winter is almost here.
Jay
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On the brakes, check with Napa. They had rebuild kits available for cheap, and if they don't have the shoes, they can get yours relined. Do both rears at the same time, and while you are at it, it is a good time to replace the rear flex hose if it is looking suspect.