Hardtop Project

Post by **spl310** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:27 am

Neat hardtop Bill! The downside is that it seals on the paint. The factory tops sealed on the cowl lip around the car which is nice. One day I will take pics of my tops - when it is warmer and I have the time to clean them up!

todd lorber · Post by **todd lorber** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 12:25 pm

I owned a hardtop for about a week and ended up trading it for a set of wheels. I agree with some of the comments above-it was like driving inside of a bass drum, and even though it had a thick rubber gasket, it would scuff up the paint on my car.

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:58 pm

All,
I'll post pics this Saturday after picking it up.
-Smooth gloss to sort of match my current body paint is the goal.

-I love the look of the single window and I'm sure filling in the quarter windows is an option but that would create a blind spot for sure.

-I have some 3M invisible clear bra left over from my Z33 so I plan on laying a strip where the top meets the paint.

-On the "tops" subject has anyone seen pics of Ken Pletcher's "bikini" hardtop?

ole skool · Post by **ole skool** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:13 pm

Hey Alvin and folks, I have a the three window hardtop like you are getting on my 66 that we did the frame-off on, and can give you a run down on the weak spots and what we did to make the top work really well (also tips on new window seals, etc.)

Also, I run a factory lightweight top on the race car that is being built and it is in the body shop right now. I will try to take some work in progress pictures as they move onto the hardtop.

Interesting thing is the 3 window runs true glass windows, and the factory unit uses an acrylic window with an ever so light bend in it.

If anyone has either one of the hardtop types laying around and would like to unload it, let me know via PM. I did some significant work and added a nice sound deadening headliner to the red one and it really snugs the car up...and is dramatically more quiet than the soft top or top down.

Wade

ole skool · Post by **ole skool** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:14 pm

Here is a pic of the two types on the two cars for kicks and giggles:

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/27 ... 8051uuKRPY

todd lorber · Post by **todd lorber** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:20 pm

IMHO those 6's on the yellow one are a tad small

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:33 am

A few pics of what I am working with, Wade please help!

Latches are in great condition

I have no idea where this mounts:

This is all I have for rear top mounts:
[url=http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/1179322414058696712Qoxdhf]

ole skool · Post by **ole skool** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 11:44 am

Hey Alvin, here are a couple of things:

1.) Chrome molding around the edge is an easy fix. I replaced mine with a chromoed fender mold from a local body shop supplky store. Just keep the old one when you remove it for painting the top to get a profile match on it. It is a simple friction grab setup and a soft shop towel to protect the finish and a light tap with a rubber mallet will put the mew one on clean and neat.

2.) Hardtop to body molding, I used JC Whitney part #: ZX132568R

3.) Door window seals sealing door glass to hardtop, JC Whitney part#: ZX132561U

4.) Windows seals use VW window seals, cut to fit, JC Whitney Part #: ZX148396Y (install warm, and heat tight corners slightly to make sharp bends on side windows)

5.) Your top mounts in the back should attach to the turnbuckle mount for your soft top pivot as shown in your last picture. Mine has a slightly different setup with an "L" bracket and a hook and loop that attach to the turnbuckle. If you cannot get yours to work, I can machine you a set off of mine as the L bracket attaches to the same 2 holes that your setup does.

Hope this helps. Also, I am going to be out in SoCal February 18, 19, and 20. I am going to try and meet some vendors, and any roadster folks I can. PM me if there is any interest.

ole skool · Post by **ole skool** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 11:47 am

JC Whitney Part # for the chrome modling: ZX292761

Wade

Post by **nats226ny** » Fri Feb 01, 2008 2:08 pm

I would have to agree about the 1 window smooth top.......my 67.5 had one and I loved the look.

Gary

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:51 pm

Thanks to Wade for all the great tips/info!
I tried the top on today and it clears the rolllbar! I like the way it looks here are some pics:

I removed all the weatherstripping/windows:

Questions:
1) I still don't see how this hardtop tab will connect to my existing mount:

2) Does the rear lip mount behind or on the metal teardrop?

3)Do I paint the top before I do the weatherstripping/interior finishing?

Post by **spl310** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:03 pm

I would do the interior first, then the exterior, then the windows. For the tabs in the rear to work, you need some eye bolts and nuts.

datsunrides · Post by **datsunrides** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:11 pm

It does look good. For mounting the rear bracket, maybe a eyebolt would work? Place the eye over the adjuster and hold on with a fender washer and nut and have the threaded end go thru the bracket and jam nut it on there. I would think it would be best to finish the inside first then do the outside and finally the weatherstriping last. It looks like that top is notched to go around the teardrops?

Mark

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:40 pm

Got it, thanks guys!
I guess I'll have to be extra careful not to get overspray on the interior.
The eye bolt idea sounds good! Is that how they did it from the factory?

Post by **spl310** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:47 pm

How are you going to finish the interior? Paint? Glue in headliner material? I plan headliner material in my tops - the OEM stuff is this horrible gray terry cloth - like the cheap beach towels that you find in tourist traps. I will likely use a nicer gray paded headliner material.

On how the OEM did it, I would suspect that with that design top, they originally did use eyebolts...