SR20det on its way.

duckwalk · Post by **duckwalk** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:12 am

Well I did it I ordered A sr20det(s13) motor swap for SRL it should be here in A day or two. I still have A few questions I need answered (wiring). But I think I will figure it out. I will keep you posted.

spriso · Post by **spriso** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:54 am

Congrats! You are on your way to a very exciting project! Lots of work, but well worth it in the end.

Feel free to ask your questions here, and I will do what I can to help you get them answered!

Michael Spreadbury
spriso motorsports

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 2:49 pm

post pics

Top mount the turbo and make a scoop in the hood above the turbo so it peeks out!

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:57 pm

Alvin wrote:post pics
Top mount the turbo and make a scoop in the hood above the turbo so it peeks out!

You frighten me, Alvin...

duckwalk · Post by **duckwalk** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:48 pm

I got my motor today and something is missing the ign module. Does anybody know what the vacuume sensor thats on the same bracket as the ign mod ?

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 9:14 am

duckwalk wrote:I got my motor today and something is missing the ign module. Does anybody know what the vacuume sensor thats on the same bracket as the ign mod ?

You don't need it. The vacuum piece that is.

duckwalk · Post by **duckwalk** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:13 pm

Thanks for the info. Well I sat the motor in the engine bay and wow thats is A tight fit. With a little more triming I will be ready to make mounts.A top mount turbo manifold is on its way. I am looking at t3&t4 turbos but the all different specs. I not sure what turbo to buy ?

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:58 pm

duckwalk wrote:I am looking at t3&t4 turbos but the all different specs. I not sure what turbo to buy ?

If you are going to run a T3/4 you'll need to upgrade the injectors ($500), MAF ($150), and get an ECU ROM tune ($600). Is it worth the extra expense to you? What is you HP goal?

duckwalk · Post by **duckwalk** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 3:22 pm

Dave were you able to clock your turbo so that everthing was in the right place? Are you making that HP with stock parts, like the maf,ecu,injectors,turbo? And what intercooler do you have? I cant find one small enough.

datsunrides · Post by **datsunrides** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:25 pm

I have a custom built intercooler on order that should fit on the shelf in front of the radiator and have the inlet/outlet fit in the space between the radiator and steering box. It will require the radiator shroud mounting flange to be cut but no other cutting required. I will post up pics when I get it. Should be next week, I hope. I will pass on the company that did it should everything work out. FYI, I'm paying $450 for it.

Mark

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 9:42 pm

duckwalk wrote:Dave were you able to clock your turbo so that everthing was in the right place?

Yes. I had the stock T25 rebuilt. When it came back from the shop I was easily able to clock it. Used turbos are VERY hard to clock as the turbine housing cooks itself to the center housing and it can be a real bear to turn. I let the turbo shop handle breaking it free.

duckwalk wrote:Are you making that HP with stock parts, like the maf,ecu,injectors,turbo?

Yes. That was with my stock T25 at 12 pounds of boost. I'm making maybe 10 more Hp now with the T28. That's the upper limit of what the MAF and injectors can handle. To take advantage of the 75 to 80 HP more that the T28 has left to deliver, I would need to upgrade all those things I listed out for you.

duckwalk wrote:And what intercooler do you have? I cant find one small enough.

Forge Motorsports Type 05. Drops right on that shelf in front of the radiator that Mark is talking about. No cutting other than the radiator side flanges.: http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content. ... MINT104UNI

datsunrides · Post by **datsunrides** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 11:28 pm

Oh yea, I forgot the SR's are crossflow. Mine is for a U20 (non crossflow) You should use the type Dave has. Proven performance and fitment!

Mark

nomadtrash · Post by **nomadtrash** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 12:13 pm

I purchased a Bikirom for my Nissan computer. It is a daughterboard that is user programmable. You can install the base tune from the engine you are running and then tweak it based on your wide band oxygen sensor readings. If I had it to do over again I would choose a Calum daughterboard instead of Biki. The Calum is the same type of daughterboard but it is installed by Calum instead of you having to solder it yourself. Calum has wonderful customer service and his products are top notch. I beleive that he can pre-program your computer for a general baseline. There are tunes available online that you can load yourself if you like. The Biki offers many more features than the Calum including datalogging, wideband imput, programmable switches, boost controllers, etc... If you don't need all that then I suggest Calum. I beleive they are in the $300-$400 range for a Calum ECU. You just send in your stock ECU and he sends it back ready to go with a USB port to plug in your laptop. It still hooks up to your factory wiring harness and sensors because it is still the factory Nissan ECU.

I am using an Infinity Q45 MAF on my car. It is much cheaper than the popular Z32 MAF. The Q45 MAF is larger diameter at 90mm vs the Z32 at 80mm. The way the electronics work the Q45 (numbered P60) will only support up to 500 horsepower. The Z32 MAF will support more. If you don't plan on more than 500 hp then I would suggest the P60. They can be found on EBAY for $50 if you look for long enough. The P60 also only has three wires like the stock SR20DET so it is easy adapt. The Z32 has 5 wires and requires some figuring out to make it work.

Typically a fuel injector on a 4 cylinder will support 100 less horsepower than it's cc/min rating. The SR20DE and KA24DE came with red top 275cc injectors. They will max out around 175 hp. The SR20DET came with purple top 370cc injectors that top out around 270hp. I ground the nozzles off my red top injectors and flow matched them at 680cc. It was much cheaper than buying different injectors. There are several factory injectors that will work including Subaru WRX 450cc and RX7 550cc. You can also send your factory purples or red tops to deatchworks and have them professionally cleaned and flowed to whatever rate you want them.

Choosing a turbo can be very tricky. There are books on the subject that sow you how to read the turbo maps and choose housing ARs and turbine sizes. Luckily, the SR20DET is very popular with the ricer crowd to put in their 240sx drift cars.
Sites like NICO http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeromain
and Freshalloy http://forums2.freshalloy.com/
have lots of information about what parts work well together.

A T25, T28, T3, T3/T4, and a T4 may all make 12 psi boost. The T25 will spool up to 12 psi much faster than the T4. You may reach full boost by 2500 rpms with the T25. The T4 may not reach full boost till 7000 rpms. The T25 has very much exhaust restriction where the T4 has much less. Therefore, a T4 will have more horsepower at 12 psi than the T25. If you replace a T25 that is set at 12 psi with a T28 that is set at 12 psi you will see an increase in power similar to what Dave saw. You will also see an increase in lag where you reach full boost higher in the rpm range.

My recommendation is to search through NICO and other sites. Find someone with a similar motor that is in the power range you want and then copy their setup.

duckwalk · Post by **duckwalk** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:49 pm

Thank you everybody for the info. I will be back to work on the car this weekend. Its now time to mock up mounts. I am going to post some pics soon for all to see. Thanks again Ken

Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

SR20det on its way.

SR20det on its way.

ok I got my motor

Re: ok I got my motor