Sora Blue

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MTyler

Sora Blue

Post by MTyler »

I've pretty much decided that I'm going to return my 1600 to the Sora Blue that it wore when it rolled off the boat into Long Beach. I looked at the paint chip page on the site which gives the color code 563. I have a funny feeling i'll need more than this for the counter man at the paint shop. He's very knowledgeable ahd helpful, but I've had no luck with old datsun cilor codes before. Anyone respray with Sora Blue? What codes/interchange #s did you use?
Thanks
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S Allen
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RE:Sora Blue

Post by S Allen »

Ralleye lists PPG# 13165 which should get your guy close. I should ask Dan if I can post that info on the main web site or in the tech wiki. Sora blue is a sweet looking color.

Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
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MTyler

Post by MTyler »

The ppg # is a good place to start, thanks. I'll most likely be painting the car with a 2k single stage urethane. Nason from Dupont is used a lot around here, is relatively inepensive, and I had decent luck with it on my 320. I'm guessing it will take 2+ quarts. An awkward amount to buy, 3 quarts may cost as much as a Gallon. Being blue, it shouldn't be too pricey. Some of these bright reds and yellows.... Yike$.
autoquick

Re: Sora Blue

Post by autoquick »

I'm in need of some help. I would like to paint my '65 1500 in it original color Sora Blue PPG# 13165. However, when I went to the paint shop and ordered just one qt. the color they gave me doesn't even look like the Sora Blue. I expected.
Of course the counter help did seem to have been sampling the vapors a little too much.

So I'm stuck finding a source of this elusive color.
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S Allen
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Re: Sora Blue

Post by S Allen »

The problem is what it looks like in the can in liquid form and what it looks like sprayed on and dry can be deceiving. What you really need to do is find a piece you can spray to test and check the color. An old fender or a hood would be good. That way you will know exactly what the end product will look like. You may have the right stuff. Light also plays an important role in what a color looks like.

Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
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datsunrides
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Re:

Post by datsunrides »

MTyler wrote:The ppg # is a good place to start, thanks. I'll most likely be painting the car with a 2k single stage urethane. Nason from Dupont is used a lot around here, is relatively inepensive, and I had decent luck with it on my 320. I'm guessing it will take 2+ quarts. An awkward amount to buy, 3 quarts may cost as much as a Gallon. Being blue, it shouldn't be too pricey. Some of these bright reds and yellows.... Yike$.
How much are you repainting? It took me a gallon when I did mine, but that was basically the whole tub minus the interior and trunk. It probably would have gone over a gallon if I had done those too. You are right on with the reds and yellows. Those are some expensive primary colors.
S Allen wrote:The problem is what it looks like in the can in liquid form and what it looks like sprayed on and dry can be deceiving. What you really need to do is find a piece you can spray to test and check the color. An old fender or a hood would be good. That way you will know exactly what the end product will look like. You may have the right stuff. Light also plays an important role in what a color looks like.

Steve
To add to what Steve said, the color of the primer and/or base color wil have an effect on the end result, so if you are picky on how you wish the color to look, spray the primer/base color on your test panel just as you would your car. It can make a big difference.

Mark
1966 Roadster
Turbo / EFI U20 (T25 w/ SDS EMU.)
MTyler

Re: Sora Blue

Post by MTyler »

So I imagine I'll be buying a half-pint or so for a test. I'm not trying to match an adjacent panel, so there's some wiggle room.

Sora Blue is a bit of an odd color. It has a bit of a green note to it, so it's not like an MG powder blue. I'll be painting the whole exterior, door jambs, inside trunk lid and hood, but not the inside of the tub.
autoquick

Re: Sora Blue

Post by autoquick »

S Allen wrote:The problem is what it looks like in the can in liquid form and what it looks like sprayed on and dry can be deceiving. What you really need to do is find a piece you can spray to test and check the color. An old fender or a hood would be good. That way you will know exactly what the end product will look like. You may have the right stuff. Light also plays an important role in what a color looks like.

Steve
I did a test spray when I looked at the color. Mainly I couldn't believe that it was so dark. I have some test sheet metal for testing and it's like very dark. More of a medium blue, of closer to Harley's sinister blue which is the color of my bike.
datsunrides wrote:How much are you repainting?
I'm just painting the interior this time. I finished installing aluminum floorboards and taken everything else to bare metal. Applied a rust preventative, primered the area in light grey and was hoping to get the final painting done.
The paint shop I went to was a Sherwood Williams that crossed the PPG number into their color database. Then mixed the paint in the back. This shop didn't have any paint chip books and their computer didn't go back past 1980 for factory car colors. I really didn't expect such a poor match as this.
What I wondering is where else to find proper paint shop. If I was in NJ, I could find a retail shops all over the place. "Might be because of the chemicals that make up NJ" :D
But in GA, finding a shop that sells to the public is next to impossible. And a shop that paints cars will only want to paint the car for me!
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dbrick
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Re: Sora Blue

Post by dbrick »

Local NAPA store should be able to order it. They sell Martin Senyor (sp.) paint.

Dave Brisco

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