Removing air pump

[Guest]

Ok Guys, I exchanged ideas with Will, Sid, and Steve regarding the option of removing the air pump....and switching the alternator to that position......I know that you guys told me briefly how to eliminate the air pump system, but I need a " stupid-proof" recap on what I need to change, plug, alter, or eliminate in order for my engine to function properly without "side effects".

Also, the mount for the pump, if I put the alternator there, is there a way to do it without having to get new water pump, or pulleys, or any of the hardware already there?


Jorge

[impinhigh]

Hey Jorge,

If you want to go the "Cadillac" route to plug the air injection ports I can give you a lead. I work in metal fabrication and I had a custom plug made with the correct thread and pitch. It also extends down inside the port to eliminate the "bird chirp" that will occur if you just plug the top portion of the port. The are made of stainless with a domed shaped head and a hex drive. I think he wants 30.00 for a set of 4. If you or anyone else would like a set let me know. I think he ran 15.
matt@vander-bend.com

As for the alternator mounting... I'm just about to reconfigure mine so, keep good notes... As far as I know.. you do not need to change the WP or pulley, you do need to correctly adjust the location of the alternator pulley so it's in line with the other pulleys. This is done with spacers or removing material from the former air pump mounting bracket.

good luck man!

[GrnMtnRoadster]

After looking for standard bolts to cut down as plugs, I ran across what looks like the perfect solution. Generic M10 oil pan drain plugs. I don't recall the threads per inch. With a hex drive on top of the pan head they look very clean and the length and tapered end seem to be a near exact match to the injector body.

I must admit that I haven't had the engine running since placing the plugs. The only issue was getting 4 plugs in the bulk tray at the local hardware store. I did have to resort to paying extra to get one of the plugs. It had a magnet glued to the end to collect metal in its intended application. Be sure to remove that unless you want a magnet bouncing around in your cyilder head.

[SLOroadster]

Ok, here is what I did. The air injection ports are tapped with a pipe thread, so you should be able to find the correct hex plugs at the local hardware store. To eliminate the chirp, I took a set of stainless bolts that were the correct size to fit into the holes, you will have to grind the heads of the bolts down to fit into the head. Once you have the heads ground down, you can taper the bottom of the bolts to fit flush with the inside of the exhaust port. After you have the bolts in the head, screw the hex head plugs down on top of the bolts and you will be set. When you move the alternator you will want to get a '66 mount and bolt it in where the smog mount is. Your fan belt will be different as well. I have seen cars with bolts run into the smog ports, but I don't think it looks as clean as my route.

good luck,

Will

[spl310]

I did a similar trick on a smog motor I had, but I did not use bolts under the plugs. Rather, I used allen head cap screws. They fit in the holes nicely without grinding. You can get stainless or carbon steel. I don't think it is critical to grind the bottoms to be flush, but it would help in the flow department.

I agree on the alternator mount. If you have a, you can do a full conversion - get rid of the water pump spacer, use the early water pump, pulley and fan, and change the lower pulley to the early style as well. If you have a 2000, you should use the triange from the smog pump and get spacers and longer bolts to mount it - that will prevent stress on the bolt which could shear...