Questions RE various things

[Guest]

Hello Fellow Roadster lovers!

I you have been following my numerous inquiries, you'll know that I am mechanically quite finished with the restoration/rebuilding of my '68 1600. I already heard it roar for the first time and it was long-awaited music to my ears. Now I'm on the many...and ah! so important!...details. I am also getting the body ready for painting within the next months or two (i am studying for the California BAR exam i'll take in February!). So I have a few questions...answer those u can!

What placement filters are there for the emissions pump?

are there replacements for the clutch slave's hose? and the spring that goes from it to the fork?

are there replacements for the oil gauge hose?


that's it for now....thanks for your cooperation!

[spl310]

I cannot help with the emissions parts questions.

The clutch hoses are available. I have a NOS one here that I could part with.

I don't have a spring - a hardware store spring would work.

You can have the oil pressure gauge hose rebuilt by a hydraulic hose supplier - check your yellow pages.

[Guest]

Hey Sid....if you are willing, just tell me how much for that clutch hose. As to the oil pressure hose, I have the old one with fittings and spring...do I take it for them to redo it, or will they build a completely new one?

Jorge

[S Allen]

Jorge,

Why don't you just desmog the car? You could save the smog stuff in case the state decides to change the law again but desmog and forget the pump. It will run a lot better. My two cents anyway!

Steve

[SLOroadster]

I agree with Steve on the desmogging of your car. It makes life much better. Your car will run smoother, cooler and have a little more power (less drag from driving the smog pump.) If you do this, you will have to recurve the distributor, and plug the air injection holes in the head. This is easy, all you have to do is get some bolts (I used stainless ones) cut them so they just fill the hole but don't pertrude into the exhaust flow (I ground an angle into mine so they were flush with the port) and then ground the heads down so they would just fit into the hole. I got some plugs with a hex head and screwed them down to hide the bolts and make a clean fill of the holes. If you can make it up for the run Sunday, I will show you what I did.

Will

[Guest]

Steve & Will:

I actually rather do what you both suggest.....now, if I do it, since my distributor was recurved when I rebuilt it, I just have to plug the injection holes? Also, if I get rid of it, is it difficult to move the alternator to where the pump goes? i mean in terms of the placement of all wires and harness........thanks to you both, and I am gonna do my best and go to the run.


Jorge

[SLOroadster]

You will have to find a alt mount from a nonsmog car otherwise you will have to come up with a spacer that will work. You will also have to run the wires around to it. My set up works, but its not that clean. I used the smog pump bracket and had a small disaster on my trip up to Shasta (and another on the way back, long story that I don't care to admit to). A 1600 might be a little different but the 2 ltr mount is sort of a pain to set up. Your alt. will be much happier where it belongs rather than under the headers (way to hot). Bring a digital camera if you have one.

See ya Sunday,
Will

[Guest]

But Will.....my alternator IS under the manifold. It was there when I got the car, and the smog pump was on the distributor's side! That's why I assumed that the alt. was in a hot place and should be moved to where the pump is (dist. side). Does that mean that the previous owner had them in the wrong sides? If you give me an email, I can send you a pic of the setting right now.

Jorge

[SLOroadster]

Jorge,
Your car is that way from the factory. The early cars (67.5 and earlier) all had the alternator where the smog pump is. If you swap over your alternator will be much happier. It is in a bad place because it gets too hot from the headers and it will get swamped if a radiator hose breaks. It takes some time to wire the alternator in on the other side.

Will

[spl310]

Jorge,

I don't know what I was thinking. If you are going to have the oil pressure hose rebuilt, have the clutch hose done as well. They need the old hoses as they reuse the ends. You may have to "encourage" them to reuse the spring on the oil pressure hose, but it is a good idea to have it on there.

On the moving of the alternator, I am told that some 68's have the wiring doubled back inside the harness, so you won't have to rewire the unit. Just remove the tape and pull the wires to where they belong. For a good explaination of how to get the alternator mounted properly, check Brian Holland's website. He is on the forum and may chime in....

[Guest]

Will: I get it now! I will do the swap then, and look for the wires as Sid mentions. Now, you were talking previously about the alt. being a pain in the a** to secure it to the mount on the distributor's side.......what should I do so I do it right?

Sid: I was about to inquire about the clutch hose, but unfortunately I don't have the old clutch slave hose. The hose and the spring that hooks to the fork were both missing when I got the car. I don't know if they can make it from "scratch" though (???)

[SLOroadster]

Jorge,
You will have to come up with a heavy duty spacer to get the alignment right. You might have to space the front plate out from the timing cover (I don't know on a 1600) to get the fan belt to align correctly. Its not that hard, its just a pain because it requires a little fiddling with it. I'll show you tomorrow if you make it up here.

see ya,

Will

[spl310]

Jorge,

Send me an e-mail off list and I will see what I can come up with on the clutch hose. On moving the alternator, I am not sure if you need spacers to move it as is. If you can find all of the associated parts (alternator, mount, water pump, pulley, crank pulley, etc, off of an early car, that is the best way to go. It moves the alternator back and supports it front and rear - a superior way to mount an alternator in my opinion. I have a couple of those alternators lying about, but no mount. There was one on Ebay iirc. The lower pulley should not be tough (I have one, but it may be spoken for) nor should the upper. You may be able to keep your existing water pump and pulley - I have not researched that - with the early crank pulley - but you will have to remove the water pump spacer.