SR20DET rear sump oil pan

Wilbur · Post by **Wilbur** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:48 pm

Hi to all.
Although I am not working on a Datsun roadster, I frequent this forum as well as others where the SR20DET motor is discussed. I am installing an SR20DET S13 motor into my 72 MGB, and am running into the front oil sump / front cross member interference issue that has been discussed here. My solution is to design a two piece rear sump pan and a new oil pickup tube to replace the existing pan. I anticipate a pan with increased capacity as well as a finned bottom surface for improved heat transfer. I am just started on the design (Solidworks CAD model), and have a friend with a CNC mill to machine the parts when it's designed. I just thought I'd ask a couple questions on this site:
1. Would there would be any interest in such an item if it works (and is not cost prohibitive)?
2. My second question is more immediate- what is the distance from the back of the engine (transmission mounting surface) to the crossmember on the Datsun roadsters? On the MGB it's 14.5 inches, and since the dip stick is at 13 inches, I can fit the new sump in without having to move the dipstick. If that works for the Datsun, I could wind up with a part that will work for both our cars.
I will keep you posted on progress; Thanks for letting me participate!
Wilbur

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Fri Mar 02, 2007 1:04 am

1) YES!
2)I can have a measurement by tomorrow
3) What will ground clearance be like compared to the stock SR20 pan? THe pan sits really low when installed on a Datsun roadster.

4) The only SR20DET-MGB I've seen is in Japan...they aren't body-on- frame like Datsuns so how is the install?
Show us pictures

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri Mar 02, 2007 12:13 pm

2)I can have a measurement by tomorrow

Alvin, he'll need two measurements. The first being the measurement from the back of the engine to the rear of your modified crossmember. The second being a SWAG of how much was trimmed from your crossmember prior to the SR install.

If you can get someone with a stock crossmember to measure theirs you can determine exactly how much was cut from yours and come up with a spot on measurement for Wilbur.

nomadtrash · Post by **nomadtrash** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:57 pm

Make me a model out of plywood, foam, or whatever and I'll cast them for $900 each.

Post by **dbrick** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 11:01 pm

Is the factory pan steel or cast aluminum? The old school method was to cut it on a bandsaw "parallel to the ground" flip the bottom around and weld it back on, rolling a step into one edge if you could.

spriso · Post by **spriso** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:12 am

Here is the RWD SR20DE oil pan that we are building for Diamond's SR20DE (Autech Version) Miata project. The pan was machined out of a billet of aluminum and will have a crab trap sump welded onto it once we sort out the final dimensions.

This last photo shows the mock-up of the pan on the engine, with the mounts on the Miata K-member. The pan will be machined to clear the steering rack now that we know where everything sits...

The mill work was done by a friend as he has spare time (Jeff at Team Thump) and hopefully we will have time to get back on this project later this summer... too many cars, too many projects!

Michael
spriso.motorsports

Wilbur · Post by **Wilbur** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 2:10 pm

Michael:
That looks similar to what I have designed so far, except I was placing the sump closer to the center (so the dipstick still goes into the sump) and was planning on bolting on the sump rather than welding, so it could be removed without taking the whole pan off.
What are you planning on doing for the transmission mounting pattern? I assume this will require some sort of structural bracket to tie the trans to the engine.
What is the exact angle between the oil pan mounting surface and horizontal? From the measurements I took, I get 4.8 deg, does this sound right?
I should have my solid modeling done this week- I'll post some pictures of the results.
FYI: It looks like even with a rear sump pan, I will still need to notch (and reinforce) the top of my front cross member, but that is still better than the major surgery required to fit the stock oil pan in.