Exhaust on the "wrong" side?

kentq · Post by **kentq** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 4:39 pm

Have any of the swaps that have been done had the exhaust on the passenger side? What about the routing on the V-6 exhausts? Just curious if and how folks dealt with this. Thanks in advance for any info.

Kent

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 5:46 pm

The Mazda rotary swaps would all have the exhaust on the wrong side.

Seems to me you have 3 options:

1) Cut holes in the passenger side of the X-member to match what's there on the driver's side.

2) Route the exhaust down the passenger side firewall, across the transmission, then down the driver's side.

3) Route the exhaust down the passenger side and go under the X-member. Using the Spintech oval tubing would help with ground clearance issues in this case.

Post by **spl310** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:13 pm

There is another option. Route the exhaust through the area between the frame rail and inner fender and out through the area between the frame rail and rocker panel. I have seen some racers that have done that or something similar.

JoeK · Post by **JoeK** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:57 pm

There's also side pipes. Jeff Torres's car has em, and somewhere else I think I've seen a pipe straight through the front fender, behind the front tire.

nomadtrash · Post by **nomadtrash** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 11:26 pm

Todd Green ran his between the rocker and the frame and then out under the drivers door. I'm sure you could do something similar on the passenger side.

kentq · Post by **kentq** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:33 am

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Andy, that's almost what I think I'd do, which is more likely than not, if the exhaust stays on the correct side since it wouldn't need as much muffling with no swap. I 'm pretty sure it will exit right behind the door(I've always love the exhausts on the Trans-Am cars). The motor I've been thinking about is a rotary. I found a guy to do it and then his shop closed and he now can't be found. Now another local rotary shop is interested in doing it but I don't know if it's really something I want. The thing is everytime I add up the cost of rebuilding the R16 the way I want, it totals close to 6k but at the same time, it will most likely out live me. Thanks for listening, I think I feel better now.

Kent

nomadtrash · Post by **nomadtrash** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:41 am

I think the rotary is one of the more difficult swaps. Good luck with your project. Keep us updated.

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:44 pm

Kent,

This Rotary swap had a stock-looking exhaust:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/13 ... 4614LwpWOZ
For a V6 swap Mark Sedlack routed the exhaust along the rockers with exits just in front of the rear wheels...very elegant:
http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/headers.htm

A twin-side-pipe exhaust on a U20:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1092953 ... 1295Gaglic

And a single side-pipe exhaust with a rocker cutout:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/29 ... 4553YroQLo

Through the frame/starter access panel as Sid mentioned, on
Ron's car:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/13 ... 2317XuCZQh
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/13 ... 2317VLXKnf

kentq · Post by **kentq** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 5:49 am

Thanks Alvin(and welcome back)! Now Gary Boone is back in business and I need to check if I'm still on his waiting list but at the same time, I called BC Gerolamy yesterday, they used to do a lot of trick heads for the 510 and Z crowd, to get a quote on rebuilding the R16 head-$1200 to start with and I can pay an additional $100 to a $1000 and up depending on how much work I want done. I would think Rebello would be similar? To swap or not to swap??? I still need counseling............

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 11:31 pm

Kent,
Do you have an R16 and a U20 available?
Rebello can build a 200hp U20 turnkey for $5000, you supply carbs.
It will still be tempermental, but it will be fast! Give them a call to see if they can work their magic on an R16....just remember a complete fuel injected Nissan KA24DE drivetrain cost less then $800

kentq · Post by **kentq** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 2:43 am

Alvin,

2 and 1/2 R16s(thanks to Mark(datsunrides) and Joaquin), a set of Mikuni 40mm PHHs(ebay), a lightened crank(ebay), lightened stock rods and an aluminum flywheel(thanks to Russell Roach). I almost emailed Rebello yesterday but held off-you must have read my mind! I got in contact with Gary Boone today to confirm that I would like to order one of his dizzys so another step to stay with the R16. KA24DE??? I know! I know! I can't keep myself from typing that into the craigslist search just to see what's out there! It really kills me when I see Dan listing complete swaps there!

Kent

nomadtrash · Post by **nomadtrash** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 7:37 am

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/nissan-2 ... dZViewItem

Can't beat the price even if you have to drive to Indiana to get it.

kentq · Post by **kentq** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:03 pm

You're not helping Andy! Thanks for the heads up though. 23hrs left and high bid is $26.00. That's one of the reasons why lately I've tried to avoid going outside of a one hundred mile radius from home on my craigslist searches. A heck of a deal for someone!

Post by **ppeters914** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 7:40 pm

Winning bid was a princely $115 bucks. CHEAP!

nomadtrash · Post by **nomadtrash** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:16 pm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/nissan-2 ... dZViewItem

Here is one for $1