Mexican Orange 510

TR · Post by TR » Sun Dec 24, 2006 10:45 pm

So, the 510 is on the road and it is really too much fun with the SR. I had forgotten just how well and how confidently the 510 corners. I hadn't driven one since '93 (oh shit, am I getting old!). It doesn't exhibit any of the skittishness of the roadster. I'll have to get out the g meter and see if the seat of the pants feel is real, maybe do a top speed run on the same road in each car for comparison...

I wanted to ask, I live on a gravel road and the noise of the debris hitting the wheel well is really loud in the cabin, has anyone else noticed this and did they do anything about it (besides turning up the stereo or getting the road paved!!!) ? Maybe an undercoating in the wheel well, or dynamat inside?

All advice appreciated! TR

Import_sounds-of-mid-GA · Mon Dec 25, 2006 2:30 pm

My BMW also has the loud noises in gravel/dirt. If I were you, I would just put a thick coat of undercoating. Also I would go a little slower just to keep it off the paint.

I love the looks of the 510s!

datsun65 · Post by **datsun65** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 2:59 pm

What type of tires are you running? I've found that the soft tires tend to pick up more gravel when driving.

TR · Post by TR » Mon Dec 25, 2006 5:15 pm

The tires are the ones from the PO: Federal 'Super Steel'...For as lame as they sound, they stick very well and are somewhat tacky. That might be adding to the noise.

I think undercoating will be my first attempt, especially since the rear wells do not have space for dynamat.

Dan, I think you need a 1962 3.5 seater to complete the series...

TR

datsun65 · Post by **datsun65** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:38 pm

I've noticed that with sticky tires (i've used the Falken rt-125 and rt-615), gravel has a tendency to get stuck to the tires and then eventually release up under the fender. When I recently switched from generic radials (hercules) to falkens, the gravel 'splattering' was evident.

As for a 3.5 - What would that be, a H20 powered trike with a side cart?

PPCLINDL · Post by **PPCLINDL** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:40 pm

Travis, how about some pics of your 510?

ppc

TR · Post by TR » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:29 pm

Sure. I posted some, do a search of the Datsun510.com gallery for TR...

http://www.datsun510.com/photopost/show ... ppuser=307

TR

Alvin · Post by **Alvin** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:06 pm

Man all you need is an orange 240Z!
Way to mount the S15 rear end.

TR · Post by TR » Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:58 pm

Hey Alvin,

Long time no see...

FYI, for all of those people out there thinking of putting a later style diff into your 510, don't do it!!!

The cost, difficulty in routing the exhaust, etc. just are not worth it. I should have checked into the cost of getting custom halfshafts made in the correct length prior to starting, that alone would have kept me from swapping the diff. Then if you count the complexity, the lack of a place to put the exhaust, it just doesn't add up given the ease of swapping a Subaru diff. Live and learn!

Conner · Post by **Conner** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:44 pm

What is involved in swapping in the SR? Is it a lot of custom work or does someone manufacture a kit?

TR · Post by TR » Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:38 pm

There are many kits for the 510, it can be a direct bolt in except for the wiring, exhaust and intercooler/plumbing (if a turbo).

I chose to convert my own except for the steering drag link and sway bar. The fabrication work as compared to a roadster is minimal - it takes way more fab and welding to install an SR into a roadster. The 510 parts that must be modified or fabricated can be unbolted from the unibody and fabrication is straigtforward - no exploring, clearancing, repairing and fitting into the frame like with the roadster.

The funny thing about the two conversions: The 510 nose is short and wide whereas the roadster is long and narrow. So for the 510, stacking the intercooler and radiator and fan to the front pully of the engine is tight, but plenty of room on the side for the exhaust. On the roadster, just the opposite.

TR