Thermostat housing bolts and temperature sensor

[Pjackb]

. I do believe the middle section is installed upside down though.

Yup you’re right
Thanks for catching

[Curtis]

One the guys up here bought the induction heater and he loves it.

[DAC21]

One the guys up here bought the induction heater and he loves it.

Interesting, I guess the same principle as the induction electric cook tops? Not to expensive for a starter kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Inducti ... 95389&th=1

[Gregs672000]

Man those heating tools are spendy for rare use IMHO. A stud tool is about $20. Propane torch?

[vckstrm]

One the guys up here bought the induction heater and he loves it.

Interesting, I guess the same principle as the induction electric cook tops? Not to expensive for a starter kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Inducti ... 95389&th=1

I bought this one with less attachments

Man those heating tools are spendy for rare use IMHO. A stud tool is about $20. Propane torch?

Fair enough. I also thought they would be cheaper when I was looking for one but sadly... Probably not worth if you've only got one or two fasteners. If you're starting a resto with bolts that haven't moved in 20 years or work on projects with rusty fasteners somewhat frequently it's nice to have on hand. No open flame, fast heat transfer, I've heard its got a bit more punch than a propane torch. I used mine to get the long water pump stud out that came pre-broken on the engine for me. Was really stuck

[Gladisco]

Nice! Thankss for the pics and replies, not the only one who has experienced this. I got after it this afternoon cut a couple sections out and could rotate the sections with the stud fused to the housing, it came out fairly easily. Did slightly nick the right side of head see pic, doesn’t go through, think that will seal ok? Guess we will find out after I get it going. Do I salvage the studs or go new? It will require more chopping probably if my soaking in kroil doesn’t free them.

Re compression - old number 3 is running about 30 - 40 and it looks like I am looking at a ring replacement and scratching the cylinders at least ;( and will assess the head and valves at that point. I did a pseudo leak down not certain I was at Tdc on 3, I didnt have a 27mm socket so I was just turning it over to where I got the piston the at highest and shot compressed air in. Air was coming out the dip stick. I am leaning on doing this motor in, any thoughts? I am not a huge fan of being under it and only have jack stands. My thought is if I am lucky I may be able to take care of it on the minimal side. The motor was rebuilt in the 90’s and Mile Young feels that is the correct course. I need to budget out a best/worst case scenario, worse being pulling it and going full bore and maybe stroke the sucker. Best being the former.

[Gladisco]

Regarding ol smokey, what was the compression? Did you/he do a leak down test? I've been reading really great results in modern cars using Valvoline Restore and Protect oil to free sticking rings and slowly remove sludge/build-up. May be a completely unrelated issue resulting from direct injection fuel systems, but you have nothing to lose. You may also try Ametech- Restore Engine Restorer & Lubricant... I've seen some before and afters with this stuff (I THINK Project Farm on YouTube tested it on his own high mileage rig) and it helped... improved compression and reduced oil consumption on his farm tractor. Might keep you happy enough until you're ready to tear into it. Here's the link, assuming I did it right... maybe you can do your own before and after video...

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... pUat1KKsKr

Cool, just watched and I dont think it could hurt. I will give it a try.

[Gregs672000]

Well done in the studs. Pretty sure replacement is the way to go.

30-40lbs of compression is extremely low... I'd be very surprised if the restore product could overcome that, but you're risking less than $50. What were the others? May have a broken ring in that one. Air out the dip stick is rings. If you're able to retest it, you don't have to use a lot of air pressure since you're not really trying to determine a percentage of leak down (from say 100lbs of pressure), just listening for where and kinda guessing at how bad, so 20-30lbs should be plenty and easier to keep the engine from spinning on you (parking brake set firm, trans in 4th gear). Listen at the carbs, exhaust and dip stick. As I understand things, the Oil rings are basically scrapers that wipe the oil off the walls, while the compression rings keep the pressure on top from going into the block. When they wear out and/or the walls get scraped it allows the pressure to leak past the rings and into the cylinders. Valves leak compression past the valve face/edge and the seat they seal against, but oil burning from the valves is oil getting past the stems and guides, allowing it to get sucked into the combustion chamber on intake or burned in the manifold on exhaust. A leak down won't tell you anything about the condition of the valve stems and guides which often need attention.

What do the plugs look like?

[fj20spl311]

I am not a fan of stainless steel studs, they tend to lock onto the nuts and strip when you disassemble. I prefer the black studs with marine grease or marine grade antiseize.