facory locking gas cap issue...

[Coolmeadow Kid]

Hi all!
Took my '68 2000 to show to a friend and get her help on a form that needed to be signed by someone who knew my wife and then notarized. With lunch, about a 85 mile trip. Was right at or a hair below 1/4 tank of gas on the way home so stopped to fill it up for the first time. Now, I've had the factory locking cap on and off 2 times in the last 10 days since receiving the car. The key turns to lock and unlock it, but the cap will NOT come off. It turns a small amount, and tilts, (key locked or not) like it isn't sealed off, but will not come off. It acts like the last time I had it off the 2 'tabs' didn't hit the right spots or I didn't get it turned to tighten before locking it.
So how do I get it off? I'm below 1/8 of a tank now and being loose, I'm sure it's losing fumes. Thanks in advance for any help or ideas you may have. Jim.

[Bwk2000]

Sounds like the locking tab is not fully retracting as you turn the key. Might try turning the key left (and holding it) while trying to put the cap back ON and in the fully closed position - If you can manage this, now put significant downward pressure on the cap while cycling the key between the lock and unlock position several times, ending in the unlock position, then see if it twists off (while keeping pressure on it).

[david premo]

Try to get a locksmith to come out to your house and try to get the lock working.

[Coolmeadow Kid]

Kai, I tried it, But the cap will not turn at all. It's like the two legs are locked. The cap will pivot on an axis left and right, but not up or down. Cap won't push in either.
David, a mobile locksmith might be the answer, but I'm not sure how. I can remove the key when in the key cylinder is in the locked position. Put it in and turn counter clockwise, it moves smoothly. It's just not getting the legs to retract, if that's what they do to release. It's like something inside the gas cap broke keeping it from releasing.
Thanks for the ideas to try. If anyone else has an idea to try, especially if you've had this problem in the past and found a way to get it off, let me know.

[DAC21]

You could remove the cap still on the collar by disconnecting the collar from the hose in the trunk (cap off the hose so the fumes don't vent, and you could add gas as well)) If nothing else you can work on it from inside the house with better light and angles trying and see what is going on. Good time to change out the collar grommet if in poor shape.

[Coolmeadow Kid]

When I was out in the garage trying what Kai suggested, I looked at the filler neck. Easy enough to disconnect from the rubber connector, which appears to be in good shape, but the vent tube (overflow??) fitting would have to be cut off the neck to get it out of the hole in the sheet metal. Thus requiring a new neck. But I'm thinking that may be my only option. Now to source a replacement neck! (Where's that smile emoji when you need it???)

[theunz]

I have removed the neck through the hole without hurting the vent tube. It was an extremely tight fit. Once you have it out you can remove the two screws holding the lock tang from the open end of the neck. If you had to you could grind a little clearance in the hole for the vent tube as the rubber grommet will cover it as long as you don’t go crazy. Good luck.

[Bwk2000]

Kai, I tried it, But the cap will not turn at all. It's like the two legs are locked. The cap will pivot on an axis left and right, but not up or down. Cap won't push in either …

Well, if it won’t budge in any direction, then your options are quite limited.

+1 on the recommendation by Dennis and Mike to pull the whole filler neck out - Do it in a well ventilated area

[ADR]

The non-locking cap on my 66 fits through the rear body panel. If your cap does too, you may be able to slide the rubber hose connector up or down enough to separate the neck from the tank. If so, tip it to one side and push it into the trunk and no worries about the vent tube.

[Coolmeadow Kid]

ADR. So, does the filler neck not have a 'flange' that sits on the sheet metal? Actually, now that I type that, it seems obvious that the vent fitting jutting out from the filler neck would have to go through the hole when it was originally installed if it had a 'flange' on the filler neck. DUH!!! OK. Something to work on tomorrow. Thanks everyone!!!
Oh, and one thing I did find out during reading the owner's manual trying to figure it all out is originally there was an ignition key, and a second one that operated the door locks, trunk, and gas cap. I guess this one was re-keyed somewhere along the way because one key fits all.

[Solex68]

1. Remove the entire cap and neck as one piece
2. Bring it to an old school locksmith, it important to find some one knowledgeable with history rather than someone less experienced who may not appreciate the challenge or that the car is vintage and valuable
3. See what they can do. I believe there are screws on the back of the cap that could be removed and the cap locking internals could come out.
4. If you have AAA of Texas, AAA in California and Texas will pay your key service. You'll need to pay up front but you can be reimbursed by submitting a form. Depending on your AAA level. They will reimburse up to $100 or $150. A side fact, you can reimburse home rekeying work and car rekeying work.
Ask the locksmith to write it up as rekeying and labor.

[redroadster]

I've a locking cap, not sure it's factory.
But yrs ago ,The key wouldn't open it
It's tough turning it to open when it did
I took a propane torch and in vise grips heated the key dipped it in Vaseline 6 ,7 x ,heat the key then leave it in took an hour then it opened ,then soaked in penetrent overnite

[Coolmeadow Kid]

My bad, I haven't updated this thread. I finally ran out of options and literally forced the cap off the neck. Cleaned the working end up after taking the 2 screws off and pulled the housing off the working parts of the lock tab. Wiped all the components that move with a paper towel soaked lightly with machine oil. Put back together and the locking tab worked perfectly. Put it back on the neck, locks fine, but the cap was VERY LOOSE. Certainly wouldn't seal the vapors in the tank that way. Took the cap off and the stationary 'tangs' (for lack of the true name of the part) that align with the 2 cut out places on the neck were bent down causing it not to pull the cap down tight when rotating it to the closed position so it would lock. Something, I'm sure, that happened when I forced the cap off. I was very leery of taking that off the housing as the piece has 4 small rectangular slots that 4 pieces of metal go through, then are bent down to hold this piece to the housing. After a day of thinking about it, I figured what the heck. If more than one breaks, I'm in no different position than I am now and will have to find a replacement, or another way to secure it. The metal bent easily with standard pliers, so bent the 2 on one side straight up, and the opposite two just enough to work the piece off. Hammered it straight, put it back on and knocked the metal 'keepers' back down tight and the cap works perfectly now! The fight to get the new Gates rubber hose on between the filler neck and the gas tank was NOT fun, though.

[Gregs672000]

Thanks for finishing out the thread. Congratulations on your success!