Supply and demand. Ouch!
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Supply and demand. Ouch!
Any way, on to a few simple questions.
Does this look like it might be repairable? If so, where does the filament wire attach? Where is the mentioned "ground" tab suppose to be? Or should I just order the simple parts listed in the wiki post, and attempt to build a newer, (better) one?
Getting ANYTHING shipped to my remote location in Baja is a huge pain but doable. Thus my preference to salvage the OE one.
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Ive seen normal. It aint pretty.
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Re: Supply and demand. Ouch!
I believe there should have been a small clip that held the wire on the edge of the circuit board in the small recess. When the regulator is assembled, it makes contact with the case. The case also needs to be mounted to the car to supply the ground.
If that doesn’t work, there is a write up in the tech section on how to replace the guts with a solid state voltage regulator.
Peace, Pat
If that doesn’t work, there is a write up in the tech section on how to replace the guts with a solid state voltage regulator.
Peace, Pat
67.5 SPL311 Stroker Restomod
02 Silverado 1500 Tow vehicle
17 Camry current daily driver
Pat Horne, Near Austin, TX
We support Habitat for Humanity
A hand UP, not a hand OUT
02 Silverado 1500 Tow vehicle
17 Camry current daily driver
Pat Horne, Near Austin, TX
We support Habitat for Humanity
A hand UP, not a hand OUT
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Re: Supply and demand. Ouch!
Seems a few folks have mentioned just using some contact cleaner (better yet Deoxit) and reflowing solder joints fixed their issue. There is also this fix . https://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki. ... VoltRegFix
Disregard the links for the IC and PC cable, they are dead. But those items can be found cheap on Amazon if you can get reliable Amazon shipments down in Baja?
Disregard the links for the IC and PC cable, they are dead. But those items can be found cheap on Amazon if you can get reliable Amazon shipments down in Baja?
1967 1600 in waiting SPL311-09002 / R-28178
2018 Hyundai Elantra GT Sport Ultimate
2018 Hyundai Elantra GT Sport Ultimate
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Re: Supply and demand. Ouch!
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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Re: Supply and demand. Ouch! Update
Thanks to all for the replies. Thanks to DAC21 for the link that addressed my question about the loose filament wire (see photo above) and member DENNISWAGNERUSA for providing the precise info that my wee brain required. Following his instructions I was able to reconnect the filament wire and create a more reliable ground connection. Still some adjustments to be done ,but the results are as follows:
Temp gauge was always pegged at hot after just a few minutes of engine running. Now it is registering an actual temperature, albeit not an accurate one as yet. Gauge is reading 135 (F) at operation temp. Actual temp per infrared gun was 165 at temp sending unit.
Fuel gauge was at constant full with key on. After the repairs, it was reading 1/4 full. Drove into town and filled up and gauge is now reading slightly over 3/4 full.
So, an improvement to be sure, but more work to be done.
Now to research the posts I've seen in the past about adjustment screws on the back of the gauges. And watch some YouTube videos on contortionism.
Temp gauge was always pegged at hot after just a few minutes of engine running. Now it is registering an actual temperature, albeit not an accurate one as yet. Gauge is reading 135 (F) at operation temp. Actual temp per infrared gun was 165 at temp sending unit.
Fuel gauge was at constant full with key on. After the repairs, it was reading 1/4 full. Drove into town and filled up and gauge is now reading slightly over 3/4 full.
So, an improvement to be sure, but more work to be done.
Now to research the posts I've seen in the past about adjustment screws on the back of the gauges. And watch some YouTube videos on contortionism.
Ive seen normal. It aint pretty.