This 70 restoration is kicking my butt!! See my recent thread about a clutch issue, which led to the engine removal that is underway now. I have everything unhooked and ready to pull the engine EXCEPT. The drive shaft. First it was stubborn in dropping from the flange at the diff. After removing the four bolts, I had to pry the shaft off the flange. Not rusted tight (newly installed), just tight. Finally got that dropped and the yoke will not pull free from the tranny. (4-speed 1970). OK I am old and weak and working underneath the car at an angle, but it is just supposed to slide rearward - right? So I attach a rope and try to pull from behind the car. No dice. Tried a com-along attached to the rope. finally moved a jack-stand. No good. Moved the car to my lift and got it up in the air. Tried a slide hammer. You guessed it. re-installed the tranny crossmember brace for further support and rigidity and tried prying backward just behind the front u-joint with a block of wood and a crowbar. It is not coming. All this stuff is newly cleaned and installed, so no rust, or old dried grease, or road grime. At least it is clean to work on...
Before I hurt myself and ruin something I am asking for second opinions. Everything on this 70 seems a little different than my old 66. I am flummoxed. Best to stop and go back in a day or two when I get to these places, but asking for insight/opinions. Thanks for putting up with an old fart that cannot seem to get out of my own way
Roadsterdude1600
Mike Harper
'66 1600 (Jessie)
'70 1600 restoration project nearing completion
'67.5 R16 stoker 5 speed project in the wings
71 Datsun 521 Pickup
'99 Miata track rat
2001 Toyota Tundra V8 (325K)
Camden SC
Yes, driveshaft just slides out of the 4-speed on splines. Be sure to drain the trans or cap the tail end or it will dump 90W all over your garage when you pull it out.
If you have a helper, you can probably manage to pull the engine, trans AND driveshaft out as a unit-then figure out why it is stuck- don't wail on it or otherwise damage it---should be pretty easy to remove.
Muffler gun time ,vibrate it out
It will tell if inside its rusted too
Got pics ? On long parked cars
I've seen D shafts that the rear area of the Trans splines rust because humidity collects moisture & its parked on a down slope ,so the outer splines are still tight but it has spun and welds it to the output shaft , vr4 3000gts saw it 2 or 3 times
So big $ repair
Last edited by redroadster on Sat Nov 09, 2024 11:36 am, edited 3 times in total.
Datsun dealer tech 76 to 87
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
Never had a problem like this, wondering if there is a burr on a spline or the receiver. Did you unbolt the engine mounts and trans mount before removing the drive shaft? If so, I am wondering if the loose engine compressed the drive shaft between the trans and the differential. Maybe drive shaft is stuck to the trans output shaft, over drawn the length of the splines due to the compression. Just a WAG. It should just slide right out
like I said, just drag it out with the transmission. It will be easy to assess once outside of the car. You should not need any destructive tools to remove it.
Is it possible that you removed the transmission mount before pulling the drive shaft and the shaft is laying on the X member and will not pull out for that reason?
david premo wrote: Wed Nov 06, 2024 1:00 pm
Is it possible that you removed the transmission mount before pulling the drive shaft and the shaft is laying on the X member and will not pull out for that reason?
You're the second person to ask this... seems reasonable as there should be no reason for it to not just slide out.
Yes I did remove the cross member first, and my first thought was that it was in a bind, so when I put it on the lift I reinstalled the cross member and tranny brace nuts so it would all be rigid for easier pulling. That did not help, but thank you all for the ideas. Like I said it is all newly installed and has been inside, so not a rust or grime issue. I am inclined to do as JT suggests and let it dangle out as I pull the engine. I will have help at Thanksgiving to accomplish this. Really strange, but I will update this and the clutch thread for your information after Thanksgiving. Y'all ROCK!!
Roadsterdude1600
Mike Harper
'66 1600 (Jessie)
'70 1600 restoration project nearing completion
'67.5 R16 stoker 5 speed project in the wings
71 Datsun 521 Pickup
'99 Miata track rat
2001 Toyota Tundra V8 (325K)
Camden SC
Mike, did you do the initial driveshaft install? I was wondering if when it was installed the splines were not lined up and it was "hammered" in and is now jammed up? Jeff
-Jeff-
1967.5 SPL311 Datsun Roadster 1600/2000 (Full Restoration Project)
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider (Full Restoration Project)
1970 Triumph GT6+ (Full Restoration Project. Waiting up on the shelf.)
I installed it. while it was body off frame. slid in just fine then as I remember. Also do not remember the rear flange connection being tight, but that was very tight when disassembled. Something moved sometime. I ran the car in gear off the ground several times and nothing seemed bound up. Stay tuned!
Roadsterdude1600
Mike Harper
'66 1600 (Jessie)
'70 1600 restoration project nearing completion
'67.5 R16 stoker 5 speed project in the wings
71 Datsun 521 Pickup
'99 Miata track rat
2001 Toyota Tundra V8 (325K)
Camden SC
With a long very good drill bit and a slow drill you can drill thru the back of the spline tube and spray rust penetrant , yes it should have 90w there any way but if it rusted , it is completely siezed, or moves a bit in & out ?
Might try a slide hammer /medium power, the air hammer& a hammer bit on med in bursts repeatedly frees many things this kind of thing needs a 6ft lift
Datsun dealer tech 76 to 87
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
Update for those following: I went back with the car on the lift and continued to gently pry with a crow bar and some wood blocks as a lever point. Rotated the shaft to alternate angles, and it finally gave way. I did not want to get aggressive but rotating it was the trick. It was way tighter than should have been, but had a nice coating of gear oil. Anyway, that part is done. On to engine removal and clutch inspection. Back to that thread. Thanks for your suggestions.
Roadsterdude1600
Mike Harper
'66 1600 (Jessie)
'70 1600 restoration project nearing completion
'67.5 R16 stoker 5 speed project in the wings
71 Datsun 521 Pickup
'99 Miata track rat
2001 Toyota Tundra V8 (325K)
Camden SC