Ralph wrote: Tue Oct 08, 2024 3:39 pm
It goes up and down just fine but slides forward to back and almost comes out of the front frame
Any suggestions? I took the inner door panel off but couldn’t see an obvious piece to tighten.
Ralph
Hey Ralph,
It's just a guess but there are rails that the glass follows. One in the front and one in that back of the glass (part #12). It is common that the tab at the bottom of the rear rail, breaks off. If you remove that guide rail, the tab can be welded back. If I remember there are two screws that hold the rear rail in place and they are kinda in the area of the #1 and the #62 in the drawing.
I attached an image, the rails are displayed here above the door but they are obviously, inside the door. The red circle is typically where it breaks. It's pretty common BTW.
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Door.png
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I hope I'm correct and that I helped.
So…. now that I’ve had time to have a closer look, It turns out that the felt channel has fallen out of the metal guide piece on the rear side of the window. It simply needs to be re-glued.
It seems pretty tight and tricky to re-glue the felt with the channel is in the door. Would it be easier to remove the channel by taking out the two screws and glueing it outside the car? Is there a downside to doing it that way?
Question on soft tops. Searching some sights I have come across one or two that list a soft top for a '68-'69 being different from a '70. Does anyone know if this is truly the case? I have a '70 and want to get a new top put on. I know '68-'70 cars are high windshields, but wonder what difference(s) there would be in '70 vs the other two years.
They’re all the same from VIN SPL311-17001 and up. Some sites separate ‘68-‘70 (even ‘71) tops, but if you compare their soft top part numbers for any of those years, they’re all identical.
I think JT (DRP) and maybe Stan (Fairlady Products) may still stock them.
Kai
Halifax, N.S. ’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
That's what I was expecting, they should all be the same. tops online.com lists one for SPL311-17001 thru SPL311-27000, and another for SPL311-27001 thru SPL311-31350. convertibletopguys.com does the same, so does ezsofttops.com. They all state they are Robbins tops, but the Robbins website just has a '68-'69 top listed - no '70 specific top. I'm going to message the Robbins site and see what they have to say.
If I remember correctly, I think Robbins use to produce tops with a couple different rain gutter designs. Maybe they recommend one over the other based on the early or later frame type … IDK … but either way, if one fits, they all do.
Kai
Halifax, N.S. ’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
JT68 wrote: Sun Oct 20, 2024 2:12 pm
Greg, two closely threaded holes are the balljoint end (the bottom "corners" in your photo).
The plates in the photo are upside down, but when mounted, the large radius corners go to the rear of the a-arm, the smaller radius corners
point forward.
Thanks JT
Greg a.k.a SOLEX68 - http://www.datsunvents.com/
Laguna Hills, CA
68 2000 Always willing to help another Datsun Roadster owner
Pending installs: Stan Stealth Dizzy
70-1600 wrote: Tue Oct 22, 2024 2:22 pm
Question on soft tops. Searching some sights I have come across one or two that list a soft top for a '68-'69 being different from a '70. Does anyone know if this is truly the case? I have a '70 and want to get a new top put on. I know '68-'70 cars are high windshields, but wonder what difference(s) there would be in '70 vs the other two years.
The tops are different for 68-69 and late 69-70 because the frames are different and are different heights.
70-1600 wrote: Tue Oct 22, 2024 2:22 pm
Question on soft tops. Searching some sights I have come across one or two that list a soft top for a '68-'69 being different from a '70. Does anyone know if this is truly the case? I have a '70 and want to get a new top put on. I know '68-'70 cars are high windshields, but wonder what difference(s) there would be in '70 vs the other two years.
Fortuitous timing - Looks like Stan does have them available, including different material options that fit all ‘68-‘70 high windshield cars (link below):
70-1600 wrote: Tue Oct 22, 2024 2:22 pm
Question on soft tops. Searching some sights I have come across one or two that list a soft top for a '68-'69 being different from a '70. Does anyone know if this is truly the case? I have a '70 and want to get a new top put on. I know '68-'70 cars are high windshields, but wonder what difference(s) there would be in '70 vs the other two years.
Fortuitous timing - Looks like Stan does have them available, including different material options that fit all ‘68-‘70 high windshield cars (link below):
Sent off an email to Stan about his tops and how to order them. Also posed the question about the 70 frame being different than the 68-69 year cars, as some have mentioned and some websites delineate.
70-1600 wrote: Thu Nov 14, 2024 5:19 pm
Sent off an email to Stan about his tops and how to order them. Also posed the question about the 70 frame being different than the 68-69 year cars, as some have mentioned and some websites delineate.
-jt
Good idea. I’ve included a detailed write-up (link below) by Rallye Enterprises which explains everything clearly. Even though there are minor differences in the two top types based on frame year, as he said, they were using them interchangeably for 42 years on both frame types and other people have also done it “a jillion times“.
You’ll also find pictures at the bottom of the write-up to identify what frame type you really have since it may have been swapped-out at some point in the car’s history.
70-1600 wrote: Thu Nov 14, 2024 5:19 pm
Sent off an email to Stan about his tops and how to order them. Also posed the question about the 70 frame being different than the 68-69 year cars, as some have mentioned and some websites delineate.
-jt
Good idea. I’ve included a detailed write-up (link below) by Rallye Enterprises which explains everything clearly. Even though there are minor differences in the two top types based on frame year, as he said, they were using them interchangeably for 42 years on both frame types and other people have also done it “a jillion times“.
You’ll also find pictures at the bottom of the write-up to identify what frame type you really have since it may have been swapped-out at some point in the car’s history.
Thanks Kai. I heard back from Stan, and he also referenced the write-up from Rallye - good information. Looks like I'll be good with the top he sells for my 1970. Time to drag the frame down from the garage attic and prep it for install of the top. I know I'll also need a top bow finisher (I know mine is pretty much toast). Looking at Dean's offerings - one just vacuum form plastic, the other foam and thermal vinyl; pretty significant price difference. Which did you use, or did you need to replace it? Looks like you also used the springs/cables on yours. I've read some posts where people got by without them...
Mine is just the plastic one, and yes, still using the springs & cables. Can’t say how much better or worse the install or fit would be without them as I haven’t done it.
Kai
Halifax, N.S. ’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
Hey everyone. I just removed the dash pad from my 66. With the pad out of the way, I can see that there is a steel panel (part of the body), and there is the steel flat dash panel (removable). I see a gap between these two panels of about 3/8". The dash pad was in-between these two steel panels, like a sandwich. Is that the correct order (steel body, dash pad, steel flat dash)? Seems like the dash pad fits better under these two steel panels....
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The 2 pieces of steel go together when the screws are installed. You can see in the picture that the dash is laying on the steering column and if you lifted it up off the column and put the 2 pieces together the gap around the column would most likely be uniform.