Greg’s ‘69 SRL311-07324

[Stick]

This week I also added a fuel pressure gauge as well as removed the luggage rack from the back to see how I like it. Painted tome trim rivets to match as best I can to temporarily cover the holes .... not the best looking, but will work for now.

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[Gregs672000]

Yeah Greg! Glad you got it sorted out... sounds like it should not only be more reliable but a bit happier running too!

[Stick]

Been a little bit since I have really done anything to the roadster other than look at it and take it for the occasional ride ..... it's been running better than ever.

This week I bought a new (reconditioned) set of Solex carbs (Thank you Peter and Dave Premo!) and got to removing the current SU's. I didn't forget but was quickly reminded how tough that last nut was to remove from the bottom side behind the #4 exhaust tube...
Removed the starter and the bolts to the collector on the lower side of the header and then pulled out the header. I'll be cleaning these up and likely hitting them with a high temp paint or order some cerakote ceramic coating if I get ambitious.
Chased all of the threads for the exhaust/intake studs and hardware with tap/die
Cleaned up the side of the motor a bit ( I'll do a more thorough job when I pull it this winter)
Looking forward to receiving the new solex carbs and getting them installed and dialed in. Trying to determine if I'm going to spring for the DRP air cleaner or run the ITG, but I definitely think the DRP exhaust is in the future!

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[Gregs672000]

Congratulations Greg, you're going to love the sound of the Mikunis. What ever filter system you go with, be sure to use the velocity stacks (built in on JTs I think...).

[Stick]

Thanks Greg ... These come with some 75MM stacks but I'm also looking at a set of some shorter ones (35-50MM) to try out some differences. Should be fun.

[Gregs672000]

I think mine are 1.5". The tall ones are nice as they can improve low end torque but it gets harder and harder to find a good filter option.

[Stick]

I received the new Solex carbs yesterday afternoon and tried a quick test fit today without the exhaust (and still waiting on the Solex heat shield). I couldn't get the carbs to fit due to interference between the brake master cylinder and the #3/4 carb - couldn't get the studs to align with the manifold and slip into place. I tried separating the carb and manifold and installing that first to see if I could get the carb by the master cylinder, but no dice. It looked close, but wasn't going to try and force it and damage the carbs and they would likely still contact even if I got it on.

I tried removing the master cylinder and then installing .... that got the carbs to fit, but then can't reinstall the master cylinder. I have to assume that I have the wrong master cylinder installed.

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Attached is a picture of the interference and length measurement of the MC ... any help in determining the correct MC would be appreciated!

Thanks!

[Gregs672000]

It's been many carbs since I had Mikuni, but I do recall how close some things were. Digging through my box-o-bolts the other day I think I saw the metal plates etc that cover the fuel feed fitting, which means I removed them (at least on the rear carb, probably both to keep the look consistent) to make room. They are there for the choke cables (which I never used and you don't need) and a bolt locker for the fuel fitting which was never an issue with loosening (I have the same fittings for my EFI fuel line and it's under 65lbs of fuel pressure, no leaks). So, try removing those parts and I think it will create just enough room...

Regarding the choke cables, they operate a "starter system" that I ultimately never used because it's not needed for the 3-5 seconds it's on... instead, three pumps of the accelerator jets and it would fire every time, then used the hand throttle to hold a warm up rpm. Chokes are more required for SU carbs as they have no enrichment/acceleration system to squirt extra fuel.

Hope this helps!

P.S. Besides the fact that my heat shield had cracked in several places, it also makes it even harder to install the carbs and manifold bolts. As I recall it can attach to bolts on the manifold or the bolts that mount the carbs to the manifold. The Mikuni have an accelerator system that hangs down unlike other carb makers (like Dellorto). Due to the crack and the interference, I gave up on it and ended up using a coated and (Heat Shield Products) wrapped header and made a heat shield that slides under the carbs/TBs and attaches to the body and is easy unbolt and slide out. It greatly reduced the temps I was seeing on the TBs. Ya, not stock, but what is on my car! Just an FYI... play with mounting the whole set up to find the best method for you... manifold, carbs, heat shield, or installed as a complete unit, or heat shield last... ?

[theunz]

It’s a very close fit even with the stock master cylinder. I have a 510 master on mine and it just barely fits. I think some of the 510 masters are a touch longer than others. If you still have your OEM cylinder your best bet might be to have it sleeved. You might be able to get by as well by using the shims to angle it up a little more, but if you go too steep you will encounter other issues.

[Gregs672000]

Also, I redid all my brake lines 36 years ago and had the Mikuni carbs from the beginning, so it may be necessary to modify or remake the rear brake master line to its fitting, which I think is on the passenger side of the car just past the firewall. Hopefully others will chime in here shortly as it shouldn't be as much hassle as you're experiencing.

"Dave Premo to the floor... paging Dave Premo..."

[Stick]

Thanks Greg and Mike - Some great suggestions to investigate. I do think it's the fuel fitting that's making the contact.

I think I'm going to replace the Master Cylinder - as it turns out it's a 7/8 bore and it looks like the stock is supposed to be 3/4. I've read a ton of threads about the mismatch and how it doesn't work well ... my brakes work but they are hard and don't have a good feel.

Peter (iloveredmeat) measured his spare stock MBC and it appears to be 6.5" vs mine that is 7" , so a correct unit will may have a couple of benefits. I think I'm leaning toward the Sin City reproduction to keep the costs down ... I overshot my budget for this thing already, but I'm stoked to get this thing back up and running.

I did speak with Dave Premo a number of times in the past couple of days .. just not on this issue yet. Trying not to keep pestering him!


Funny sidebar ... As I was sitting here typing my wife walked by and jokingly said ... " what are you doing ... having an online love affair?" I said Yeah - with Greg, Mike and Peter. She said "No Bobby? What are you on, the Brady bunch forum??" LOL..we had a pretty good laugh.

[Gregs672000]

Marsha Marsha Marsha!

[david premo]

So 2 things here catch my attention. If the calipers are stock Roadster ones then using the 7/8 master will give an extra hard feeling brake pedal as it would not be properly matched. Second is the outlet port for the rear brakes is too close to the rear carburetor, and will add to the clearance issues. As you can see by the picture of a stock master cylinder the rear output port is right next to the front brake port giving you much better clearance.
Dave

[Stick]

Thanks Again Dave ... I can definitely see the difference! I checked my old parts bins that came with the car and I don't have an original to rebuild but I'll definitely have to replace with something the correct bore size that gives enough carb clearance.

[Stick]

Ordered a new Brake MC today and after work decided to remove it and start installing the new carbs with anticipation of installing the MC after the carbs.

Man, I learned a lot of lessons the hard way today... I think I was over excited to get these things in and fired up.

Got the new gasket in place and loosely installed the exhaust headers. Installed the intake manifold and all of the new washers/nuts making sure to install the yoke washers that clamp the exhaust and intake together. Got through all of the tough installations of the lower washers and nuts and started a tightening sequence to make sure the seal to the head was good to avoid air or water leaks. Stepped back, admired the work and saw that I forgot to install the starter (which had to be removed to extract the exhaust headers that I coated)! I mumbled a few words and thought man, I don't want to undo all of that go through that again!

Removed the manifold and made quick work of the starter then started the installation of the intake manifold again. Lots of contortion again to get to the lower washers and nuts started and tighten them... finally got that done. Took a couple ibuprofen and a deep breath ... On to the carbs.

Got the carbs installed. Much easier than the manifold, but still a sore back from leaning over the car and working on the washers and nuts on the lower side. Made initial adjustments to the throttle linkages to take up any play and then loosely installed the velocity stacks. Again stepped back to admire the work and thought maybe I should add a dab of locktite to the velocity stacks. Went to the workbench to grab some locktite and saw the heat shield ......mumbled a few more choice words but a little louder ... how the hell could I forget that! No way around it, I have to remove the carbs and install with the heat shield.

Tore it back down to the manifold and tried to test fit the heat shield... Not as easy as the SU heat shield and took a couple minutes to figure out I had to remove the nuts on the back of the isolators ( isolators already installed on the manifold and couldn't see the nuts on the back side). It was then that I remembered what Dave Premo warned me about. Got those off and tried to work the heat shield in place but I couldn't get it to fit due to interference with the starter! I knew thew starter was somewhat new (installed before I got the car) and it looked a little long .... aftermarket. The heat shield was contacting the starter solenoid. Tried to modify the heat shield (after market heavy duty version) with some slight bends but still couldn't make it work. Decided to rotate the starter 180 degrees and move the solenoid out of the way .. didn't work. Rotated back to the original position and wrestled with the top bolt to get it started... very little room to work and get hands in there. Eventually the starter dropped out of alignment and I tried to catch the bolt in tight quarters ... the bolt came out of the starter and fell down into the bell housing as I watched it in slow motion.

At this point I may have invented a few new words. Spent about 20 minutes trying to fish the bolt out of the bell housing with some telescopic magnets... No dice. Fetched my bore scope camera to see if I could locate the bolt ... again, no dice.

Am I going to have to pull the engine and trans now to fetch that bolt?

Unbelievable.... something to be said about aftermarket parts.... or maybe just a little bit out of my league

This was all supposed to be routine and fairly straightforward. Stepping back to take a fresh approach tomorrow.