Have you lifted the body from four inner seat hole locations?

[fairlane292]

I realize there are a lot of discussions about lifting the body of this forum but I am asking about a specific lifting method that will allow me to raise and lower the body on and off the chassis to check fitment at numerous times in my build. I will be using a gantry crane and chain hoist. I can't lift and lower the body in a fashion that has any obstruction when lowering, so the four inner seat hole locations along the tunnel seem ideal. I plan on using a plate of 3/16" or 1/4" (approx 6" wide and 36" long) underneath through which the four 7/16' eye bolts are attached. The bolts will facilitate the lifting points. Doors openings have support bars bolted in. The body is an empty body shell.

Has someone here used this method? Can you pls tell me what you experienced as far as forward and rearward balance is concerned. I will use a balance bar but I don't know if that will be sufficient. Any other comments you may have are greatly appreciated. I will share my experience after successfully lowering the body onto the chassis which is now separated for round one of modifications which are completed.

[Habitat.pat]

I haven’t tried lifting via these points but if you find that the balance point is too far off you can always add ballast to make them work.

Peace, Pat

[Stick]

I don't have any experience with this yet, but I'm interested ...

Are the front fenders and windshield still installed? I would think those may move the fulcrum forward considerably? Assume trunk lid is off as well?

[fairlane292]

I don't have any experience with this yet, but I'm interested ...

Are the front fenders and windshield still installed? I would think those may move the fulcrum forward considerably? Assume trunk lid is off as well?

Yes, body is literally an empty shell (no fenders, hood, windshield, decklid... nothing)

[ADR]

The outboard seat mounting holes would make for a more stable lift, but I'm unsure if you will have the same clear access for the steel backing plates that you've mentioned. This may not be a big deal. Otherwise, I agree that you should be able to add a modest bit of ballast weight to improve the load balance from front to back if needed. The further forward or back that you add that balast, the less you will need.

Because the seat holes are relatively close together (front to back), there may be a tendency for the body to bobble up and down between nose and tail during the lift. Just be sure that you have a few extra hands to keep it stable.

Send pics and let us know how it goes!

[theunz]

Since you are going to use all 4 seat mounting holes you should be able to control fore and aft balance by shortening one set of straps.

[fairlane292]

The outboard seat mounting holes would make for a more stable lift, but I'm unsure if you will have the same clear access for the steel backing plates that you've mentioned. This may not be a big deal. Otherwise, I agree that you should be able to add a modest bit of ballast weight to improve the load balance from front to back if needed. The further forward or back that you add that balast, the less you will need.
Because the seat holes are relatively close together (front to back), there may be a tendency for the body to bobble up and down between nose and tail during the lift. Just be sure that you have a few extra hands to keep it stable.

Send pics and let us know how it goes!

Thanks for your thoughts. I’ve been thinking of using the inner holes for a few reasons. The body mount brackets would prevent using a single 3’ long plate. I may be wrong about this but the with the inner ones the lift is more vertical; if I was ti use the outer I feel the pull will be much more lateral against the floor. With that thought I’d prob want to use an intermediate cross bar then the lift would be on the bar. If I find I have to use the outer holes then that’s likely what I’ll do but I’m trying to keep this simple.

I’ll have the gantry crane level and the chassis level each time I raise or lower the body. I think it will be pretty easy to ballast front to back. I do want to be able to do this alone.
The gantry crane, hoist, chain, etc is all much stronger than what is needed for the weight. I’ll be super methodical and careful of course.

Thanks again for the input.

[fairlane292]

The outboard seat mounting holes would make for a more stable lift, but I'm unsure if you will have the same clear access for the steel backing plates that you've mentioned. This may not be a big deal. Otherwise, I agree that you should be able to add a modest bit of ballast weight to improve the load balance from front to back if needed. The further forward or back that you add that balast, the less you will need.
Because the seat holes are relatively close together (front to back), there may be a tendency for the body to bobble up and down between nose and tail during the lift. Just be sure that you have a few extra hands to keep it stable.

Send pics and let us know how it goes!

Thanks for your thoughts. I’ve been thinking of using the inner holes for a few reasons. The body mount brackets would prevent using a single 3’ long plate. I may be wrong about this but the with the inner ones the lift is more vertical; if I was ti use the outer I feel the pull will be much more lateral against the floor. With that thought I’d prob want to use an intermediate cross bar then the lift would be on the bar. If I find I have to use the outer holes then that’s likely what I’ll do but I’m trying to keep this simple.

I’ll have the gantry crane level and the chassis level each time I raise or lower the body. I think it will be pretty easy to ballast front to back. I do want to be able to do this alone.
The gantry crane, hoist, chain, etc is all much stronger than what is needed for the weight. I’ll be super methodical and careful of course.

Thanks again for the input.

[Curtis]

You need to check the condition of the metal around the seat holes. Quite often they are cracked or have rust damage.

[fairlane292]

You need to check the condition of the metal around the seat holes. Quite often they are cracked or have rust damage.

Indeed.
Floors are rust free. Were blasted and epoxied.
Using two 6”x36” 1/4” steel plates. Waiting on getting the 7/16” eye bolts. Supposed to be delivered later today.

[fairlane292]

Moved the body from the rack to the chassis today. Went smoothly. The engine leveler worked great for leveling front to back. It would have been nice (but not necessary) to have had a second person just lightly applying front to back leveling pressure. I want to be able to do this myself as easily as possible so I’ll take a look at maybe adding a couple straps slightly loose to only allow the body to tip either way a very small amount. That’s the only real upgrade I could see here. Took a hour this first trip doing but it’ll be much quicker each time going forward.

Strength of the mounting points with the two 36”x6”x1/4” steel plates seems well more than adequate. I didn’t see any signs of deflection in the body or hear any creaking sounds from the car or the gantry. It was easy to align the body to the mounting holes in the frame. The two 1/4” plates were drops and so were just $15 for the pair. Four 7/16” eyebolts and 3/8”shackles (galvanized all I could get) were about $35.

I think it’s a good solution especially if you need to test fit the body without any obstruction.

The unfinished wood A-frame thing in the car is just there to flop a tarp over the car so rain just runs off and doesn’t get in or on the body.

[23yrRebuild]

WOW ! You did it ! Way to go, and thanks for the good pics !

[ADR]

Whoop! I particularly enjoy the giant wood trolly. That's cool and shows that you definitely spent time planning this out!

[fairlane292]

Thanks guys. I’ll keep track of how many times I remove/replace body on chassis. Lots of chassis and body fitment mods to go. Datsun rearend and Ford 8.8 rearend heading out soon to differential shop to get the Ford one shortened to the width of the Datsun unit. Will correct the rear leaf attachment when the Ford 8.8 goes in. (Had quickly put the leafs in when the frame was upside down and got it wrong.)