Distributor removed and needs to be reset

[Griffin@1966]

Hello everyone, thankfully I have been able to find a lot of help by reading some of your comments as I have worked on my 1966 1600. So first off thank you so much for the help via your posts.

I have run into an issue resetting the timing on my 1600. Distributor was removed by previous owner and not put back to its removed state. I was hoping to get some advice on how best to tackle resetting the timing which includes the distributor gear. I set the crank to TDC and I can’t get the rotor to match #1 cylinder. Is there a specific orientation that the distributor gear slot to be. What I read so far was if the gear was removed to prime the oil pump to mark its orientation. I am guessing this was not done, this is why I am struggling to get the timing set or am I over thinking this.

Thanks in advance
Michael

[david premo]

Is it a stock distributor with points or is it an electronic distributor?

[Bwk2000]

Welcome! I think you’ll find this thread quite helpful Michael:

viewtopic.php?t=23607

[Gregs672000]

Good advice already... the linked topic should help. Ultimately you're going to want a timing light to finalize the timing, as you can get close by "static" timing the engine (setting the timing without the engine running) but it could still be off a few degrees, which does make a difference.

As written, first will be getting the drive gear in its proper position so it rotates in and gives you that "11:25" look for the slot. That can take several tries, as the oil pump slot needs to be positioned so that when the drive gear rotates in the key slides into the slot and sits down fully. You have to turn the oil pump using a screw driver a little bit at a time until the drive gear goes in fully and the drive gear slot is in the 11:25 position. Then the distributor will fit over that and the rotor will be pointing towards #1 plug wire on the distributor cap. There is a metal plate with a pointer on it that locks down the distributor that corresponds to a scale on the distributor pedestal but I've never used it for setting timing though I'm sure that is why it's there. Someone may be able to comment on where theirs is pointing to when timed correctly (again, that may get you close to start the car). Alternatively you can turn the engine by hand (via the crank bolt) to where the pointer on the front cover is aligned with the correct timing (16 degrees on a R16, non smog?) on the crankshaft pully (should have slots cut into it, with 0/TDC being the far left mark, then 5 degrees per slot/cut... 0, 5, 10, 15, 20), then switch on the key (not all the way to crank/start but to where it would be in while running), then rotate the distributor body until the points spark/open, then tighten the distributor lock bolt. Alternatively (and the only way if you have upgraded to the EI distributor and no points) you can install the distributor cap with the plug wires on them (don't forget the rotator too!), stick a screw driver into #1 wire and hold it (by the insulated handle) close enough to metal to get the spark to arch across, switch the key on, rotate the distributor until #1 sparks, and lock the distributor down. This is called "static timing" the engine. After all that, you will want to check it with a timing light, and you can get a decent one for not much money at Harbor Freight or similar... does not have to be fancy or expensive.

If you have a timing light you don't really have to mess with all the static timing crap... once everything is back together you can crank the engine and observe where the timing is while it's cranking and adjust the distributor accordingly until it fires up, then adjust the timing as needed (vac advance line disconnected).

If that's clear as mud, no worries... keep asking questions and we'll try to help! The gear can be quite frustrating and a hassle to slide in and back out as you try to get it aligned... it's probably going to require some patience so don't give up.

[Griffin@1966]

Thank you so Much for this detailed step by step Instructions Greg, this was very helpful. This engine has sat for quite some time by the looks of it and thankfully in a heated garage. I will tackle this over the weekend and let you know it goes.

On another note prior to my start attempts
I did a compression test and got #1 135psi, #2 135, #3 145 #4 140psi. Initially I got some popping out of the carbs and also noticed black soot on the inside of the carbs that were clean. Could this mean stuck exhaust valves or a head issue.

[theunz]

If you make sure that the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke then you will eliminate the chance of installing the distributor 180* out. You can check for the compression stroke by simply holding your finger over the spark plug as you turn the engine over.

[Griffin@1966]

Morning and thank you Mike, going to work on this labour of love today with the good advice.
Michael

[Griffin@1966]

Thanks for the great advice and resource material, I managed to get the timing set properly. I absolutely agree it was a test of patience and worked as expected. Still non starter, got quite a bit of black soot, sticky resin getting expelled from he carbs. Halted start attemp and pull of the head. Significant carbon fouling on valves and intake/exhaust ports, so will take the head in for some work. Small steps as he challenge continues.

Thanks again all
Cheers
Michael

[Griffin@1966]

Thanks for the great advice and resource material, I managed to get the timing set properly. I absolutely agree it was a test of patience and worked as expected. Still non starter, got quite a bit of black soot, sticky resin getting expelled from he carbs. Halted start attemp and pull of the head. Significant carbon fouling on valves and intake/exhaust ports, so will take the head in for some work. Small steps as the challenge continues.

Thanks again all
Cheers
Michael

[Gregs672000]

Sorry you're having to take it that far... let us know how it all works out... good luck!