R16 engine

[Gregs672000]

There's nothing I can think of that would involve the flywheel. Sounds like a main bearing. I'm assuming that all the main bearing caps etc are still in place. The rear main will not likely come out without a puller or a slide hammer as I described... it takes this kind of force, so you'll need to source a proper puller or go to your local autoparts store and buy a slide hammer. I'll see about posting a pic of my solution later today...

In the mean time don't continue to try and turn it... won't help and could cause more damage. Still, very very strange that it's seized... look closely for anything else... some broken part, something that's wedged into a place that's causing interference, maybe try rotating the other direction a small amount given its resistance... regardless, the bearing caps and crank need to come out.

[Gregs672000]

BTW, the flywheel bolts are allen head bolts (8mm? I'll check later) and you will not likely have the right socket on hand, though a autoparts store probably will.

[david premo]

If i were going to guess, I would think the rope seal is binding up from sitting so many years. It’s possible that due to it being dried out it is shredded itself under the rear main cap and is bunched up making it difficult to rotate the crankshaft. Nothing else really makes sense as the engine originally turned and has progressively gotten tighter.
Dave

[Gregs672000]

Rope seal, good guess. I could not locate my slide hammer... not sure how I misplaced such a thing but it's not where I expected. Nevertheless, it will work... use the nut on the end as a support that helps hold the bolt head against the "ledge" of the nut when you tape the bolt to the side of the rod itself so as to give a solid place for the bolt to resist the upward banging action of the weight (kinda hard to describe... a picture is worth a thousand words eh?). 5-10 smacks and it will pull up and off. The others may require some tapping but should not need any kind of puller.

The Allen head socket for the flywheel bolts is 5/16 (at least that's what I have and have used for years).

[Tynan]

I think I figured it out. The engine stand is pressed against the flywheel the whole time. Thought you only had to take the pressure plate off. Anyway I'm going to hone off this little bit of rust in the cylinders and see what's next.

[funkaholik]

The engine stand is pressed against the flywheel the whole time.

Been there, done that. When you finally realize what's wrong it's an interesting mix of relief that you've solved the problem and feeling dumb because you also caused it.

[Tynan]

The engine stand is pressed against the flywheel the whole time.

Been there, done that. When you finally realize what's wrong it's an interesting mix of relief that you've solved the problem and feeling dumb because you also caused it.

Glad I didn't try using all my strength to crank on it with the breaker bar

[Gregs672000]

Honestly, it had crossed my mind cause I'VE DONE THAT! HA!

Also, I want to make sure I'm not over explaining stuff... it's hard to know at a distance so I just try to be thorough.

Regarding honing, if you have not done it before there are some good YouTube videos worth watching.

[Tynan]

Honestly, it had crossed my mind cause I'VE DONE THAT! HA!

Also, I want to make sure I'm not over explaining stuff... it's hard to know at a distance so I just try to be thorough.

Regarding honing, if you have not done it before there are some good YouTube videos worth watching.

Everything you have said is very helpful. I watched some videos tonight at work. Almost getting confident enough to try it

[Tynan]

Should I hit that one again. This is my first time doing this. Cleaned up the surface rust rather nicely I think

[spl310]

It seems that I always need to add spacers to the engine stand offs on the engine stand. If they made them a half inch longer, it would be better.

[Tynan]

It seems that I always need to add spacers to the engine stand offs on the engine stand. If they made them a half inch longer, it would be better.

I could improve on the design easily. But for $80 I don't mind

[Gregs672000]

Well... I'm not sure exactly what you're asking... if you're thinking that they are anywhere near ready for new rings and pistons... um, no. No no no. The block must be inspected and measured by a trained machinist. There's waaaaay to much cylinder damage with just the vertical scratches in 2 and 3, and I don't know what else I'm seeing in those two...
This is going to need to be bored, perhaps more than one size up (?) I think, and this is where a machinist is required so it is properly measured and done correctly... this is precision work.
Also, the crank really needs to come out. You're exposing the rod bearing surfaces to abrasives and contamination, not good. In the future stages of this project, cleanliness will be critical in the rebuild phase. A small amount of crud can destroy an engine in short order!

[Tynan]

Pulling crank now. Dave said definitely bore. There's a ring ridge in at least 2 of the cylinders. We are making progress and learning as I go

[Gregs672000]

Pulling crank now. Dave said definitely bore. There's a ring ridge in at least 2 of the cylinders. We are making progress and learning as I go

Awesome man, that's the plan! You can do THIS! I encourage you to do a few YouTube searches for just about anything you might want to understand better (while also realizing that the quality of the info can vary!).