1000 mile shake down and oh what a ride!

[andyb]

So I finally got about 1000 miles on the car since completing the restoration in March of this year. Though I was registered for Solvang, I didn't have enough miles on it for a 400+ mile run and I'm glad I didn't as it was burning oil big time! about 3 quarts to the first 300 miles. ALL of the Tesla drivers behind me were frowning!
In May, I packed the house and moved cross country to East Tennessee, making my escape from an ever cost oppressive state. It took some time to get settled but did manage an inaugural ride through the Smoky Mountains taking both cars out on an epic ride of just under 150 miles.
At around 700 miles, the speedo went wonky (end of August) so I pulled it and had it sent off for repair as reported in a separate thread, which I got back last month.
The weather here in East Tennessee is mild and allows for rides with the top down even now in late December. The only other major problem until yesterday was a broken door hinge stopper retainer - the little piece of sandwiched metal the stopper passes thru busted off the A pillar, and the stopper fell into the A pillar cavity.
Yesterday, I took a ride on a stretch called "Tail of the Dragon" - about a 39 mile ride from home to Deal's Gap on the Tennessee / North Carolina boarder on hiway 129 - a very fun road indeed.

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I noticed my brake pedal feeling really hard, but there was plenty of stopping power... I noticed, when I'd back up and tap the brakes, the pedal softened (maybe just my imagination) - at the gas station and after a few stops and starts in traffic. by the end of the ride up the dragon, I was smelling burning brakes like they were dragging slightly.
there's no cell service up there...
being the Friday afternoon before Christmas, I pretty much had the road to myself. If I got stuck, I'd be waiting some time for someone to come by, so I figured I'd take it easy going home. The Dragon is an 11 mile stretch with 318 turns. about 7 or 8 turns in on the first slight down hill, the brake pedal went to the floor and the helpful little red "B" light came on informing me "my brakes are done".
I had no choice but to limp it along in 2nd and 3rd mostly at low speeds (posted speed limit is 30 - enthusiasts might manage 50 at best before eating it) mostly driving without using the brakes and occasionally using the hand brake. I managed to get to mile marker 9 to the one and only scenic overlook, had a signal and called the tow truck.

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Upon inspection, I noted no loss of brake fluid, and a weird crusty blue/clear residue on the splitter.

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I did have some minor weeping from these lines but it almost felt like the plunger in the splitter finally broke free (was totally stuck when I attempted to rebuild it). While the pedal was super spongy, there was a hint of brakes as the pedal neared the floor. probably had 10% of braking power.
Haven't had a chance to explore it yet, but there's no puddles of brake fluid on the garage floor, and I am grateful I was able to get it home without stacking it up. Of all places to loose brakes, that road wouldn't be my first choice.
But, on the positive, I'm not burning as much oil, and running the B cam, Solex, and JT's 2" stainless exhaust - this thing is a blast to drive!
Merry Christmas all! If you decide to run the Dragon, give me a buzz. I'm just around the corner (400 or so) from it.

[William]

That's a really nice color, nice work

[andyb]

Thanks! That's a 2017 or 2018 Alpha Romeo basalt gray.

[redroadster]

Is the brake lite still on if hooked up on the Safety Valve ? If so the rod isn't centered and thus one side frt or rear should be shut down
You really can't bleed that assy end caps they are assembled submerged in fluid the .5 " wide rod slides back and forth ...only if the pressure on a side is lost the clearance is only .0002- 2 ten thousands & the trapped air would have to make it past the fluid trying to get in

[andyb]

Yes I unplugged the lead as the "your brakes are done" light stays on with the key off.

[DAC21]

So what was the oil burning issue all about? Rings not seated yet?

[Gregs672000]

So what was the oil burning issue all about? Rings not seated yet?

Agreed... all four holes? What do the plugs look like? What kind of rings? Could be rings, could be valve stem seals. I had a rebuilt U20 engine that refused to stop burning oil that I thought was rings but turned out to be stem seals that were not sealing, possibly due to a misplaced shim (was under the seal/cap, and was moved inside the cap as I recall). The shop didn't think it was the problem but that was all he could think of... and it was, or at least that fixed it.

[andyb]

I think the oil burning is partly rings not being seated as the burn rate has gone way down. I've not measured yet but it's more like a half quart per tank (still a lot) so valve stem seals are likely part of the problem. I need to sort the brakes before I can do much else with it.

[Gregs672000]

I think the oil burning is partly rings not being seated as the burn rate has gone way down. I've not measured yet but it's more like a half quart per tank (still a lot) so valve stem seals are likely part of the problem. I need to sort the brakes before I can do much else with it.

Wishing you well... let us know if we can help!

[fj20spl311]

i might be wrong, going from memory of many years ago.........
If I recall correctly, those switch are only good for one failure, the end of the switch gets clipped off when the plunger is forced to one side.
the light will always thereafter be on.

[redroadster]

i might be wrong, going from memory of many years ago.........
If I recall correctly, those switch are only good for one failure, the end of the switch gets clipped off when the plunger is forced to one side.
the light will always thereafter be on.

No the rod is out of position the plunger sits in a groove when correct , the rod / piston needs to be returned back to the middle , he needs to loosen the good line , apply firm brake and maybe it will be pushed back into place , or if not careful it can go to far the other way .
Really you can connect the top line to the bottom on each side and do away with it , they call that thing the idiot switch , it had a purpose when you had only a single cyl master cyl , so if a line blew etc. It didn't drain all of the brake fluid , it's a late 1950s innovation
I put a new safety swt. on a 210 in about 80 the new swt was $370 + 88 airfreight from Asia

[JT68]

Hopefully there is nothing at all wrong with the switch. It sounds like it did exactly what it was supposed to do. Since the light went on WITH a brake failure it sounds like the switch did it's job. It is a differential pressure switch and closes when there is a significant difference in pressure between the front and rear circuits. There does not need to be an external leak. Air in one side or a bad master cylinder (generating pressure on one circuit, but not the other) OR an external leak will all cause the same result.

If the switch is in fact OK, once pressure is present again on both circuits (and the brakes are functioning normally with no leaks), the light should go off.

If the brakes were functioning perfectly and the light was on, that is an indication of a stuck switch, but since this was an actual brake failure, I'd suspect the master or a small leak somewhere. (anywhere in the system will do it)

It's really best not to take those switches apart, just clean with brake cleaner and compressed air. If it leaks or doesn't operate, just get another switch.

Glad you had a fun ride and got it stopped!! Happy that your are enjoying the exhaust too

[Gregs672000]

This is the only incident I've ever heard where the mysterious brake light switch actually operated! Glad you're ok!

[fj20spl311]

the rod is out of position the plunger sits in a groove when correct , the rod / piston needs to be returned back to the middle

This is what i remember.....the plastic plunger sits in a groove, the piston clips the plastic when it moves to the side.


I could be wrong

[JT68]

This is the only incident I've ever heard where the mysterious brake light switch actually operated! Glad you're ok!

If it is functioning, it should go on/off during bleeding of the brakes since you will create multiple situations where there is a large pressure differential between the front and rear (Like when you open a single bleeder). Of course you can test to make sure the circuit is intact with the s-brake knob and/or simply grounding that single connection at the switch.