More brake for less, Volvo brake swap

[fj20spl311]

The piston area of the Volvo set-up is almost exactly the same as the stock caliper. It is not going to make a huge difference.
for better braking, you need to change the Cf of the pads or increase the clamping force.

[zippy67roadster]

Good afternoon all,
I am in Europe, does anyone have a name or link for the supplier of the Volvo kit please?

I carry the mounting kit but you will need to source the rotors and calipers. You can find them at sincitydatsuns.com

[JT68]

The piston area of the Volvo set-up is almost exactly the same as the stock caliper. It is not going to make a huge difference.
for better braking, you need to change the Cf of the pads or increase the clamping force.

As I recall it is actually about 25% less piston surface area-so it was never a good answer. The Volvo calipers were designed for power assist (higher fluid pressures). The mod was popular for a while because it was cheap.

The Spriso kit or a properly designed Wilwood setup is way better. For 14" wheels, the stock brakes are perfectly fine if kept in good repair.

[fj20spl311]

As I recall it is actually about 25% less piston surface area-so it was never a good answer. The Volvo calipers were designed for power assist (higher fluid pressures). The mod was popular for a while because it was cheap.

The Spriso kit or a properly designed Wilwood setup is way better. For 14" wheels, the stock brakes are perfectly fine if kept in good repair.

HA HA HA at 75 my memory is better than yours LOL
I agree the Volvo set-up is not a good choice, but the pistons are 38 mm so the effective area is 3.5^inches and the roadster are 2.125 which is also 3.5^inches....the effective area on a multi piston caliper is total area/2....
btw, one of my cars has the Volvo set, soon to be changed .....

[JT68]

Probably depends on the year/model-Those might be different calipers possibly for vented discs, later versions etc. There were many variations of those calipers some with dual fluid paths, some without. At least one set that we had definitely were 32.5mm pistons. So that is about 2.5 inches squared so that's a little under 75%!

So we are both correct and agree there are lots of better options!

[ppeters914]

Carl Jaeger at New-Datsun-Parts has them:

http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun- ... rakes.html

FWIW, after discovering my 3 sets of stock brake calipers were toast, I went with the Techno Toy Tuning Wilwood Big Brake Kit.

https://technotoytuning.com/front-micro ... -roadster/

It's mostly a simple remove & replace process, especially after they redesigned the mounting brackets (different than in the picture). T3 is also a model on how customer service should be. I had to use three 1/8-inch spacers (available from FutoFab) per wheel in order to space out the stock 14-inch wheels. I cannot comment on the stopping power yet as I only have 10 miles on the car. Still quite a bit to finish and sort out.

[fj20spl311]

I went with the Techno Toy Tuning Wilwood Big Brake Kit.

I cannot comment on the stopping power yet as I only have 10 miles on the car. Still quite a bit to finish and sort out.

what size pistons are the TTT Wilwood kits 1.62 or 1.75?

[ppeters914]

I went with the Techno Toy Tuning Wilwood Big Brake Kit.

I cannot comment on the stopping power yet as I only have 10 miles on the car. Still quite a bit to finish and sort out.

what size pistons are the TTT Wilwood kits 1.62 or 1.75?

1.38

https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Calipe ... =120-13839

[JT68]

So that is 15% less than stock. It will certainly work, and brake fade won't be an issue, but the pedal effort will be higher for an equivalent stopping distance to original brakes in decent shape. (higher pedal effort doesn't do your firewall any good either)

Brake systems are all about the math and lots of folks get it wrong.

Suggest you add a firewall brace from Dave or Stan (the guys who invented them) That will reduce firewall flex and help with transmitting your leg effort to the rotors. With the smaller pistons the pedal should be nice and firm with the stock 3/4" master.

With the firewall brace and the high quality Wilwood pads, it should be about equivalent to stock with the benefits of an improved caliper design.

If that kit came with stainless fasteners, I'd suggest you swap them all to grade 8,10 or 12 high strength steel fasteners. (That issue was identified by another roadster owner, not me) Stainless is the wrong material for caliper bolts.

[ppeters914]

So that is 15% less than stock. It will certainly work, and brake fade won't be an issue, but the pedal effort will be higher for an equivalent stopping distance to original brakes in decent shape. (higher pedal effort doesn't do your firewall any good either)

Brake systems are all about the math and lots of folks get it wrong.

Suggest you add a firewall brace from Dave or Stan (the guys who invented them) That will reduce firewall flex and help with transmitting your leg effort to the rotors. With the smaller pistons the pedal should be nice and firm with the stock 3/4" master.

With the firewall brace and the high quality Wilwood pads, it should be about equivalent to stock with the benefits of an improved caliper design.

If that kit came with stainless fasteners, I'd suggest you swap them all to grade 8,10 or 12 high strength steel fasteners. (That issue was identified by another roadster owner, not me) Stainless is the wrong material for caliper bolts.

Well......poop. Good to know, but..... On the plus side, they're lighter and prettier and no damn crossover tubes.

The main reasons I went that route were time and availability, otherwise I would've sent my stock ones out to Karp's.

My firewall was fine, but I still installed one of Mister Premo's excellent braces.

I think they were steel, but will need to double-check.

[JT68]

yep, way lighter caliper and much nicer design no doubt, I like the WW products, we have used lots of them

Great on the brace-pedal should feel excellent.

[Handlebar]

Tech