convertible top frame restoration

[bossbob]

So, what is the best way to restore the top frame starting with the surface rust. I know some of you have done them. Any advice is appreciated.

THanks.

[iloveredmeat]

Hey Bob,
I've done a couple of these now, and it's pretty straightforward... but a lot of manual labor, not a lot of shortcuts that I found.

I'm going to just shotgun a bunch of images that may or may not help.

I also replaced every screw and washer with stainless, and D P on this forum posted a complete list of hardware needed. See below.

One frame was in very good shape, and really just needed dismantling, some cleaning up, and painting.

I hand-sanded any minor rust there was. Then a couple of good coats of primer and then 2+ coats of "Cast Iron" color spray paint. To make sure I got all of the nooks and crannies, I hung and painted the frame sides in the open and closed positions. That's all pretty straightforward.

It was missing one rivet, and so I made a sleeve-nut panhead screw with a nylon insert washer that was kind of complicated, but was a perfect solution. No play at all.

The bow did have some pitting, so I painted with a 'filler' primer and sanded, and filled and sanded, etc. Spray painting the bow with a semi-gloss black paint was the hardest part for me, mainly because I suck at spray painting. I think on my personal bow, I'm going to go all-out and wrap it with material like original.

The second frame was in rough shape and took a lot more time and effort. Much more rust, so I soaked it in Purple Power or Simple Green before wire-wheeling and hand-sanding.

Many of the nylon washers in the hinges had disintegrated, so I ended up buying nylon washers, and cutting a wedge shape out of them to make a snap ring, so they could 'snap' over the rivet hinges. Those worked perfectly, it eliminated the wobbly play that the bad washers caused, and were super smooth opening and closing.

I finished the second frame with Eastwood Clear Zinc, which is more expensive, more OEM, but is not a lot different than 'silver' - though it does have a nice blueish tint.

Reassembly is a little wonky, so I started with one screw on each side of the cross members, closest to center, not overly tightened, and that allowed for a little bit of play which I needed to get some of the second and/or third screws inline. Then I tightened everything up and voila.

If I can do it, anyone can. Good luck!

[iloveredmeat]

... More photos...

[bossbob]

Thanks Pete,

So what your saying, is that I should ship mine to you right??? Just kidding, thanks for the hardware list and photos, that helps a lot. Maybe I'll have it done here in the next couple months.

[iloveredmeat]

Thanks Pete,

So what your saying, is that I should ship mine to you right??? Just kidding, thanks for the hardware list and photos, that helps a lot. Maybe I'll have it done here in the next couple months.

Ha!

I can only stand to do one more – luckily, I found an original in amazing condition, so shouldn't be too difficult.

I look forward to seeing yours all done.

pm

[23yrRebuild]

Thanks for your valuable input and pics, Peter...I've considered the idea of having the soft top frame of my '67, "barrel Nickel plated" for some time... I'm thinking it might look pretty cool, without looking too bold or gaudy, as chrome plating might look. I would appreciate any opinions and /or comments about this idea...good, or not so good, are welcomed. Thanks.

[iloveredmeat]

Thanks for your valuable input and pics, Peter...I've considered the idea of having the soft top frame of my '67, "barrel Nickel plated" for some time... I'm thinking it might look pretty cool, without looking too bold or gaudy, as chrome plating might look. I would appreciate any opinions and /or comments about this idea...good, or not so good, are welcomed. Thanks.

Hey Mike, I'm glad to hear that info may have helped.

Regarding "barrel Nickel plated" – that's an interesting idea, and everything is subjective of course, but that could be really nice... less 'gaudy' than chrome for sure, but I do think it would definitely be brighter than the original clear zinc. The really nice original frame I have is most definitely clear-zinced, and I may do that if I can find a local place that can fit the parts in their tanks (the place I've use so far is a few inches short).

But if I can't, the thing I liked about the "cast iron" paint is that it does contrast the fabric, but may not stand out too much (as I imagine the top closed while I'm sitting inside).

I'm undecided on what I'm going to do, too, but I encourage you to grab some 'cast iron' paint and check out the color... not original, but kinda cool.

Looking forward to your solution, good luck!

PM