Since the old single thread was getting too long again. Creating a new forum where you can ask your questions and if you get them answered -please indicate the issue was resolved or not.
I've been told a couple things by a close relative that I suspect isn't the correct way to fix this car.
First, I have holes in the floorboards and plan to do a full body-off restoration in a few years. I want to get this back on the road first. I've been told to just fiberglass the holes and move on. To be honest, I'd be embarrassed to show up to an event with fiber-glassed floors. I have a wire-feed welder but haven't actually welded anything, so welding in patches today is not a great solution. If I go ahead and learn to weld on the floorboards it will set back the project by a few months. Should I go forward with the fiberglass floorboard sin?
Second, I'm told repeatedly that I need to run a lead additive in the fuel. I know older cars used leaded fuel but does this include the Roadster? I haven't seen mention of that in the forum.
-Landon
'69 Datsun 1600 Roadster (Basket-Case)
'06 Scion xA (Daily and track car)
'85 Toyota MR2 (Basket-Case Converting to Electric)
If you’re doing a full frame off later on, I would just go the route of pop riveting in temporary metal patches and using epoxy to seal up the edges. Save the welding for the Full Monty restoration.
As for a leaded fuel additive, my advice would be not to bother unless you plan to race it. If you plan to redline it frequently, you may melt the soft seated valves (assuming that’s what’s in there now), a lead additive would help prevent that. Just use high octane fuel and you’ll be fine. I would however recommend using a zinc additive (ZDDP) to every oil change. It will help reduce wear and quiet things down a bit as well.
Kai
Halifax, N.S. ’69 SPL311 Sports 1600
Classic Cars - Because clean fingernails, free weekends, intact knuckles and financial stability are totally overrated.
I hadn't thought of pop-riveting temp patches in. That's a great idea. It would be way easier to remove those and prep the surface for the final repair at a later date than a fiberglass mess. Thanks, I think this is the way forward.
I have a bad habit of taking engines to redline many times during a drive. I might not get away with it for long it sounds. I am sourcing a new head, so I probably should make sure the valves aren't soft or change them if they are.
I will make sure to use that zinc additive in the oil. Thanks for all the advice.
'69 Datsun 1600 Roadster (Basket-Case)
'06 Scion xA (Daily and track car)
'85 Toyota MR2 (Basket-Case Converting to Electric)
The aircraft pop rivets have a thin head ( rod breaks flush ) I did my wheel arches that way , you can only tack weld in new steel the old steel will melt quick
Datsun dealer tech 76 to 87
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
Agree with the riveted panels for now. Lead additives to fuel are probably not that important... anybody with a stock R or U head with brass seats using it? Valvoline VR1 10/30 Racing oil will serve you well.
WELCOME!
I've done a 66 in fiberglass, not much mess, and probably as strong as stock. Still going strong 2 or 3 years later. Is someone going to inspect the bottom of your car, or lift the carpets? Hopefully pics to follow. Get your car on the road, then decide what to do. Pat
