need some opinions

perryT200 · Post by **perryT200** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:30 pm

i own 3 1600s. two from 67 (low) and one from 69.

in the registry i bought SPL311-08330 and SPL311-08209 a couple years ago.

then i bought
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWN%3AIT

one of the 67's ran then lost spark. it is currently getting a new floor pan weilded in. i am planning on the EI from whats his name in Nov/Dec.

the other 67 had the motor out and semi disassembled. the 69 i just picked up has no spark plugs and missing some parts.

which one of you die hard restorers wants to take two motors, a ton of motor parts and make one that runs?

and who wants to tell me what is the cheapest engine swap that is reliable? i plan on sending my daughter to school in one of these, and i need reliable, cheap and easy.

(granted she just turned 10, but i don't work the fastest) and she will not need speed, just a cool car that is reliable.

to recap, the goal is to have 2 (out of three) running on stock 1600 motors, and one on cheap and hopefully more reliable.

I am in southern Illinois, if someone wants to do some motor work for parts and cash; i am all ears.

thoughts?

Post by **dbrick** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 12:12 am

The original 1600 motor is probably as reliable as any swap. The carbs and ignition are the weak points, if any. The only big difference on a swap is fuel injection and better parts availability, sometimes. Lots of people have these as daily drivers. Good electronic ignition and a set of really good rebuilt carbs will cost less than most swaps.

IMHO, Knowlege (and free time) is the biggest thing. If you aren't doing the work yourself, might as well buy her a 3 year old Miata instead of paying all the labor to someone to do the swap.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 11:36 am

I agree with Dave completely. If the goal is cheap, reliable, transportation for your daughter, take the $2,500 you'll spend on a engine swap and put it in a mutual fund for the next 8 years until she goes off to college. Then, take your $4,000 (or whatever it ends up being) out and buy her a used late model Miata.

Besides, what happens if at age 17 your daughter decides that next year she absolutely has to attend the University of Wisconsin? A 40 year old Datsun isn't exactly the best car for that environment.

nomadtrash · Post by **nomadtrash** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 1:23 pm

If you are set on having a Datsun and doing a swap then I vote for the KA24DE. It is very reliable, easy to find, cheap, and common for the swap. The SR20DE is a good motor too but they were not offered in the US so they are harder to find and more expensive since they have to be imported. The swap is a little more involved with the SR20DE. I've got one for sale if you are interested.

Thanks,

perryT200 · Post by **perryT200** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 11:43 pm

lol, hit close to home. i am a stock broker so her college is already funded.

because of that i am tight, but for the moment lets drop "cheap" and concentrate on "easy" and "reliable".

i have one of the '67 motors on a stand. need pistons, rings, bearings, maybe push rods (rusted) and carbs totally redone. probably will need to be bored .10 over. add in EI and i would be up to a few dollars in parts.

i had the local machine shop drop in a '73 Pinto 1600 English (Kent crossflow) motor and tranny into a bare frame before i read this board. i can get parts for it but it won't be totally easy. i can cut it out in about 10 min, if needed.

i just bought the '69 because it was still a 1600, had the higher windshield (i am 6'4"), and had a hardtop incase she decided on WU. no plugs in the motor when i picked it up tells me total overhaul. missing carb parts tells me more and more money.

to start, while i have a bunch of parts (one of the '67s had a full set of new brakes installed and koni shocks, and i have plastic tubs and tubs of carb and misc parts) overall these things are rougher than a night in jail.

interiors are shot, no soft tops, only one soft top frame, need body work and paint, redone one floor pan the second is at the shop. best described with that standard "barn fresh" saying.

i don't mind doing all that work but i didn't want to do my own engine rebuild, i don't want to spend a lot of money on motor parts if it would be easier and more reliable to do a motor swap.

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Sat Sep 09, 2006 12:39 pm

Here's your engine swap right here. From the roadster list:

Howdy list, been on the road for Uncle Sam 10 plus
months and I found a kickass project that I would like
the room for, I came across a 1961 Impala, 348 4
speed, posi. saying that I need to tighten the belt.

Completely rebuilt U-20, new timing gears throughout,
head worked, new, new, receipts for all machining and
parts. complete long block. $3500 in engine. have
pics.
$1400 .

Five speed, unknown internals, will throw in new
gasket set and seals. prolly needs welded fifth,
untested and dirty. Previous list owner says good.
$400

Italian Solexes (addhe) these are 48's, yep two
sidedraft stamped 48's. unsure of exact fitment to
solex intake but worth a shot, I dont have a solex
intake handy. E-bay purchase, $325 "alfa 1750' on e
bay has kits.

Four speed, pulled from wrecked car in the early 70's,
nice as they come, low, low mileage.very nice, still
looks shiny new.
$300

Give me a call, I dont have to sell, but would like
to.

Eric Johnson, Imperial Beach, Ca

619-429-8610

For $1800 you'll have a completely re-built U20 with a 5 speed trans to match. The "swap" into your 1600 chassis takes minimal work. It's as close to a direct bolt in as you'll ever come. You'll have a solid, reliable, powertrain for cheap.

My biggest concern with you swapping something like a KA24 or SR20 into this car and sending your daughter off in it is that if it breaks down on her, a lot of shops are going to be very reluctant to touch the thing. However, with a straight U20 swap in there, most any mechanic can troubleshoot the thing and get her back on the road.

perryT200 · Post by **perryT200** » Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:31 pm

Dave, i live in the boonies. there isn't a shop inside of 50 miles that wouldn't just close the hood and send me on my way with dual side draft carbs anyway.

before winter i am gonna try and get the Pinto motor to run, the first 67 ran tonight when we figured out the bad wire, and take the other 2 1600's and get them to run as one.

a bit of cash and a ton of work, but i guess it will happen.

Import_sounds-of-mid-GA · Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:53 pm

i definately wouldnt put a 2000 in for a daily driver. I have soo much trouble tryin to get parts for mine and uses so much money to do so. Id think if you are wanting to do a swap do a ford 2.3 swap. Easy to work on, cheap to maintain.

TurboRagtop · Post by **TurboRagtop** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 11:44 pm

Agree with Evan. I have run the Ford 2.3L engine in my 1600 for the last 18 years or so, and yep, they are cheap and easy to find parts for. Plus you can have the NA or turbo version; I have run both. First the NA, then upgraded to turbo.
A lot of work, but mine has now turned into a stone reliable daily driver, and that is what I always wanted. I can keep it running for as long as Ford sells parts for it.

Post by **dbrick** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 12:21 am

If I were to do the swap, the Ford isn't a bad choice If the mounts are the same , find a pinto/mustang 2.0 or 2.3 and 5 speed I think the Capris were similar. I had a 2.3 in an MGTD kit car, it was great. Factory progressive Weber, electronic ignition, parts available anywhere. Clutch linkage may be an issue if the Ford is a cable clutch, but not a big one. If the cars are that ratty and you want reliable, get a Painless or similar wiring harness and do the whole car. If you need to spend $$ on the brakes, get the stainless lined calipers. As far as which car, I have a 69 and just got a 66. Very different cars on the road as far as driving feel. Late 69 has the more modern steering box, collapsible column dual master cylinder and is considered by some less "collectible" value wise. If I were to go totally non stock, engine, trans, wire harness etc, I would do the 69. I like the seating position and the view from the 66 better, but my 69 has better steering and in your case, you have a hardtop.

Last thought, send her to school on the west coast, better chance of a Datsun mechanic.

PS, f your Daughter is anything like mine, when she hits 17 she may not want to be caught dead in an old car, until you sell it, that is and then she will want it back.

perryT200 · Post by **perryT200** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:12 am

PS, f your Daughter is anything like mine, when she hits 17 she may not want to be caught dead in an old car, until you sell it, that is and then she will want it back.

Mr Brisco, please don't scare me like that. it isn't nice.

figure the Sora Blue (any powder blue and tell her it is) then powder coat dark blue the rims and probably the bumpers.

a CD player with an Ipod hookup gets me all the tunes.

i hope it works.

Post by **dbrick** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 6:13 pm

My daughter is now bugging me for a ride, she's 19 now. Don't let her attitude at 17 scare you, that's the easy years. 12 to 16 is when the real fear and confusion starts (you will be the one scared and confused). To preserve sanity, spent lots of time in the garage

Then again, I have some friends who breezed through their daughters teen years, so there is hope. Probably the biggest thing would be to have her work on the car with you, that way it's her effort too.

My greatest early accomplishment with my daughter was her bedroom door. She got new carpet, and the door dragged the carpet and the hinge squeaked. I didn't fix either one, this gave me a slam-proof door, which was very entertaining to watch her try to slam it, and the hinge was an early warning device that she was up at night. I had already planted thorn bushes under her windows. A good defense is a good offense.

Just to be fair, she turned out OK. I have grey hair at 42 and a nervous twitch, but she is becoming an actual adult human being.