devo wrote: ↑Mon Jun 13, 2022 12:52 pm
I used this one. Looks exactly like my original and the same as what is shown on vendor sites. Threads were correct as well. Works like a champ.
Nice I hadn't seen that P/N pop up before, I only knew about the SLS-178 from a posting from 12 years ago from 23yrRebuild. The two P/N look identical, but maybe some internal differences? Did you buy the cheapest "T" model?
devo wrote: ↑Mon Jun 13, 2022 12:52 pm
I used this one. Looks exactly like my original and the same as what is shown on vendor sites. Threads were correct as well. Works like a champ.
Nice I hadn't seen that P/N pop up before, I only knew about the SLS-178 from a posting from 12 years ago from 23yrRebuild. The two P/N look identical, but maybe some internal differences? Did you buy the cheapest "T" model?
I Think I bought the more expensive one at only $2 more. I recognized the part as a Ford part from having had a lot of old Fords. In comparing, It was identical to the original Datsun part on my '66.
Curtis wrote: ↑Sun Jun 12, 2022 3:52 pm
That's a good price. They rarely go bad. Changing to 67.5 brake switch is a lot of work and not worth it.
Any way to test the switch by itself?
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off started in 2014. Now I know why roadster projects take so long. What a stupid idea.
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a RAV4 Hybrid, and a motorcycle
Curtis wrote: ↑Sun Jun 12, 2022 3:52 pm
That's a good price. They rarely go bad. Changing to 67.5 brake switch is a lot of work and not worth it.
Any way to test the switch by itself?
See the fifth post here
Sorry. I meant test the switch on the bench. I have a bare, rolling shell that is just now going together; no hydraulics, no wiring, no nada.
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off started in 2014. Now I know why roadster projects take so long. What a stupid idea.
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a RAV4 Hybrid, and a motorcycle
ppeters914 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 13, 2022 7:22 pm
Any way to test the switch by itself?
See the fifth post here
Sorry. I meant test the switch on the bench. I have a bare, rolling shell that is just now going together; no hydraulics, no wiring, no nada.
At this price ($4.34) maybe not worth the time. At the stage you are at you will sending a lot of Sheckles to Roackauto. So start a list. I have a 1967 and can send you along a list of parts like hoses I found there.
Ohms test , all you need is the mutimeter and a way to get to the swt. Wiring hook a POS wire into the swt. ( With a circuit breaker online) see if it pulls current
And check volts , a way I liked to check something like this, was hook a tiny buzzer in to the system then move wiring and connector's, if it buzzes that's likely the problem ...most electric problems at the dealer are handled by the 20-30 yr old guys that can contort to access the under dash area ....got a teen around ?
Datsun dealer tech 76 to 87
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
redroadster wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 5:58 pm
Ohms test , all you need is the mutimeter and a way to get to the swt. Wiring hook a POS wire into the swt. ( With a circuit breaker online) see if it pulls current
And check volts , a way I liked to check something like this, was hook a tiny buzzer in to the system then move wiring and connector's, if it buzzes that's likely the problem ...most electric problems at the dealer are handled by the 20-30 yr old guys that can contort to access the under dash area ....got a teen around ?
This is what I'm looking at:
....
brake switch.jpg
....
I'm retired IT, understand basic electricity and troubleshooting, wired a house, and rewired several Harleys. I'm guessing that swt means switch and POS means Positive, but, I'm sorry, I don't understand what you're suggesting.
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Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off started in 2014. Now I know why roadster projects take so long. What a stupid idea.
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a RAV4 Hybrid, and a motorcycle
Ok that's good you are skilled in electrical work , I thought otherwise , I guess
Seems to me you need to be specific in how and what you tested and the results for us to fully understand
Did you test the neg side at the tail lite bulb ,that takes away the 1st half of the system then it's just tracing bake
Datsun dealer tech 76 to 87
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
redroadster wrote: ↑Wed Jun 15, 2022 8:41 pm
Ok that's good you are skilled in electrical work , I thought otherwise , I guess
Seems to me you need to be specific in how and what you tested and the results for us to fully understand
Did you test the neg side at the tail lite bulb ,that takes away the 1st half of the system then it's just tracing bake
There's the problem. You're confusing me (ppeters914) with the OP (MichaelClay). I don't know what Michael's knowledge or skill level is regarding electrical stuff.
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off started in 2014. Now I know why roadster projects take so long. What a stupid idea.
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a RAV4 Hybrid, and a motorcycle
What Tests Have you completed ? In detail & where did you start ? It kinda sounds like your goofing about this .
I get it the flat dash type are hard or to pull the dash to access , but you could narrow down easier to work on parts of the system
BTW , I've been to Datsun , Nissan Mitsubishi, Kia ,
Volvo, Jeep/ Eagle &Toyota electrical school 3-4 day sessions
Votec also
Last edited by redroadster on Thu Jun 16, 2022 1:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Datsun dealer tech 76 to 87
Mitsubishi tech 9 yrs
Volvo, Kia, Toyota too
6 month - Rolls Royce
ASE MASTER TECH 96. - 11
70 SPL 86 Z31 T , Sportster
Stupid question. The brake switch is basically fused to the proportioning valve? I’m soaking it in wd40 and I’m going to get a socked to fit it. I’m afraid I may pull the whole assembly off the car and/or break something. Any ideas? I don’t think it would be a good idea to get a torch in that area to heat it up.
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