Starting my rebuilt R16

[roadsterdude1600]

I started my rebuilt 1600 yesterday on the rolling chassis. Never done this before so it was nerve wracking to say the least. I have read the threads, and I did the rebuild myself, only having the block hot tanked and having the machine shop polish the crank, hone the cylinder bores and fit new cam bearings. The engine was in very nice shape when I tore it down and was totally unknown to me, but the basket case car (in pieces) that it was in showed 52K on the clock, and I believe that from the engine internals. Standard bore and I reused the pistons, new rods bolts and bearings. Followed instructions in the Roadster Book.

Initially I had the dizzy off 180 - why does that always seem to happen - but when it would not fire and I got loud pops, I knew something was wrong, so I reset the dizzy at TDC (COMPRESSION STROKE) at the 11:25 position (it could be 11:22 or 11:38 for all I know) and it started up and ran! How hard is it to get that oil pump slot in the correct position to drop in the dist. I must have re-tried 50 times! I am pretty sure it is right now but a quick question. Should my static timing be set at 0 or 16 BTDC. I have a non-smog set up using an EI. at 0 the rotor is past #1 (counter clockwise) so at 16 BTDC it is pointing at #1.. Is that correct, or am I a tooth off. I was afraid to run it very long before I was sure.

It ran, but wanted a lot of choke, and would die once I tried to back off the choke even a little bit, which does not seem right, but not sure how a tight unbroken in engine would perform.

Also, since I am reusing my original cam, is there a need for the 2K RPM 20-minute cam break-in, or can I break this in at an idle or lower RPM before changing the oil and buttoning everything up awaiting reattaching the body (After I finish body work and painting). I know I am asking the right crowd.

Oh, and I was able to test my tranny which I went through but did not rebuild. All the gears worked, but I did not try to shift white it was running.

BTW I did prime the engine by spinning the oil pump cc with my drill, and also spun the engine with the starter and plugs out and a squirt of oil in each hole before the start-up. Without this forum I would have never attempted all this, but I research old threads all the time - Thank you guys! And yes, I will post some pics if I can remember how

[Solex68]

Liked...
"How hard is it to get that oil pump slot in the correct position to drop in the dist. I must have re-tried 50 times! "
Been there before.

[redroadster]

Did you crank it s plugs out for ....a minute , 5x s.
I strongly recommend it even though you ran the pump .
Then to start on only 1 spark plugs contacted for 1-2 min. Adding others later .
It ran ? ...check with timing lite, static timing helps to check it , I find .
If it has the cyl. Honed and cranks slow high compression engine s will backfire more thru the intake
Seeming of time
I'd check turning torque of the engine with 0 compression

[Gregs672000]

Non smog should be static timed to 16 degrees, then checked with a timing light once running. The choke is needed when the engine is cold but also indicates that there will need to be adjustments to the carbs. Do you have a unisyn or similar (I like the snail... see the post "Adventures in carb tuning") to check airflow? Try turning the dials on both carbs down a turn... that should richen it up. After it does a bit more running, pull the plugs and see if they are burning even (look all the same) and are not black or white (rich/lean). Regarding the cam breaking in process, if the cam was uncut and the pushrods are on the same lobes as before, I don't think you need to worry about a break in. If the rods were moved to different cylinders, I DON'T KNOW if you need to be concerned on a pushrod engine, but it does make a difference on an overhead cam (U20) engine. What you're doing is laying down a wear pattern between the two surfaces. Each one is unique and moving rocker arms (on a U20) could cause wear when the patterns no longer match.

[roadsterdude1600]

Greg, thanks for that. It sounds like I do have it static timed correct with the rotor pointing to # 1 at 16 BTDC. Now I am more confident about starting it again. I am posting a couple of pix, and will take a video to share if I can upload it to YouTube tomorrow. I did make sure the push rods and piston rods etc. were all put back where they came from. Glad to know the break-in will not be as critical, but still walking on eggs here. Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I'll update later in the week.

[Gregs672000]

You bet, I certainly can relate to that first start moment! Congrats! Now you just need to check the airflow in the carbs, adjust the fuel ratio, confirm timing is at 16 and advancing as expected, watch for leaks and break it in when it's back together. Things are coming along!

[redroadster]

16 deg is factory specs ? Seems high
No real prob running it retarded some , big prob advanced too much , remember old spec s were on
96-98 octane and he's on 89-91
Have a fire ext it 2 , I got my lumina running spraying carb spray , the last time bit to much & had a big extinguisher it took all of it to put out the backfire fire got it with the last little spray ....whew

[roadsterdude1600]

Thanks all. Yep I have a fire extinguisher at the ready, but she fires right up with no complaint now. I just need 4 hands and two bodies so I can keep it running at the right RPM to use the timing light and do carb adjustments. I will have to wait until I can get my brother here so someone can play the carb flute while I run around with the timing light. Anyway, I feel better that it does "live" and thanks for the expert advice. You cannot learn this stuff without some trial & error.