Best way to get 15-25 HP in SU 2000?

Tech tips and how to's

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RC240z
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Post by RC240z »

Most of us will never drive our cars at the top speed of 123 mph (Victor might be the exception).
Hey Howard R, Only Victor!! Geez....maybe on the street....

I look to run my roadster at top speed every chance I get. Mind you, I am doing this on a race track, but still I know that I have run my car at +7400 RPM in 5th on the banking at California Speedway, in excess of 120MPH.
67.5 2000, SRL 311 000305 Solex
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check out my blog at www.rcnetworksracing.com
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SLOroadster
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Post by SLOroadster »

I've run mine to 7000 rpm in 5th on the street a few times. :shock: I have no clue how fast that is with the 4.11, but the car is looking to fly. I got to around 6700 down the front straight at thunderhill in July.
Seriously the 4.11 is a little short for long freeway trips, but passing in 5th isn't a problem (80 mph is sitting on the top of the torque curve.)

Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
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dbrick
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Post by dbrick »

Lots of options, all have merit. Did I miss an answer, is it a smog car or not? If you drive the car and want mor seat of the pants accelleration I would go with the rear axle ratio swap first , cheaper and easily reversable if it isn't what you like, then if it is a 4 speed 1600, go to a 5 speed. I've also been told you can swap a 4 speed in place of a 5 speed and get more low end grunt, closer ratios, but a loss of top end and highway economy, good for autocross and local driving.

If you want to do the whole SR20 or some other major swap, may as well buy a car with great body & suspension and no engine, like the restoration projects that pop up for sale occasionally.

A wise man once told me 2 things
"Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?"
"If you have a Chevette and enough money, you can build a very fast Chevette, but a stock Corvette is cheaper and faster"

Dave Brisco

Take my advice, I'm not using it"

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GoldHawg
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Post by GoldHawg »

I am not familiar with the H20 stroker 1600 option, nor the SU throttle body EFI conversion. Any links to get me down towards my roadster PhD?

Also, I saw in another section some discussion of getting chevy valves machined to put on the 2000 head to let it rev higher. Any technical info describing exactly what needs to be done? Any shops that specialize in selling the valvetrain upgrades?

Thx for all your help
steve68

Post by steve68 »

i switched a r16 for a u20, i left the 4 speed in (lower gear in first) and now it has the 3.9 rear...wow!!! can you say sideways shifting to 2nd?

I believe you will be very pleasntly surprised with the power of a stock u20.

Steve
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nomadtrash
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Post by nomadtrash »

http://www.jenvey.co.uk/
http://picasso.org/mjlj/?q=taxonomy/page/or/1
http://www.injectionperfection.com.au/
http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm

Here are some injection and fuel management links. There are SU replacement throttle bodies that have injectors built in. You can also get a screw-in injector bung that fits in the smog port on the SU or Mikuni manifold.

I was going to build a FI system for my 2000 but did a KA swap instead. I have a complete Toyota TVIS injection system from an MR2 that I was going to use for parts. I was going to use screw-in bungs on an SU manifold and build a plenum with a single throttle body. I got bogged down on the distributror which would have needed parts from the Datsun and parts from the Toyota grafted together. I'm sure If I had studied the problem a little more that I would have come up with a good solution.

The KA24DE swap was simple and cheap compared to the challenges of injecting the U20. It has more power than most U20's could even dream of having.

In my opinion you would be better off doing a KA24DE swap instead of trying to get a bunch of power out of the U20. If you just want to be different then the injected U20 would be really cool.

Later,
Andy Cost
Roadster-less

Bolt on modification? I did use some bolts!
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