Going to tackle trans output and pinion seals, tips here pls

[cbez]

I have Timken 1979 ready for the pinion seal and it looks like 710324 will fit the 4 speed output?

Jack up the rear, undo the rear driveshaft bolts, pull the whole thing out of the trans?

I have done a pinion seal before just by marking the the nut and getting it back to the same spot.

Any special wisdom or tricks to share? Any of the seals/flanges a pain to remove?

I am leaking bad from both, slinging all over the undercarriage (see photos) and seems smart to tackle at the same time.

[Habitat.pat]

Either drain them or have a catch pan ready for the fluid!

Peace,
Pat

[unklpat]

I wish my car was that clean underneath. Pat

[cbez]

That's why I'm bummed knowing I'm flinging oil all over and on my exhaust!

[theunz]

I changed my pinion seal while I had the 3rd member on my bench. It was a bear to get the old one out. Be prepared! Actually think it might be easier with it still in the axle housing.

[cbez]

Well, trans seal fought a bit coming out. Differential seal popped right out with a wrench.

Neither looked terribly bad, but they're both 20+ years old and sat dry, so they're stiff. There was either some wear or an intentional groove on the diff flange sealing surface.

There was a big ding in the trans output side where the out edge of the seal rides (not all the way thru, more 'inside'), so I put a little permatex in there to take up the space.

Getting back in was a pain on both, working under the car. Would have probably taken a quarter of time with a lift but I don't have access to one with covid going on. Used my crank socket on the trans and the flange itself on the diff followed by wood block + hammer.

I'll add fluids tomorrow, I want to thread seal all the trans cover bolts while I'm down there.

(as they sat)

[23yrRebuild]

There was either some wear or an intentional groove on the diff flange sealing surface.

I had the same issue of a groove being worn into the diff flange sealing surface, it looked just like yours....along with a new #1979 seal, I also used a Speedi-Sleeve from Oreilly Auto....part number: Fed Mogul / CR # 99177...somewhat expensive, $33.99 back in 2007, but after more than 10,000 miles, it hasn't leaked since

[cbez]

That's really good info. If I have any leaks after this I will def be putting one on.

[todd lorber]

If you can get your seals out in decent shape, use them as drifts to push the new ones in.
I just redid my seal on the Z tranny with no issues. The roadster pinion seal is on the board to do when I pull the drivetrain.

[cbez]

If you can get your seals out in decent shape, use them as drifts to push the new ones in.
I just redid my seal on the Z tranny with no issues. The roadster pinion seal is on the board to do when I pull the drivetrain.

Mine were too torn up sadly.

[todd lorber]

Its ok. Use a wood drift and a rubber mallet. Just keep any wood chips out and keep working around the circumference gradually,

[DAC21]

I have Timken 1979 ready for the pinion seal and it looks like 710324 will fit the 4 speed output?

Jack up the rear, undo the rear driveshaft bolts, pull the whole thing out of the trans?

I have done a pinion seal before just by marking the the nut and getting it back to the same spot.

Any special wisdom or tricks to share? Any of the seals/flanges a pain to remove?

I am leaking bad from both, slinging all over the undercarriage (see photos) and seems smart to tackle at the same time.

Are those two Timken Seal Part Numbers confirmed?

Thanks

[cbez]

The front one was duralast.

[DAC21]

The front one was duralast.

Thanks, yes I saw that Duralast part with the same Timken part number at AutoZone. Less than $4 I think.

[cbez]

Well, diff is definitely dry after a 20 mile drive. Not ready to call the trans output before I get it on jackstands.

Still getting some fluid on the trans after threadseal on every bolt but hard to say the source since it could blow back from the bell housing and drip.