1970 SPL resto finally started...

[funkaholik]

RustyBucket, the 5 speed conversion isn't difficult. The only pain will be in your wallet. In addition to the very pricey trans, you'll need a different engine spacer plate, trans crossmember, driveshaft, shifter plate (plus other stuff I'm sure I'm forgetting) and you'll have to relocate the hole where the shifter comes through the floor of the body tub. Plus, I had my trans rebuilt since I had no knowledge of what it looked like inside. Another expensive endeavor, but I'm so glad I did it. The rebuilder called it a "time bomb" in the state it was received.

As far as power, I'm going to roughly estimate 199.7hp, since that's what it made on the dyno. Scroll up on page 7 of this thread to see the YouTube link and dyno graph. Assuming 10 to 15% drivetrain loss, it should be 170 - 180 at the wheels. We will see...

[RustyBucket]

Thanks Erik for the reply !
Roughly 10 year ago I bought at SRL 5 speed "package deal" from a guy in Oregon. Luckily I had the shipment insured, because all that should up at "the Curb" was a bare naked transmission with a FedEx sticker half-as-ly slapped on the side of the case when I came home from work one day..
Ah_ Yeah I was pissed.
None of the other bits of the "Package" were there, although the Previous Owner said that he had boxed all of the parts in a reenforece "Toilet Bowl" box to ship it East.

I'm not sure what condition the trans is even in ! it could be a bomb as well.
How exspenvie is it to get them rebuilt ? If I may ask ?/ Also, who does that kind of work on an 60 year trans anymore ??

Cameron

[funkaholik]

There are two people here in California that I would trust to do it. I'm sure there are some folks on the east coast who have the skills and parts to do it, too. Perhaps post that question in the tech discussion forum and see if you get some referrals.

[RustyBucket]

Good idea

[funkaholik]

More tinkering...

I've always despised the fright wig of plug wires sticking up from the distributor cap on these engines. Since I'm not going for concours originality, I decided to do something about it. I got a few feet of some retro-looking plug wire, some boots & ends, and grabbed my crimpers. The 90 degree ends at the cap made a big difference, and cutting each wire to custom length didn't hurt, either. A very similar style could be achieved by just cutting the stock wires at the cap end and installing 90s. They are Taylor Cable #46057, if anyone's interested.

This is where OCD really comes in handy. Actually, I sent some restoration pics to the car's previous owner, and she says I have EAD - Extreme Attention to Detail. I will gladly accept that diagnosis.

Behold the before and after shots:

Yuck


Yum

[RustyBucket]

Did you paint the block in oem colored paint? What did you use to buff the valve cover ? Looks great !

[funkaholik]

Block paint is oem Datsun, available from datsunparts.com, and possibly others. I had a local metal polisher do the work on the valve cover and timing cover. Too tedious for me, plus he did a way better job than I could have.

[RustyBucket]

it's sweet

[theunz]

Much cleaner look.

[C.Costine]

Did you paint the block in oem colored paint? What did you use to buff the valve cover ? Looks great !

Rusty bucket, I haven't done much with my valve cover yet but I have done my old 5 slot wheels and some other parts. The process is sanding first with finer and finer grades, then once you are done with the 2000 it is time to buff with Mothers Polish and power ball. Of course to get in the grooves you will need to find something that fits between with a towel on it and gives you a good hand hold.

[Gregs672000]

Wow, somehow I missed this build! Nice numbers on the dyno, should be an absolute blast! It will be very helpful to see what that transfers to at the wheels and will give us all a decent crank vs wheels percentage of loss, so thank you for that. Very excited for you and look forward to more posts!

[funkaholik]

For anyone else who's going to attempt the reinstallation of these engines, I offer you this advice, gained from recent experience: leave all nuts and bolts very loose! I mean everything: trans crossmember bolts, all motor mount bolts/nuts. Attach the 2 bolts that hold the trans mount to the trans (but leave them loose) before lowering the whole thing onto the frame. Stop lowering the whole assembly just before the frame takes the weight, and try to line up all the mounting holes and get your bolts started. This will make your life much easier and save much cursing. Once all fasteners have been started, you can lower engine & trans the rest of the way, and start tightening it all up. Then treat yourself to a beer.

[funkaholik]

Here's one more piece of unsolicited advice: when breaking in your new engine, and doing power runs on the dyno up to 7000 rpm, do not use your brand new, fresh out of the box, unused ceramic coated header. There is a break-in procedure for the coating to ensure it looks good and performs well for a long time. Hint: 7K rpm blasts are not it. There seems to be a lot of debate on the internet about whether a break-in period of heat cycling is required, and I offer this photo as evidence that it is very necessary.

[iloveredmeat]

If you want, I can throw them away for you.

Too soon?!?!?

But, seriously... even though they're not all that bad, I get it... and I do sympathize because you've done such a beautiful and impeccable job on the rest of the engine and car.

And thanks for relaying the info, I may need headers and have been considering the same ones.

Sorry that happened.
pm

[RustyBucket]

That’s a shame and a pisser at the same time. I’m sticking to the old oems besides my car would blow up at that speed.

Still , they don’t look bad as my pipe !!