Right Stuff Gasket maker

[nismou20]

With newer technology adhesives and seals what is consensus on eliminating some of the Gasket materials on our old cars? I will be needing timing cover, pan, water pump, and other smaller gaskets for my top end shortly. The Right Stuff is suppose to be impervious to oils and heat.

[DAC21]

Probably only as good as your application skills. Too much and then when you tighten down the parts some ooze can make its way into where your oil / water circulate.

[Nissanman]

My advice: -
The golden rule is you can only safely use silicone type gasket sealant on engines that are designed for it.
The Nissan SR20 for example has high tolerance metal mating surfaces with a groove machined into one of the surfaces.
That groove is where you apply a bead of sealant and when mated, the design allows the bead to smear across the surface without producing "silicone worms" inside the engine.
Unless you can ENSURE that any excess (worm) can be eliminated from inside the engine, it is a risky exercise.
I purchased an FJ20 engine years ago for a project and the PM (Previous Mechanic) had used RTV/silicone sealant on EVERYTHING!
Took a few covers off and WOW, there was a disaster waiting to happen inside.
I have pictures somewhere, if I locate them I'll post them up.
I find!

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[theunz]

I try to only use gasket sealer where it’s called for. Getting parts apart after gasket sealer has hardened can be a real pain and getting it off the parts can be worse. I just spent an hour scraping silicone off the tail light lens and the housing on my Porsche because some idiot was to cheap to buy a gasket. I guess he thought light bulbs last forever!

[spl310]

I used to be a proponent of RTV. No more. I find that if you need a sealant, Permatex #2 non hardening is good. It will get pretty stiff, but doesn't harden into a solid adhesive. YMMV.

[Gregs672000]

Recently I carefully and sparingly used the perma tech equivalent to the Toyota sealant for my transmission, oil pan (which includes a crank scraper), a small amount for the oil seal on the head gasket at the back of the block (stock sealer not present on this thicker head gasket), the upper chain tensioner access plate, and I loosened the front cover and forced a little skim of sealant into the gap and retightened, the fuel pump block out plate, and a thin skim on the thermostat housing gaskets. I've been very pleased with the lack of leaks in areas where it used to leak. I have always been very careful with any sealer or gasket maker, and they are usually a mixed bag of results. However, this stuff seems to work the best I've experienced and it's worth the price. Best it's been in 35 years. Use very little as it seals very well, and excess will likely result in those aforementioned "worms." The only thing still leaking on my motor is the darn rear main... just a few drops.

And Nissanman, wow... that person was an idiot.

[Nissanman]

That's the rub isn't it, to use it sparingly.
Not too much to create a problem and enough to solve a problem!

[C.Costine]

I rarely use any gasket sealer or gasket maker. When I do it is has been Permatex #2 or probably 50 years. If I want a gasket to stick to one surface I will spray that side of it with Permatex High Tack.

[notoptoy]

I really like the Permatex Hi-Tack stuff as well. Great for holding in place and adds just a little confidence that it is sealing as good as can be had. The real key to me is flat, and really clean surfaces prior to application.

[GeoffM]

With newer technology adhesives and seals what is consensus on eliminating some of the Gasket materials on our old cars? I will be needing timing cover, pan, water pump, and other smaller gaskets for my top end shortly. The Right Stuff is suppose to be impervious to oils and heat.

I love The Right Stuff. I used it for water pump, cooling tower on the R16 and many other engine projects for our Wrangler, Subaru etc.

Works great for me.

[redroadster]

Mitsu went to RTV on small component housings and formed aluminum/ silicone gaskets in 1990-92
Or the avelmar type
Nissan in the mid eighty's
But gasoline or fumes turns most silicon to trash

[SLOroadster]

I just tried using the Toyotabond sealant on my water pump backing plate. The pump leaks from exactly the same place it did before, only worse. It had a month to dry, I'm not impressed. All the gasket surfaces were flat, clean and dry when I assembled it. I filled the cooling system, started the car and not a minute later there was a weep of coolant along the top of the water pump, right on the joint between the back plate and the main body of the pump.

Will

[redroadster]

I just tried using the Toyotabond sealant on my water pump backing plate. The pump leaks from exactly the same place it did before, only worse. It had a month to dry, I'm not impressed. All the gasket surfaces were flat, clean and dry when I assembled it. I filled the cooling system, started the car and not a minute later there was a weep of coolant along the top of the water pump, right on the joint between the back plate and the main body of the pump.

How'd I get this in your post ?


Yeah it is.... Mitsu $28 tube is useless... the training staff said you have to knead the tube to mix up the contents , we would squirt out the clear runny part to get the thick grey and it was usable , it does last longest they say .
Believe it separated in high heat in a container

Will

[Gregs672000]

I just tried using the Toyotabond sealant on my water pump backing plate. The pump leaks from exactly the same place it did before, only worse. It had a month to dry, I'm not impressed. All the gasket surfaces were flat, clean and dry when I assembled it. I filled the cooling system, started the car and not a minute later there was a weep of coolant along the top of the water pump, right on the joint between the back plate and the main body of the pump.

Will

Sounds like there may be some unidentified problem still...

[redroadster]

I noticed in high humidity the silicone is harder to get stuck on the metal to seal