Could use some help troubleshooting

[JT68]

I can think of a dozen things that would do this. It would be a very unusual failure mode for a starter (some type of starter lockup with the bendix drive extended-would be very odd). What kind of starter is it?

just remove the belt and that takes the alternator and WP out of the equation- unlikely, but possible.

If it is accessory drive related- alternator, WP or valvetrain etc, the crank should be able to rotate at least a few degrees freely before stopping. Sounds like something is actually seized (rods/mains/pistons) if there is really zero crank rotation. Best of luck.

[Gregs672000]

Agreed... it's all just speculation at this point. I was trying to think of what would cause or result in absolutely no movement. Regardless I'm sorry to hear of the engines demise, and I'm hoping it's something simple!

[GeoffM]

Well, I’ll be damned if it wasn’t a hung-up bendix in the starter! Best case scenario I’d say. I would never have thought that a little pinion gear could lock up the engine solid.

We’ve all felt the pain of the upper starter bolt so I thought I’d start with simply backing off the bolts. If the bolts were loose, I would be able to see if the starter cocked when I tried to rotate the engine. I put it into 4th and rocked the car and sure enough I heard a ‘ping’ and the bendix returned to the retracted position. Retightened the bolts and it starts fine multiple times.
I do a full investigation after the season (if it makes it) when I pull the engine to do the rebuild/replacement.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Curtis]

As to the starter, many people have had starters fail after only a few weeks. If you can't get the engine turn over by hand well....

[theunz]

Don’t you just love a good ending?

As for that pesky starter bolt, I’ve had good success using several extensions that allowed the ratchet to be placed just forward of the front carb. Takes a variety of extensions to end up in the right place. I have a U20 with Solex’s, so may or may not work with SU’s

[Gregs672000]

Yeah!

[DAC21]

Well, I’ll be damned if it wasn’t a hung-up bendix in the starter! Best case scenario I’d say. I would never have thought that a little pinion gear could lock up the engine solid.

We’ve all felt the pain of the upper starter bolt so I thought I’d start with simply backing off the bolts. If the bolts were loose, I would be able to see if the starter cocked when I tried to rotate the engine. I put it into 4th and rocked the car and sure enough I heard a ‘ping’ and the bendix returned to the retracted position. Retightened the bolts and it starts fine multiple times.
I do a full investigation after the season (if it makes it) when I pull the engine to do the rebuild/replacement.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Well you are going to need plenty of parts for that rebuild, might as well get a few of them ordered from Dean and get in on that free Starter that he is offering for 311s members during July ($200+ orders)

[JT68]

What kind of starter was it? That's a really odd failure...but great that it wasn't the engine!

[GeoffM]

Well, I’ll be damned if it wasn’t a hung-up bendix in the starter! Best case scenario I’d say. I would never have thought that a little pinion gear could lock up the engine solid.

We’ve all felt the pain of the upper starter bolt so I thought I’d start with simply backing off the bolts. If the bolts were loose, I would be able to see if the starter cocked when I tried to rotate the engine. I put it into 4th and rocked the car and sure enough I heard a ‘ping’ and the bendix returned to the retracted position. Retightened the bolts and it starts fine multiple times.
I do a full investigation after the season (if it makes it) when I pull the engine to do the rebuild/replacement.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Well you are going to need plenty of parts for that rebuild, might as well get a few of them ordered from Dean and get in on that free Starter that he is offering for 311s members during July ($200+ orders)

Probably a good idea!

[GeoffM]

What kind of starter was it? That's a really odd failure...but great that it wasn't the engine!

Its’s a Wilson reman. Non-reduction. I’d have to look through my receipts to find the PN. The good thing about it is that it fit through the frame/inner fender gap, although it’s not a permanent magnet motor. It may have been listed for the H20, but I can’t be certain unless I grab the PN.
I haven’t investigated the root cause….ring gear, drive gear etc. Debris? Or maybe a notchy motor shaft spline….whatever it was, the solenoid return spring couldn’t overcome it.

I’ve been procrastinating on a rebuild for quite a few years. A head gasket retorque solved my overheating issues, for now. I also have a major issue with the spark plug threads on cyl #4 to address.

Are you up to build a stroker long block for me

[GeoffM]

Don’t you just love a good ending?

As for that pesky starter bolt, I’ve had good success using several extensions that allowed the ratchet to be placed just forward of the front carb. Takes a variety of extensions to end up in the right place. I have a U20 with Solex’s, so may or may not work with SU’s

With the R16, the best way to get to it is down the gap on the inside of the M/C. You can barely fit your forearm down in the gap, as it scrapes along the rear of the valve cover/ engine lifting lug. You have to use a box end wrench….1/4 of a flat per turn…lol.