I'm just down the road, used to live in Bonney Lake. Let me know what help you may need. I'm hoping to have the motor back together and in in a few weeks.
Well, it seems today will be a day for fuel system fun.
When i bought the car, it had been sitting for years and years with a tank full of fuel. The fuel had gone to varnish. I drained the tank and flushed it a few times by half filling it with fuel and shaking the car and draining it again. Did that a few times until it was coming out clear. Then cleaned out the carb bowls. Disconnected the fuel line and cranked until the fuel line had purged all of its brown varnish. Then hooked everything up with a fresh fuel filter in-line, and started it.
I have since been running the engine as often as I have time. Taking short drives around the block. With no top, its been tough to find time to get it out lately.
I have been fighting constant issues with the carbs gumming up. Ive changed the fuel filter and cleaned the bowls a handful of times as its still catching sediment that has been trapped in the system. But traces of the old brown fuel must still be lingering.
Saturday I took a chance and buzzed it down to the local gas station for a tank of premium. Then had to push start it as it didnt want to start on the key.
I drove 5 miles to my brothers place across town. And as long as i kept the rpms up it kept running. After cooling down, i headed for home. Had to keep the choke about halfway out to get any power.
Started it yesterday to move some stuff in the driveway. Started fine in the morning. In the evening when it was time to put it away however, it cranked the battery dead. So I pushed it up to the garage by hand.
I think today i will start with a battery charger and fresh inline filter. Spray out the bowls and clean the needles and seats. And see how she does from there.
Gpc_jay wrote: Tue Apr 06, 2021 11:31 am
Well, it seems today will be a day for fuel system fun.
When i bought the car, it had been sitting for years and years with a tank full of fuel. The fuel had gone to varnish. I drained the tank and flushed it a few times by half filling it with fuel and shaking the car and draining it again. Did that a few times until it was coming out clear. Then cleaned out the carb bowls. Disconnected the fuel line and cranked until the fuel line had purged all of its brown varnish. Then hooked everything up with a fresh fuel filter in-line, and started it.
I have since been running the engine as often as I have time. Taking short drives around the block. With no top, its been tough to find time to get it out lately.
I have been fighting constant issues with the carbs gumming up. Ive changed the fuel filter and cleaned the bowls a handful of times as its still catching sediment that has been trapped in the system. But traces of the old brown fuel must still be lingering.
Saturday I took a chance and buzzed it down to the local gas station for a tank of premium. Then had to push start it as it didnt want to start on the key.
I drove 5 miles to my brothers place across town. And as long as i kept the rpms up it kept running. After cooling down, i headed for home. Had to keep the choke about halfway out to get any power.
Started it yesterday to move some stuff in the driveway. Started fine in the morning. In the evening when it was time to put it away however, it cranked the battery dead. So I pushed it up to the garage by hand.
I think today i will start with a battery charger and fresh inline filter. Spray out the bowls and clean the needles and seats. And see how she does from there.
You may be rinsing and repeating that process a lot of times. Personally I'd bite the bullet and have that tank properly boiled out and then you can save some coin by sealing it yourself with a POR sealer kit and then putting a nice POR coating on the exterior. There are some solvent type products (Eastwood is one) that are in a pressurized can where you can blow out the lines from the tank up to the fuel filter and beyond. Just my two cents.
1967 1600 in waiting SPL311-09002 / R-28178
2018 Hyundai Elantra GT Sport Ultimate
Gpc_jay wrote: Tue Apr 06, 2021 11:31 am
Started it yesterday to move some stuff in the driveway. Started fine in the morning. In the evening when it was time to put it away however, it cranked the battery dead. So I pushed it up to the garage by hand.
I think today i will start with a battery charger and fresh inline filter. Spray out the bowls and clean the needles and seats. And see how she does from there.
It may not be the same issue as you, but check the voltage to the coil and jump the battery to the resister underneath when it won't start but cranks. I spent quite a lot of time troubleshooting the starting to figure out the wiring from the ignition was barely soldered together. Hope that helps.
-John
69 2000 SU (driving, but slowly cleaning up)
68 (I think) 2000 with no motor or tranny (waiting to get attention).
Portland, OR
It sounds like your battery may not be getting a charge. Check this by taking a voltage reading while running it should be 13.7 -14.7 volts. If it is not, it could be the alternator, or voltage regulator or wiring issues. Post back.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
Inspect fuel system.. Fuel filter was visibly dirty. Fine tan/brown dust stuck to the element, and red/brown crap caught on the filter body. I consider this to be a good sign, as it proves the filter is working. And that the majority of the garbage is working through the system.
Replaced inline filter (wix 33011)
Pop the tops off the carbs. Fuel in bowls was clean and clear. Needles move freely. Floats floating. Gave the needles a good brake cleaner spray just to be thorough. Reassemble.
Start up. Ran a bit rough..
Set timing to 16° Adv with vacuum line disconnected and plugged.
Noticed a fuel leak!!!! Tightened up the forward carb and stopped the leak.
Re-start and inspect for leaks, double check timing etc etc.
All seemed well... So I took a test drive.
FIRST SUCCESSFUL DRIVE!!!!
Went about 10 miles. Varying speeds from 25 to 60mph... Smooth take offs and decent power curve. Still a bit anemic.. But comfortably driveable. Lil bit of crunch downshifting into 2nd. But that could be me learning this tranny. Corners like an old MG, and honestly feels a LOT like an MGA. Tach is bouncing. I will need to lube the cable.
Has not done the hard start since.
I have previously checked for alternator function. I forget exactly what it was putting out. Around 13.9V if I recall? It was good enough that i didn't replace it when i did the water pump and rad hoses.
Haven't had time to type out a proper "build" thread. But in the interest of providing information in the event that someone wants to help. Or if someone is simply curious.. Heres the list of work that i have already done.
Oil and filter
Plugs n wires
Points n condenser
Starter (the smaller one that fits through the tiny hole!)
Battery (group 24 marine. I like having the threaded posts during a build process)
Clutch master
Brake master (510 unit. Re-flared the lines with fittings to match the master)
Brake calipers torn down cleaned up and re-assembled.
New front pads
4 wheel brake bleed
Flushed fuel tank (in car only)
Blew out fuel lines
Cleaned carbs
Filled dash pots with 3 in 1 sewing machine oil
Replaced throttle cable
Water pump (forkilft unit. Perfect fit)
Radiator hoses
Flushed cooling system
Next up is a new top. As right now it doesnt have one, and i live in Wa. Then its on to electrics. Lights work in and out. But no blinkers, and not sure on brake lights. Stock AM Radio powers on, but i don't have a speaker. Clock works, dash lights work, blower fan does not. Wiper motor works, but drivers wiper arm spring is toast, and blades are crumbly.
Missing pieces:
Top rear bar
Drivers door inner trim top
Dash badly cracked... New cover or replace
Speaker is MIA
Need to hide a modern stereo and mini amp unit
Hood prop is goofed up
Top boot
Tonneau cover
Spare wheel (will a 510 or 240 wheel work?)
Jack bottom (its just round... I imagine it should have a base of some kind?)
Couple dash knobs missing
DATSUN lettering for hood
Shift boot
Hard top
Glad she's coming along! Another place to clean in the fuel system are the screens that surround the fuel banjo bolts. Check carb airflow balance if you have a meter (I can loan you mine). If you want, you can swing by sometime and I'll help answer any questions and look things over. I'm probably 20 minutes away. Based on your car list you probably know most of these systems pretty well, but I'm happy to help if needed.
Gregs672000 wrote: Thu Apr 08, 2021 10:26 am
Glad she's coming along! Another place to clean in the fuel system are the screens that surround the fuel banjo bolts. Check carb airflow balance if you have a meter (I can loan you mine). If you want, you can swing by sometime and I'll help answer any questions and look things over. I'm probably 20 minutes away. Based on your car list you probably know most of these systems pretty well, but I'm happy to help if needed.
Thanks for the offer! She's not ready for the freeway yet. But hopefully will be soon. And the offer goes both ways. If you need an extra hand, im happy to help. Plenty of tools and experience. Don't be afraid to ask.
I did spray out the screens when i did the initial clean when i blew out the lines. Are they worth checking multiple times? Or can I trust wix to catch the elephants?
Any advice of best practice in lubing the tach guage and cable? Its bouncing at low rpm and i can hear it whirring a bit. Probably dry or gummy in both the cable and guage.
I have an air flow meter. I figure ill burn a couple tanks of fuel before i try to fine tune though. I've got a dozen inline filters just begging to catch the crud. And i wouldn't want to disappoint the little guys. Haha
Nice to have someone so close by! My engine is apart waiting on parts but should be back by the end of the month, so I'm happy to stop and say hi. My wife and I frequently travel the roads around Mt. Rainier which always has us driving through Bonney Lake.
The screens should be fine now. I've used a Teflon spray lube for my cables. Tacoma Speedometer has been great for repairs if needed.
