Ball joint boots

[eastmedia]

Just digging in to my 68 front suspension (original owner car) and found out that the grease (zerk) fittings were never installed on any of the ball joints. That means 38 years of no grease in the joints. With disintegrated boots it also means who knows how many years of dirt in the joints as well.

Lower ball joint movement is about 1/8 of an inch as I pull on it. Looks like I will be rebuilding these.

On the upper joint as I removed the factory (zerk) plug, the retaing nut on the top also moved no torque required. Is there a spring underneath there if I get it all the way off? How about the lower?

Ron

[itsa68]

There is a spring on the inside of the lower ball joint, but there is not a retaining nut similiar to the upper to enable access the the internals.

Those re-built lower balljoints must of had a new endcaps pressed in/on.

If the rebuilder needs cores, maybe we should all send them our worn out units that are sitting around in the old parts box in our garages.

Ray B.

[Linda]

The post by Garth in this thread stated that he rebuilt upper and lower ball joints.

Linda
68 1600

[Conner]

I definitely have a set of worn out greasey lowers in a cardboard box in my garage right now.

[itsa68]

We'll have to get this clarified.

Garth:
What kind of bottom was there on the lower ball joint set that you had taken apart?
Was there a retainer nut to remove as in the upper joints, or did it have a pressed on/in retainer plate.
If it had a pressed retainer plate how did you get it out and re-install it after replacing the lower joint spring.

Otherwise I will have to resort to repeatedly whack the in the bottom with a hammer to tighten up the joint.
Or I can inject JB Weld into it to take up the slap.

Ray B.

[DELETED]

DELETED

[itsa68]

Oh
I got the impression that because he stated them as being remanufactured, the cores of worn out ones were used in producing them.

If they are new reproduction units, I'm impressed as they look to be of good quality.
Maybe he will become a listed vendor on the site.

Now I have to use the JB Weld in the meantime.

Ray B.

[Linda]

List,
I spoke with "Lyle" down at Rareparts.com and told him about the need for quality suspension parts, either rebuilt or rermanufactured. He said he believes they can figure it out since that is all they do. He just needs a donor part for everything needed for them to check out.
So, anyone want to offer up a core for them to look at? I told him I would check with the List and see what is available. I gave him my name so I can call back with info or you can call direct to arrange the shipping.
This could be a good opportunity for these parts.
Any thoughts on this?

Linda
68 1600

[Conner]

I have old, worn-out upper and lower ball joints that I'd be glad to donate, assuming the worn-out ones are of interest. Let me know where to ship them.

[CBreault]

Maybe RareParts changed their tune from a couple of years ago. I sent them ball joints, tie rods and center links 2 years ago and they said that there was nothing they could do with the ball joints. They were even reluctant to send me my NEW parts back. Cost me 50.00 shipping. Hope they can do something now that they wouldn't do then.

[Linda]

They have been pretty good so far, got back to me by email and a call and said what they need. They want the business and we want the parts. Also the guy said that they would be putting up some of their money too.
So far so good.
Maybe it's the "female persuasion"

Linda
68 1600

[Copterpilot]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I ordered the 9-9103 bump stops from Energy Suspension and they are quite a bit smaller than the old ones on the car. Will this make any difference?

[bmccarthy67]

Oh, those are like an inch short of factory...most of us who used them had comp or lowered front springs. The Comp Prep manual describes modifying the originals. If you are not using lowered springs your suspension "could" travel an additional 1 inch with the ES ones before your car "bottoms out". Seems like that could risk allowing the shocks to completed depress. The stops are suppose to stop suspension travel and come in different sizes and materials as they can act as an addition "progressive spring" when they make contact. You can modify them to "tune" the suspension to your needs...again, great info in the Comp Manual on this site. I wish I were home as I have several sets of originals and I would be glad to send you one. If you need that spring perch and a bump stop let me know, as I will be on vacation and back in the states on 6 Jun.

v/r
Buddy

[Copterpilot]

Oh, those are like an inch short of factory...most of us who used them had comp or lowered front springs. The Comp Prep manual describes modifying the originals. If you are not using lowered springs your suspension "could" travel an additional 1 inch with the ES ones before your car "bottoms out". Seems like that could risk allowing the shocks to completed depress. The stops are suppose to stop suspension travel and come in different sizes and materials as they can act as an addition "progressive spring" when they make contact. You can modify them to "tune" the suspension to your needs...again, great info in the Comp Manual on this site. I wish I were home as I have several sets of originals and I would be glad to send you one. If you need that spring perch and a bump stop let me know, as I will be on vacation and back in the states on 6 Jun.

v/r
Buddy

I guess I'll use the ones from my other car for now. The bump stops seem solid. Half of the bolts holding the spring perch on broke while trying to take them out. This restoration can be frustrating at times!

[eastmedia]

Those bump stops were for competition or lowered springs.