K24A2 swap into 66

[spriso]

Our big brake kits are designed to use the aluminum Z32 300ZX brake calipers only, we would not be able to let you know if any alternate calipers will fit.

That being said, the 300ZX calipers are not difficult to find, and are easy to rebuild if you choose to do so.

Let us know if you have any other questions regarding our big brake kits-- we are happy to help.

Michael

[Slackline]

Thank you. These are compatible with the 300ZX and are listed for the 300ZX.

Should I just get the Nissan ones?

[spriso]

Thank you. These are compatible with the 300ZX and are listed for the 300ZX.

Should I just get the Nissan ones?

If you are going to use the Spriso Motorsports 300ZX kit, you will need to use the factory Nissan 300ZX aluminum calipers. The reason is is we have to move a bushing from one side of the caliper to the other to get the caliper alignment correct (simple conversion)-- the cast iron calipers (or any other "like" caliper) won't have these bushings, so the alignment will be incorrect.

Get the Aluminum Nissan 300ZX calipers and you will be good to go with our kit!

Michael

[damarble]

Thank you. These are compatible with the 300ZX and are listed for the 300ZX.

Should I just get the Nissan ones?

If you are going to use the Spriso Motorsports 300ZX kit, you will need to use the factory Nissan 300ZX aluminum calipers. The reason is is we have to move a bushing from one side of the caliper to the other to get the caliper alignment correct (simple conversion)-- the cast iron calipers (or any other "like" caliper) won't have these bushings, so the alignment will be incorrect.

Get the Aluminum Nissan 300ZX calipers and you will be good to go with our kit!

Michael

My non-Nissan castings have the bushing, so it may still be OK. Buyer beware.

[Slackline]

Well, the transmission is sitting in the car. I will need to remove some "extra" metal on the trans to lower it a little. That big PPF mount on the side of the trans is sitting on top of my X member and raising the whole thing up.

The engine will be close. I didn't bolt it to the trans yet. It is sitting on blocks while hanging from the hoist. The drivers side aluminum piece is the "water pump housing" and the water pump is inside of it and the alternator mounts to the side. The alternator will interfere with the steering column as it sits. I still need to lower the motor an inch or so. I am going to have to do some custom machining to the water pump housing and move the alternator up a little. I will need to make sure that the intake will clear the alternator. But, I don't have the intake yet...

On the other side, I think if I can turn down sharply with the exhaust and either have an "oval" collector on the side of the motor, or collect them under the frame I can make a header work.

I will have to notch the front cross member a bit to clear the crank. Once I have the engine and trans bolted up I should know more about how everything will sit. I just got the trans adapter plate.

I need to make sure everything will fit before I start hacking into this 6 speed. If I need to use the 5 speed, I will want to sell this 6 speed to a Miata guy.

IMG_0034small.jpg

IMG_0035small.jpg

[greydog]

From Young Frankenstein. "This---could---work!".
Keep working on it. Not exactly a bolt in but easier than shoving a 409 into a 46 Ford coupe.
Dan

[spriso]

If you need a spare NB Miata 6-speed tail shaft housing to do some cutting on, I have one on the shelf.

Michael

[Slackline]

Thanks.

It is close enough to keep trying.

When I pull the transmission and engine back out to bolt them together I will re-assess the trans clearance situation.

The part on the trans where the shifter mounts - where is that normally in relation to the tunnel? Is it level with the sheet metal? 2" lower? Or it varies with the install?

[spriso]

Slackline wrote:

The part on the trans where the shifter mounts - where is that normally in relation to the tunnel? Is it level with the sheet metal? 2" lower? Or it varies with the install?

Every powertrain will be different-- and you and damarble will have to figure out what works best for your respective swaps (part of the fun of being a pioneer). IMHO, you need to set the engine height, angle, tilt, and tack in some motor mounts before tackling the transmission mount-- and that will need to have it's height determined by getting it as close to the differential mounting flange angle (ie. pinion angle) as possible.

On our SR swaps, the top of the shift plate of the transmission is about 1" below the top of the transmission tunnel..

Michael

[Slackline]

Thanks Michael.

[Alvin]

Happy to see it in the engine bay!
It reminds me of the F20C, I'm not sure if they are identical in dimensions:

[Slackline]

Thanks Alvin.

Interesting...

The F20c is approx 20mm shorter than the K24 IIRC. Not sure about front to back. The accessory placement is a little different too.

He also dropped his steering shaft a bit.

And tucked the whole engine bay. Nice.

[Slackline]

Today we set the 5 speed transmission in the tunnel and it seemed to have the same contact points as the 6 speed. So, I made some cuts on the 6 speed to remove material where the PPF mounts on the side. I didn't take pics as it was my rough cuts and I will be cleaning them up before final installation.
Pics show the shifter face is now 3/4" below the tunnel sheet metal (which gives me room for trans isolator mounts to raise it a bit). And the pic of the trans in the tunnel. I tried to light up the tunnel so you can see how much room is in there.

Bolting engine to trans this weekend for trial fit, mounts, and other modifications.

[damarble]

That looks good in there. With any luck I'll be stabbing my NC 6 speed in tonight. I can already see interference happening between the PPF mount and X brace. My hope is to repurpose the PPF mount rather than trim it so I'll be cutting the frame instead.

[Slackline]

I wedged mine in there, got the shifter lined up, then crawled underneath with my camera phone and a sharpie. The PPF mount sits flat on the X member. I traced (on the trans PPF mount) where the X member was with the sharpie then pulled the trans out and started cutting with the makita. I cut 1.5" of material off of the PPF. Took a while. I'll post pics after I clean up my sharp edges from the saw.

That frame is quite stiff. Those cross members are huge. I will probably be cutting mine to run the exhaust out the passenger side and cross over at the rear package tray, keeping the exhaust away from the fuel tank.

Good luck. Take pics.