Hitachi HJB 38W carb & choke questions

[Gregs672000]

HI Walterbuddy, I read through your earlier posts and see that you have addressed the ignition timing issue... sorry if I harped. I do have the experience of me and a mechanical engineering friend scratching our heads for days while trying to get my first engine to run right and having the neighbor drop by and immediately point out a spark plug wiring location issue! We just couldn't see it! Even if you're off a tooth on the dizzy, you should be able to rotate the distributor enough to get it to start though you may not be able to lock the dizzy down and would need to address that accordingly. It should also fire a timing light while cranking so you can check timing on the crank.

If it's getting spark and fuel, it should show some signs of life. Like I said, careful use of starting fluid may help as it fires much more easily than gas, just don't overdo it. Only other thing I can think of is that the spark goes away when the key returns to the run position from the start position. I have no idea how to check for that but others may.

Keep posting, we'll get it!

[notoptoy]

Only other thing I can think of is that the spark goes away when the key returns to the run position from the start position. I have no idea how to check for that but others may.

Easily checked, there should be two positive feed wires to the coil, one from the Ballast resistor and one from the firewall. The one from the ballast should have power when the key is in the ON position (run), the one from the firewall should have power when the key is in the START position (Cranking), and NO power otherwise. If you have spark, you have power to the coil - just make sure it is powered in both key positions.

[redroadster]

Question : Would the cold compression readings be correct if one or more of : distributor installation, timing, valve adjustment were possibly incorrect?
Linda

Ah ............it kind of like the head is off and your trying to change dizzy setting to see if it runs .

You need to open the slides and of course throttle ...the compression could come up quite a bit , but I'd bet not to normal, I forgot a big about the slides doing mine got another 30 lbs the slow valve thing a possiblity, worth R&r the VC to spray blaster on the valve stems

It's a normal condition to have the camshaft in a block seize, or a lifter after the car has set for yrs ..warm moist air moves in and the blocks cold , it turns into a dehumidifier coating the parts in water, his turns but may have broke the shear/ dowel pin then it jams after going all the way around same for crank gear keyway

He should re test the compression .this time remove the shrader valve out of the comp. tester , see what the engine is actually pumping up on each pump

Most of us know what good compression engine sounds like cranking how about a Android vid showing that

[Linda]

Red,
So would the PB Blaster sprayed on rusty valve stems go down into the cylinder and affect anything, or should you try to catch the run off? Chances are the valve seals could be shot on a car that has been sitting also...
Re : compression- blocking open the carb pistons before doing the compression test does get overlooked. Did not know it could affect compression reading as much.

Linda

[redroadster]

I think I got only another 25 psi opening them
Yes I'd spray the stems can't hurt also the push rods to let it run down to the lifters and in cyl. A couple squirts

[WalterBuddy]

Hi everyone,

Ok, I just realized I hadn’t refreshed this page in a while - now I see all of your answers.

Well, now I need to learn more about the distributor! Still no firing when cranked, and where we thought we were seeing good primary spark at the points before, it has now disappeared - it sparks once per dizzy rotation now, instead of 4 per rotation like it should. I see the post from notoptoy about how to check the positive feeds to the coil - any other suggestions?

Not offended by harping on “obvious” things, and sorry I didn’t answer sooner! Thanks for the continuing help.

[notoptoy]

Make sure the cam lobe that drives the points is not worn down, that the points aren't sticking and that you have a tiny dot of lube behind the point "block" on the arm that rides the cam. Check your distributor cap to make sure there are no cracks and that the carbon pill for the coil wire to rotor connection is in place and moves freely. I suggest cranking in the dark to look for arcing or shorts. Check the Rotor for condition too, is it hitting the cap, and digging a groove in the contacts?

[Gregs672000]

Wiring, electrical... ugh. Points are an on and off switch, so something is keeping power from reaching them if they themselves don't spark. Point gap too small? Condenser pulling power away? Frayed internal wire? Bad connections that feed the points...? Others who are more experienced using a multimeter will give better advice than I. Or borrow a known good dizzy?

[redroadster]

Diagnosis can be a fickle pickle....when you don't understand theory...(.my auto mech votec teacher)
It was a 2 yr , 3 hours dayly,

Where do you think his missing 75 psi per cyl.is hiding out ...that's the mystery

[Linda]

Hmmm, quite the mystery..
Maybe take off the pigtail wire in the distributor ( tiny wire near points) and test for continuity. Test it while straight and a little bent since the tiny wires inside could be broken. Get a new wire if you can.If it is a braided wire, spray it with contact cleaner while out of the car, reinstall when dry. CRC electrical contact cleaner is great.
Maybe change out your ignition fuse and be sure the fuse box is clean with good connections.
Check starter wire harness for dirt, bad connections at both ends.
Ignition switch should be clean with no bad connections, and be seated correctly in the housing. Years ago I had to reach under the dash to wiggle the ignition wires before the car would start.....the wires were going bad
Process of elimination
Linda