Help ! Help! Just Put my engine in and Clutch will not work

[Tim]

Can Some one out there be of some help. I just put my rebuilt engine back in my car this weekend. I have installed a new clutch master cylinder, and new slave cylinder. I have repeatedly bled my hydraulic line. The slave cylinder appears to be working, I would guess that the fork comming out of the engine which the slave cylinder push rod connects to moves 4 or 5 inches. From what I can tell, I have the slave cylinder adjusted to the point where there is no free play between the fork and the pushrod push nut. The clutch still does not want to engage or disengage with the engine running. When I start the car in either first gear or reverse, the car will immediately crawl forward or backward. I did not personally rebuild the engine, but I had a new clutch, pressure plate, bearings etc. put in when the engine was rebuilt. Can some one give me and idea of what I am missing here or where to look next.

Thanks Tim

[67 1/2 1600]

Can you hear anything when you press the clutch? Could it be possible that they didnt install a throwout bearing? Or your fork is broken/out of place? When you press the clutch does it feel hard or soft?

[spyder]

I am confused by your description,

"The clutch still does not want to engage or disengage with the engine running. When I start the car in either first gear or reverse, the car will immediately crawl forward or backward."

It sounds like the pressure plate never releases the clutch.

Also, "I would guess that the fork comming out of the engine which the slave cylinder push rod connects to moves 4 or 5 inches."

How long is your slave cylinder? Mine is around 3 inches and only moves around an inch when depressed.

????

[Tim]

Spyder and the other gentleman, thank you for your reply.

I guess I did not describe it very well. When I get under the car and watch the action of the slave cylinder, my pushrod moves the fork from the original position forward quite noticeably. I do not get the impression the slave cylinder is not working. The feel of the clutch is nice and firm not the least bit mushy. I do not hear any unusual noises when the clutch is depressed. Yes, when the engine was rebuilt the throw out bearings were replaced. With the engine shut off, I can move freely between the various gears. With the engine running, I cannot get the transmission out of first gear, nor if in neutral into any of the gears. If I try to put it into reverse, it will grind. But if in gear when started, with the clutch depressed, it will crawl forward or backward depending on the gear. It will stop rolling when the brakes are depressed and not die out.

Any other information needed

[spyder]

O.K. Here it goes. It sounds like the pressure plate is not fully releasing.

Theorys!

#1. The slave cylinder rod is misadjusted therefore not fullying releasing the clutch.

#2. The fluid has air and is not moving the slave piston enough.

#3. The pressure plate is damaged/broken and is dragging the clutch.

#4. The transmission is binding in the crankshaft pilot bearing.

#5. The clutch pedal has a pin which connects it to the master cylinder. As in my case, this pin and the holes it went through were all very sloppy limiting the amount the slave would move. However this problem took years to get to the point where I could not shift fast without grinding. I drilled the holes and used a larger pin to restore the normal throw. I would suspect that if this is going on with yours it would have been there before now. It did make it hard for me to adjust the clearence.

[Linda]

Isn't there supposed to be a tiny bit of play in the slave cylinder push rod? I forget exactly how much but it is in the archives. Also what about the slave cylinder hose, is it cracked, bulging, or loose? Also hope your tranny has plenty of fluid, mine was a little low and it affected shifting.
Good luck!

Linda
68 1600

[spl310]

I think that the pressure plate is in backwards...

[Datrock]

Sid, I'm lost....can you explain how a pressure plate can be installed backwards. Maybe a clutch disc installed backwards or throw out bearing installed wrong on the clutch fork.... but not a pressure plate????

[oilleak]

Yeah, the disk may be in backwards - the longer side of the splined part of the hub should face rearward. Look for about an 1/8 inch free play at the pushrod / fork.

[spl310]

Thats what I get for posting in a hurry. I meant the disc. oops!

[twinight]

Sounds like the problem that datsundude and Jorge was having a few months ago. Datsundude's car was creeping upon startup even when in neutral.
I believe it was the shift rods in the tranny being out of position when the case was put back together? May not apply if you didn't have the tranny serviced.

This might be of help:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=

http://www.311s.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.ph ... ght=tranny

[itsa68]

My money is on:
a) the clutch lever (fork) socket not being clipped properly on the pivot ball as Joaquin pointed out.
and
b) the clutch disk being in installed backwards as Brian and Sid mentioned.

I have had to re-clip the clutch lever properly to the release bearing and clip the lever socket onto the pivot ball to get rid of a similiar condition.
The slave cylinder was removed and tie wrapped so the pin would not fall out or slave leak.
Removed the boot and reclippped the lever with the aid of a flashlight , mirror, screwdriver and cuss words.

Easy to check the lever, so I'd recommend doing that 1st.

Ray B.

[Tim]

Gentlemen,
Thank you for your feedback. itsa68, your recomendation sounds like the logical approach. Please excuse my ignorance, and understand that I am really clueless here. What do you mean by "reclip the clutch lever properly to the release bearing and clip the lever socket onto the pivot ball". It sounds as if this can be accomplished without taking the engine and transmission out of the car. I am having a panic attack just thinking about all the work I have done and how close I am to being finished, only to have to take it all apart and start all over. Is there a write up on what you are talking about somewhere on the site. What do I look for in order to be able to tell this may in fact be the problem. Will I need any special tools. Is this something best left to an experienced individual. I am not afraid to try, I was able to do the volvo front brake conversion, and figured out how to do the Ford Courier alternator conversion, but then again I had the benefit of being able to read the step by step process.

[itsa68]

Tim
Yes I reclipped the lever thru the hole in the transmission case where the lever goes thru after removing the rubber boot.

It was a pain, but it can be done.
No special tools, just patience.

There is no written procedure on the forum that I know of.

Check out the technical info section by clicking on the Datsun picture located on the forum index page.
Look in the drive section under the clutch trouble shooting topic to see the clutch components picture.

If it doesnt make sense to you, pm me your e-mail address and I'll take some pics and forward them to you.

Ray B.