autometer electronic gauges electrical connections

[Rpelkey]

I have this on another thread but did not get much feedback there so I will try here. Basically it is a 69 that was burned slightly in a small garage fire. Gauges were ruined but wiring is good after checking continuity.


As I move forward on this project slowly, I have the new dash plate welded in and I am installing the autometer gauges. I am trying to keep things as simple as possible by using the original push pull switches and ignition.

The changes are:
I will change from a Amp-meter to a Volt meter.
Electronic gauges include a Volt meter, GPS speedometer, Tach, Temp, Fuel and oil pressure.

With these changes, I have some questions for our electrical guys out there.

1. From the back of the Amp meter I will be joining the white wire and the white/red wire together with a non insulated butt connector then cover with heat shrink. is the the correct way forward?

2. Where should I pull 12v source for the new Volt meter?

3. The power source for the 6 gauges at 0.2 amps each would be from the radio power. It would be used for this since I will not be installing a radio. It is OK to do this or should I source the power somewhere else? OK to use the ground

4. The original multi meter has a 4 connector plug in the back with power to temp and fuel sensors. I will abandon this with empty plug and tape.

5. Is it OK to abandon the S brake light and service switch? Am I missing anything?

[spl310]

Cool! I would keep the s/brake light. To make things more modern, mount a pressure switch on the parking brake handle like a modern car to activate the light. The pull switch for the S/brake for something else.

[Curtis]

Stock dash harness will not work will not work with a dash conversion.

[TurboRagtop]

Yes, I definitely recommend using non-insulated butt connectors, then cover with heat shrink. Using the non-insulated connectors allows you to inspect the integrity and test the strength of the crimped joint before covering with heat shrink. It also allows you the option of soldering the connection before you cover with heat shrink.

[Rpelkey]

Stock dash harness will not work will not work with a dash conversion.

Any suggestions on a way forward with the information that stock dash harness will not work with the attometer gauges.

Thanks, I am really hitting the wall here

rpelkey

[Curtis]

I would say a custom harness since you're moving everything around and changing the gauges. Are building a center console to put the stock switches in? Most of the 69-70 switches are different from earlier cars. Washer and heater are the same as 68. Turn, headlight and hazard are unique. S brake switch is even different and the console harness.

[dynaguy]

Must use push/pull switch for wipers or retro-fit early wiper motor to use toggle switch when doing a flat dash conversion. FWIW Pat

[GoldHawg]

I'm in for this info too; getting ready for two 69's w/flat dash conversion (one SR20 and one U20) and I need to figure out the wiring. Should be relatively straight forward on the SR swap cuz I'm putting in a completely new wiring harness for the car, but the U20 I'll be working with Curtis to figure out how to get it into the stock Datsun harness (i.e., buying a dash harness from him).

[Rpelkey]

I would say a custom harness since you're moving everything around and changing the gauges. Are building a center console to put the stock switches in? Most of the 69-70 switches are different from earlier cars. Washer and heater are the same as 68. Turn, headlight and hazard are unique. S brake switch is even different and the console harness.

I am going to put in a center console to use the push pulls and fabricate in a place for the heater controls I am not planning on toggle switches, using stock push pulls.
Can you point me to someone that can make me a custom dash harness for the attometer gauges?
I had a not so great experience with Portland Wiring Harness this summer.

Thank you

[Rpelkey]

I am going to go ahead and use the stock dash harness for lack of finding anyone that would create a custom for the gauges. The gauges simply have a 12v key on power for the gauges and power for the gauge lights. Everything is wired via a harness for the gauges.

The only gauge I am confused with is the volt meter. Where do I pull the 12v source for the volt meter reading?

Thanks everyone

[TurboRagtop]

The 12 V source for the voltmeter really can be any switched power source you choose from the fuse box. If you are concerned about ultimate accuracy, probably the most accurate point to tap into would be the voltage regulator, using the terminal that charges the battery. Use an inline fuse, of course, goes without saying.

[C.Costine]

I would say a custom harness since you're moving everything around and changing the gauges. Are building a center console to put the stock switches in? Most of the 69-70 switches are different from earlier cars. Washer and heater are the same as 68. Turn, headlight and hazard are unique. S brake switch is even different and the console harness.

I am going to put in a center console to use the push pulls and fabricate in a place for the heater controls I am not planning on toggle switches, using stock push pulls.
Can you point me to someone that can make me a custom dash harness for the attometer gauges?
I had a not so great experience with Portland Wiring Harness this summer.

Thank you

Rpelkey, Curtis is the resident wire harness guru here at 311s. He is constantly helping members with their wiring problems. He is also the maker of most of the wiring diagrams in the tech wiki. He produces wiring harnesses and is probably your best bet for what you need.

[Rpelkey]

thanks everyone,

any chance you would be willing to make me a harness Curtis?

[Curtis]

thanks everyone,

any chance you would be willing to make me a harness Curtis?

Get in line. I have several I'm working on.