Let's see if this thing will fire up today... (starter wiring question)

[v8_ranch]

Hello all, if you missed my intro, I am Shane. I just acquired a 1968 2000. It's rough, but pretty complete I think and definitely worth saving in my opinion (check back with me in a few months, haha).

So, was cleaning it out today (a hot mess for sure). Sorted out what was trash and what was not. Vacuumed out a ton of dirt and debris. Decided to hook up a fresh battery and assess the state of all things electrical. Ended up replacing all fuses in the fuse block in the glove compartment. I have lights, vent fan, wipers (pretty slow and also the knob disintegrated the last time I pulled on it, so guess I will be replacing that), flasher (hazards). No horn (is the FIAAM from the factory, I had used them in the past on cars but was aftermarket?). No radio. No turn signals (pretty sure relay is toast if I wiggle the second wire from the engine side, it clicks, and the wire closest to fender has oozing liquid, yay). The engine turns by hand with a ratchet, so I thought I would give it a shot and try bumping the starter. NADA. I have 12v at the positive terminal at the starter, but I am confused a little about the wiring in the picture I am posting. I had read I think that this wiring by master cylinder can fail at times? I see I think a black wire and a green wire (I think with a stripe) going from a plug to the solenoid. What is most likely culprit as far as failure on this and order of checks. I tried searching the forum a little but, but man a lot of unrelated stuff pulls up from searching "no crank". It sounds like the switches sometimes fail, but was not clear if they were referring to the ignition switch or if there is something else in this circuit.

[v8_ranch]

Also, is there a flasher relay that can be purchased at a LAPS?

[v8_ranch]

I checked voltage on all three terminals running through that plug that has the 2 wires going to solenoid, and nothing with key turned to start. Not sure if these are in the starting circuit at all but look pretty nasty under the dash.

[Linda]

I understand the desire to “ fire it up” with a new Roadster purchase. However with tired, dirty, frayed, jerry-rigged wiring you are in reasonable danger of melting something. Sooooo, I would say resist the urge to start until you see if:
you have an inline 30 amp fuse to protect wiring and ammeter that you have if something gets hot.
there is any evidence of the PO previously melting something.
how much dirt/ corrosion there is on connectors, terminals and wires
how many terminals , connectors etc you have on hand to repair the bad ones you find, which will likely break or crumble if you try to take them apart though that is the best way to check.
And to proceed , get those parts so you can fix things up to at least a safe standarrd. Wiring harnesses are not cheap and take time to install.
The SEARCH feature is not great so the terms have to be specific, and you might also use the AUTHOR field to get someone’s experience too.
There are great schematics in the Tech Wiki by Curtis and others to help you understand the layout.
Good luck
Linda

[v8_ranch]

Didn’t mean to sound flippant in my attitude, planning to go through everything, was just trying to see what was what. Based on the schematics I had looked at earlier today, looks like I should have 12v on that black and yellow wire coming from key to that 3 wire plug, and then to solenoid... when the key is turned to start that is. Am I seeing that straight?

[v8_ranch]

When I said fire it up, I basically meant I wanted to hear the bump of the starter. Not planning on driving for a while. Got Flinstonr-itis to take care of first, among other things

[Jimmers74]

The green wire with yellow stripe was the culprit for my Roadster's unwillingness to crank. I would suggest carefully separating the plug, cleaning all the terminals as best you can, squirting some dielectric grease in each connection, then reassemble. Taking everything apart is a good plan, and I know you want to hear it run, but be careful here. Shorts can smoke your harness, and then you really are in trouble.
Corrosion sets up in tight places that have been damp, and can be difficult to see/find. And understand, even if there is voltage to the solenoid, if it is toast, well...you get the picture.
Good luck. Be methodical in your troubleshooting and take your time. POs have a way of fabricating workarounds that can be harmful, and they don't need to be swallowed to do so. (I've got issues with headlights, so I share your misery....).

[Linda]

Check the starter harness, the 3 wire one going from starter up to another white connector.Wires on both sides should be good. CR won’t start if disconnected or very dirty. You can make or get a new starter harness.
VintageConnections.com for terminals and connectors. Also on Ebay but shipping can take awhile there.
Linda

[v8_ranch]

Thanks, I love reading, but finding what I should be reading I have always found to be a real PITA in these forums. I know in the 911 forum it was horrible to find something that matched what you think it should be. Could someone maybe let me know if there is a good write up that explains the electrical system in more detail? I got and get the schematic, but would love to see something that explains where each component is actually located. This helps alleviate the PO mods Linda mentioned. Anyway, thanks for the feedback. pictures would be great as well... like the two caps and in-line fuse under left dash... what are they?

[v8_ranch]

OK, did some more digging and looks like those to silver cap looking guys are the hazard flashers. Was trying to read to figure out why 2? Anyone know the skinny on that? Still trying to figure out the inline fuse looking thing. This post also shows it in the pictures, so guessing it is from factory...

viewtopic.php?f=72&t=34063

[v8_ranch]

Interestingly enough, my hazards seem to work fine, which is shocking to me based on how corroded those cans look.

[v8_ranch]

OK, so that fuse is also part of the hazard circuit?

[v8_ranch]

Linda, were you saying to add a 30 amp fuse in this wire? Red arrow

[v8_ranch]

Ok, found more info on the fuse for the ammeter circuit, but wondering is that also for a 68, or is that just for the early cars?

[notoptoy]

Lots of questions, with no time to answer!
The 30A fuse in the alternator/ammeter circuit is recommended for ALL years.
Two flasher cans, one for the regular circuit and one for hazards.