SU carb problems on R16

[Slackline]

Ok. I'll get them in sync at idle, then reconnect the dogbone and get them in sync at 2000.

Thanks.

[spl310]

https://datsunroadsterranch.com/

Read the link on this site about adjusting the carbs.

[Slackline]

That is the article I used yesterday. Everything worked up until I got to the mixture adjustment portion. Then the changes I was making were not matching up to what the car was supposed to be doing.

So today I am using the Magic Number method.

Update:
The car is idling at around 800. Both flowing equally. When I lift the rear piston, initial rise, then settle in rpm. When I lift the front piston, initial rpm rise then settle.

2000 rpm. Flowing equally. When I lift either piston, the rpm drops but stays running.

Am I close?

Am I done?

[Slackline]

Also, here is a small video of idle.

Is my valvetrain too noisy?
Set to .017 warm.

Thanks

[Linda]

Sounds good on carbs. Be sure no hang up on the choke linkeage. Dog bones should not alter the idle setting. RPM screw at the top should not be doing anything. All covered in the Keith write up.
You might take it for a drive and see how it does. Pull the plugs to check after but don’t let it idle. If backfire, a miss etc you may have to fine tune or check plug wires, Dizzy cap etc. Is the dizzy good, no wobble in shaft? Good tune up parts? Good gaskets?
You might need to adjust the magic number but it is a reputable starting point if floats are set correctly too. Might as well check that
Good job!
Check dashpot oil. I like Marvel Mystery oil but Keith mentions others also.
The little fuel hoses from the bowls should be soft not hard or oversized as it can affect the nozzles.
Valves sound a little noisy, but always hard to tell on video. Did you set them hot?
You can put a bolt where that hose is on the intake manifold..
Linda

[Slackline]

Yes, set valves when hot.
I have not changed any of the tune up parts except the plugs. Did not find any slop in rotor when setting point gap.
Hose on intake - yes, I'll plug that and get rid of the hose. Lots of stuff needs to be cleaned up on this one.
He has a cheap fuel filter along with the factory jar up front, 2 cooling fans, poorly routed fuel lines, wires, cables, etc.

I am trying to get this done one step at a time. If I think about all of the stuff I want to change, it will overwhelm me.

Thank you all for your help.
I just want to get it running right, fix things that are not correct, then drive it and figure out if I want to change anything.

Rob

[Linda]

Yes, one step at a time, checking each system at some point.
Consider an aftermarket fuel filter for reliability otherwise the jar type can suck air...but they are OEM.
Linda

[notoptoy]

I am trying to get this done one step at a time. If I think about all of the stuff I want to change, it will overwhelm me.

Thank you all for your help.
I just want to get it running right, fix things that are not correct, then drive it and figure out if I want to change anything.

Rob

PERFECT approach and one I highly recommend. Enjoy the ride in between projects!

[Slackline]

Thanks.

Just took it for a quick run. Runs better. No stumbling, burbling, etc.

One step closer.....

[spl310]

Make sure that you have plenty of slack in the foot throttle cable

[Slackline]

Ok. There is slack to the point that when you give the pedal full throttle, there is still a little more to go in the linkage.

[Linda]

You just need enough slack to avoid the cable bumping up the idle as it heats up with motor running....it shortens. So a bit of slack needed.
Linda

[Slackline]

Started it tonight.

Tach bounces but it seems to be idling at 700 or less cold. I added a little more slack to the throttle cable but it didn’t change the idle rpm.

Runs a lot better now when cold.

Thanks again everyone.

[Linda]

Tach cable might need lube. Try at the dizzy end as the guage end is hard to reconnect. Might be loose also, just tighten
Linda