Timing chain question.

[jrusso07]

As the bad guy said in "Dirty Harry" in the first " do you feel lucky punk?" segment...

"I gots to know"

How is your car running?

[newby]

Greg, Joe,
Sorry for the delay in the response. It's been crazy my Internet went down and getting the compression test done was no easy task. I had to go to 3 different places to find a compression tester that worked. If I did it right I was getting about 125 psi consistently across all of the cylinders. The problem I was having was that if I cranked it over too long with a few of the testers the psi gauge just kept rising up to 200 psi but it would not release pressure. Anyway. After that I reset all the settings on the carburetors and I think I got them balanced now. But it's still shaking a bit. I can post a video of it running now if y'all want. Again thanks for the help and for being patient enough to get me through this.

[SLOroadster]

You are supposed to crank it till it stops. I don't know why people say only crank it 5 revolutions, I've never seen a motor push more than about 100 psi on 5. A healthy motor should show somewhere between 190 and 200 psi unless higher compression pistons are used. I was told to open the throttles and crank till it stops. When the needle stops its always in the correct range, unless there is a problem on that specific cylinder.

Will

[fj20spl311]

You are supposed to crank it till it stops. I don't know why people say only crank it 5 revolutions, I've never seen a motor push more than about 100 psi on 5. A healthy motor should show somewhere between 190 and 200 psi unless higher compression pistons are used. I was told to open the throttles and crank till it stops. When the needle stops its always in the correct range, unless there is a problem on that specific cylinder.

Will

+1 for Will's method.........

It will never go higher than the "real" pressure in the cylinders.........

[Gregs672000]

Yes, crank until it reaches max, but on mine that was usually 5-6 cranks or pumps to the unit. However, if they are all equal then that sounds like you have not damaged a valve. Some shaking is not that unusual, I've never had a buttery smooth idle like a modern car.

Sounds like you should go through a good break in process (try to not idle it a bunch, take it out and work through the gears, gradually going higher with the RPMs between shifts assuming it is ok with it, not knocking or pinging, etc). Lets seat the rings, and go through some heat cycles. Then we can see how she is doing. Be sure to check your plugs on a regular basis to monitor your air/fuel mix, and don't let them get white (lean). Tan is nice, black is too rich but a lot safer than lean!

[jrusso07]

Agree with Greg, both my U20s shake at idle but smooth right out with higher rpms. That is primarily why I set my idle in the 800 to 900 range.

Drive it for a bit and see if she settles in.

[newby]

Sounds good guys. I'll redo the compression again let I crank 5 or 6 times till it stops. I pulled the plugs again to redo the test. Tey look tan so I think I'm doing good. I'll do it again an report.

[Bozlee73]

Every time I turn off my ignition, my engine shakes a lot for like 3 to 6 seconds or so. What could be the cause of this? Thanks in advance! 1966 1600 roadster.

[Gregs672000]

Run on is caused by a lean condition. Try richening your carbs a bit at idle. Also, make sure your running correct heat range plugs, NGK BP6ES... 6 being the heat. 7 is colder, 5 is hotter for NGK.

[fj20spl311]

Run on can also be caused by a carbon build up. There are products like SeaFoam for cleaning carbon deposits. We used to use diesel fuel, water also works, but you need to be careful.

[Gregs672000]

Agreed... hot spots...