66 dash pad

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dbrick
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66 dash pad

Post by dbrick »

I'm thinking of getting a replacement, but I heard 2 versions of what's needed to install, opinion 1 is it is easy, remove steering wheel, take out the screws and put the new pad in. Opinion 2 you need to remove the dash, gauges, windshield etc.

If opinion 2 is correct, the one in the car is just fine for now.
Thanks

Dave Brisco

Take my advice, I'm not using it"

66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
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fj20spl311
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by fj20spl311 »

I don't know about getting the old one off.

The new one can be installed with out removing the gauges....
Phil
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pebbles
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by pebbles »

I think there are six fasteners along the front edge, two at each defrost vent and two way outboard where the windshield curves, (one on each side). If your car is nice they may come out easy. maybe.
The low windshield slants aft slightly more than a tall windshield, I think.
The frail trim surround must come off as well. I think. I have no idea what secures the pins.
There must be a few fasteners along the lower portion of the pad too. 7 on the bottom and 1 on each side near the A pillar. easy.
toneau twisties 4? yeowch.
rear view mirror. how easy is that to remove with the center console installed?
Should be a piece of cake on a warm summer day. or two. have a barbq. :wink:
David




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jamesw
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by jamesw »

Dave:

To get the little pins for the trim/surround out I think you may have to take the dash off. This is my experience from removing mine in the 67

Cheers
James
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Curtis
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by Curtis »

You do not need to remove the trim surround. I'm not sure why you would. However, I can't see how you can possibly install it with the windshield on. Even with the windshield off it was a bit of a chore to get everything lined up. Top screws at the front were easy after I ran a tap through them all. The others were a pain.

I had the dash out for work and reinstalled it and then put on the new pad.
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
fossil
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by fossil »

To install one of my fiberglass/ foam/ vinyl dashes it is not necessary to remove the dash or the gauges. It is not necessary to remove the trim ring on the dash face. It is necessary to remove the original dash pad screws along with the pad, the mirror and the steering wheel. It may be easier to remove the windshield (4 bolts and 2 nuts under the dash). If one is going to reinstall the mirror, the hole locations are marked on the inside of the dash pad and must be drilled for the model of the car since 67.5 mirror location and mountings are different from earlier models. Twistie holes have been drilled in the fiberglass shell and their location has been identified, however, the foam and vinyl remains in tact in order to allow the twisties to be deleted so the top is smooth and the holes will not be visible. All of the necessary mounting holes have been drilled to allow installing the screws.

Stan
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peter
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by peter »

Stan, do you mean that you don't have to install the twisters, or do you fill the holes than with some kit in the new dash? or aren't the drilled in the new dash?
I found it very difficult to remove the mirror, and with the windshield up its almost impossible I guess.
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
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fj20spl311
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by fj20spl311 »

I have two of Stan's Dash Covers. Both came marked but un-drilled for the twisties or mirror.

I mount the mirror on the center rod so I can adjust the height.
Phil
67.5 SRL311-00148 Blue (FJ cruiser VOODOO Blue)
67.5 SPL311 FJ20E teal SDS EFI
69 SRL311 SOLD
19 Raptor SCAB
fossil
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by fossil »

Hello Peter,

What I intended to say was that the twistie holes were pre-drilled in the fiberglass dash shell but they were covered up with foam and vinyl. It is done that way so that twisties can be omitted if the owner chooses. Alternately, twisties can be installed by piercing the foam and vinyl on the dash and inserting them through the predrilled holes. If one chooses to omit the twisties, there is no visible indication on the top of the dash that the twistie holes were drilled in the fiberglass.

Stan
==========

[quote]Stan, do you mean that you don't have to install the twisters, or do you fill the holes than with some kit in the new dash? or aren't the drilled in the new dash?
I found it very difficult to remove the mirror, and with the windshield up its almost impossible I guess.


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peter
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by peter »

That's nice, so I have a choice to use or not to use the twisters, I don't like them :wink:
I need later on also a new dash, but first the body, today I finished the second floorboard to weld.
And the mirror, I like to use the original again when it can be re-chromed.
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
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dbrick
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by dbrick »

Thanks all. I don't mind removing the windshield, but as long as the gauges etc stay put, I'm fine. I still have the temptation to try to recover it in red to see how it looks. My guess is it will look either totally horrible or really good, no middle ground.

Dave Brisco

Take my advice, I'm not using it"

66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
1962 Thompson Sea Lancer, possible money pit
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peter
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by peter »

dbrick wrote: I still have the temptation to try to recover it in red to see how it looks. My guess is it will look either totally horrible or really good, no middle ground.
it depends on the cars color(white) and his interior(red), but its not mine, I like it original.
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
gmagana

Re: 66 dash pad

Post by gmagana »

To install any dash pads it is best to remove the windshield frame and steering wheel. No gauge removal is necessary, no trim ring removal is needed. The Windshield has 4 bolts along the side pieces and 2 nuts in the center. Nuts in the center are metric 10 mm if memory serves me and the side are 5/8. The screws that hold the dash are 10/32 and should have the threads restored using a thread restoring kit (available at Harbor Freight, I have the SnapOn Brand) rather than a tap which is too aggressive. The screws are also fragile and if broken you should exercise caution in removal. I use a dental drill by MAC tools with a ball burr for broken screws and create a center point for the drill bit. I then use a number 29 drill bit or 7/64 drill bit and drill through the center of the broken screw. In those broken screw areas I would use a tap for rethreading. I would recommend using stainless steel pan head phillips 10/32 hardware for replacement along with #10 flat washer. The 67.5 mirror requires a 10/32 oval head phillips fastener, stainless steel once again preferred.

Two choices for Dash pads one is the Stan version pictured with round edges:
Image

Newer generation mold from OEM dash with sharp edges made by Tad who is an academy award winner for his work in the motion picture industry (lucas films, Spielberg etc..): pm me for information on this dash
Image
Image

Carbon fiber Dash support made for installing dash to a high windshield car:pm me for information on this item
Image
Kriegs
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Re: 66 dash pad

Post by Kriegs »

Hi -

Looking for information on the carbon fiber dash option. Converting my high windshield '69 to a flat dash and trying to avoid fabricating my own top dash piece. Thank you!
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