directionals-resolved

[C.Costine]

I can't get my directionals on my '67 to work. Every other light and the horn on the car is working, key on, new flasher, no directionals or indicators. The flasher gets power. My test light shines bright on the green but much dimmer on the white connection. The voltmeter works, however, the fuel and water temp gauges do not yet. I diss-assembled the column switch awhile ago. I cleaned it up good and lubricated it. everything about it seemed straight forward.

[fj20spl311]

The first thing I would do is bypass the T/S switch.
On a 67, there should be two green wires that go to the two T/S circuits.
G/R for the left and G/B for the right.
Jumper 12v to those wires after unplugging the T/S
If the light or blink, if you run the current through the relay, then its in the T/S
You might have too much grease.

[C.Costine]

The first thing I would do is bypass the T/S switch.
On a 67, there should be two green wires that go to the two T/S circuits.
G/R for the left and G/B for the right.
Jumper 12v to those wires after unplugging the T/S
If the light or blink, if you run the current through the relay, then its in the T/S
You might have too much grease.

OK, thanks Phill, I will give that a try.

[Curtis]

If you disassembled your turn switch then hopefully you did not let the little U shaped copper contact piece inside go somewhere. The turn switch will not work without it. Ask Greg Burrows. His never worked until I fixed his switch by replacing the missing piece.

To troubleshoot as directed hook 12v power to each of those wires. The lights should come on. Then you can disconnect the white wire from the flasher can and bridge power to each of those wires. With car power turned on the flashers should work. If so then you have a problem with the switch.

[C.Costine]

Well, finally I have directionals! Bypassing the switch as suggested brought one of the directionals and the corresponding dash indicator on. So I dug into the directional switch. First I cleaned up grease where there could have been too much, but this made no difference. I opened it up again and checked connections and continuity from interior to the ends of the wires. I found no problems with the wires but found some other suspicious thing that I don't remember now, but still no joy when I put it back together. Finally with it off the column but still together I was checking for voltage again, when I found that the tangs to the U-shaped copper slide part were showing voltage intermittently. If I pressed on them my test light would light but would go out without pressure. Taking it apart again I removed the U-shaped copper slide, and found that there was a hole behind it perhaps to hold a spacer or a spring, I thought of a ball bearing, but then decided on a spring, finally settling on a cut down ballpoint pen spring. Putting it back together I finally had directional lights. So, Curtis you were right, it was U-shaped the copper part, but not absent, instead present but not able to work, Thanks to you both!!

[Curtis]

Yay, another one solved. Glad I could help.

[eastmedia]

Question. My 66 has directionals that light up (dash and exterior bulbs) when the signal stalk is engaged, but do not flash. I tried a known working flasher from a 1970, but still no flash. Is the 66 flash unit specific?

[RustBucket]

Do you have LED's for the light bulbs? They don't draw enough to make the clicker click. Use a solid state flasher instead.
If it used to work and now it doesn't then you've got some other type of problem (blown or grounded bulb or something).
Sounds like low current draw to me though.
Rustbucket

[eastmedia]

Yes, they are led. I just ready that in the wiki. Is solid state readily available?

[raylim]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIU9M0Y/re ... xAbMVPQNSH

[eastmedia]

I found this. Works just as well. a few $ more, but I was able to pick up near me. Thanks for the knowledge.

https://www.grainger.com/product/GROTE- ... sher-2VNK3