MORE POWER FROM AN R16

[CSP311]

From what I gather, to see if your R16 is 3 or 5 main bearing, its from engine number, 5 mains from R-40001.

As the CSP is sooo rare, especially with its original engine, it maybe easier just to pep up the stock set-up, espically if the 3 main parts aren't stock. Keeping true to the cars originality is key here.

Speaking to a fellow Silvia owner in Aus, Lou likes driving the Silvia, espcially when well set-up in its stock set-up.

[Red CSP]

I agree that because CSPs especially ones mostly stock are so rare keeping the car standard looking is a good idea.
Ive done that with my 32GTR which is now 100% stock which makes it one rare puppy , Diffference is though with 280 its a nice drive. I know the CSP will be much slower and that will bore me.
SO some tuning is going to happen . - anything internal goes as far as Im concerned ,

Im grateful for any help and all the suggestions and thanks for the info so far. But as stated boundaries are stock carbs and head and no obvious add ons (turbo etc)

[Tomc18]

I have a 66 1600 roadster with a 5 main block with a standard H20 crank, and i know of at least one Silvia here with a 5 main block - so check your block first its 50/50 either way, also does it have an iron or alloy head? Lou M has one stroker H crank left here from a run he had done that will drop straight into a 5 bearing block for 2.3l capacity in an R16 making a very torquey engine (one is going into a Silvia here already). If its 3 main it's more complicated, but they do spin up more quickly with lighter weight and feel more like the original 1600, but with more power. You can always have a stroker billet crank made, which will give you whatever capacity you need.

Keith Williams has a mod to get better flow out of stock Hitachi SU's which is quite clever if you don't want to go to the larger size, and you'll need to get enough air for the extra capacity

[Curtis]

If you want to go the R18 route I would contact Richard and see if he has a 1500 crank. For rods you have to decide whether to use the 1500 or 1600 rods. Either way you'll have to find a piston to work. But as JT said it is not a drop in the crank upgrade.

With a 5 main if you can get an H20 crank and rods it is pretty straight forward. Otherwise you have to go the trouble of getting a heavier U20 crank and rods and having the snout shortened 1" or make the spacer like one owner did.

I have a 5 main R20 in my car and the power and torque are great. You can get away with all stock components. It has the flat top U20 pistons, H20 crank, rods, iron head, stock SU's. Only mods are a little hotter cam and matched ports for the intake to head. And now that I have solved the timing gear mystery I expect it will really pull when I slip it back in after the rust repairs.

I am currently deciding on whether my restoration car will be an R18 so the numbers match. I have the 1500 crank and rods already. I will get forged pistons made.

[augsburger]

The lightened and balanced 225mm flywheel and pressure plate assembly from DRP really made a difference. Put back in the DATO

[JT68]

Good info Curtis. Since it is a 3-main, Richard probably has a 1500 crank, If not, I do. Shipping likely is cheaper from NL. Stock rods are fine especially with ARP rod bolts.

On the 5main, a U20 crank is nice because it already has the Col. Joe oiling improvements (that's where he got the idea BTW) and is fully counterbalanced. Yes, a bit heavier, , but that is rotating mass at a very small radius. I prefer the u20 crank for those reasons, but the Hcrank certainly works. We also have the pulley spacers "on-the-shelf" so you don't have to shorten the u20 crank nose which is a PIA and ruins that crank for any future U20 project. You do need to add a keyway to the U crank for the R timing sprocket. (it is in the wrong place). That is a fairly fussy milling op- but that is not required with the H crank.

Totally agree with you on the pistons Curtis, hit us up for forged pistons when you get there since we keep them in stock and we make them all the time. Would just have to respec the pin height. trivial. I used those same Toyota pistons 10 or 15 years ago, and by the time you have done all the necessary machining operations, you are a couple hundred bucks away from WAY better forged pistons. A few hundred bucks is a drop in the bucket for a serious stroker engine. I sent Lou some forged pistons a while back as well, they were very large bore.

[Gregs672000]

In my humble opinion, I think you're limiting the tuning of the engine by staying with SU carbs. Nissan made a manifold for Solex carbs for the R16, so technically you could still be stock (ish) with a similar sidedraft carb and have the ability to adjust things a bit more. Just my .02. And not a dig on SUs!

[JT68]

Its s good point Greg, while the Pierce manifold is pretty awful, the addition of mikunis, webers or del's, with a light FW, moderate valve and cam improvements and accurately setting the CR so you can optimize timing, its a whole different engine from a typical R16. While not an R23, a healthy 1600 with these improvements is a blast that drive. I think that is what Augsburger was saying too.

[Red CSP]

Clearly I need to kerb my enthusiam untill I can confirm the 3 or 5 question . That will currently scheduled to be the 17th.
Meanwhile a pic of the RB30 swop for peoples amusement

gm engine bay.jpg

[fj20spl311]

My suggestion would be to get an R16 or H20 5 main to build and keep the original motor Stock.

[23yrRebuild]

+1 on Phil's suggestion. Also, if you haven't already, checkout the Stroker Poll topic...
Mike

[RCMike]

I always thought a roadster would be fun with an RB26 and attessa

[Red CSP]

Anything is fun with an RB in it
I have a couple of cars with RBs in and the motors and box are huge (longer than the v6 ) . Cant see one fiiting in a CSP or a roadster but huge respect to anyone who attempts it.