I think you have scored a great project and look forward to reading about your progress. It is definitely a 67 half year 1600. Big give away is the three dash toggle switches. Have fun with it.
Steve
Looking at a 67 1600 locally
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Re: Looking at a 67 1600 locally
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
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- Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
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- Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:08 pm
Re: Looking at a 67 1600 locally
You are certainly optimistic! "I get to get it roadworthy and have a 60 day temp tag at my disposal for short little trips to road test it myself" I started to do a quick prep for a paint job in Feb 2015. It wasn't until Nov of '17 that I could finally say that I was getting closer each month instead of further from completion. I have driven it on the road and now I am hopefully just a few days from getting it registered.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
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- Location: Denver, CO
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
Re: Looking at a 67 1600 locally
Optimistic of course! Although that's not 60 days within receiving the vehicle of course
, but I'm certainly going to be using the two years of anticipation from looking to get some of the big stuff taken care of ASAP.
Between our schedules the car will be taken care of tomorrow, I work a night shift, and he's moving so it's been a blast coordinating the deal. I'll be sure to get a bunch of pics, and start a build thread of the progress and to keep my questions and everything in a central place.

Between our schedules the car will be taken care of tomorrow, I work a night shift, and he's moving so it's been a blast coordinating the deal. I'll be sure to get a bunch of pics, and start a build thread of the progress and to keep my questions and everything in a central place.
1968 CJ-5
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
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- Location: Denver, CO
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
Re: Looking at a 67 1600 locally
I received the vehicle this morning!
I couldn’t be more excited for this project. Last “project†car I had was an Audi Allroad with several choice upgrades. Alas that car was a huge pain to work on which is one of the reasons I’ve been eyeballing these older, much more simple cars.
I got it in the garage, vacuumed the engine compartment and passenger area. Pulled up all carpet, removed battery and looked for rust. None that I could find and I looked hard for it. Floor panels are all 100% solid and so are the fenders, and other areas mentioned earlier in this thread.
Plan is to drain any left over oil, and crank by hand after fresh oil. Battery, and see if it can start up. Then brakes and tackling each system at a time.
I noticed there was fluid in the clutch master, none in the brake master. What’s the best way to start flushing these systems out?
Also, once the oil is drained and refilled, is it ok to put sea foam or another type of cleaner in there to start breaking up old gunk?
Here’s a link to the album for more pics!! Any and all info, tips, or suggestions are welcome so I can go about this as smooth as possible.
Mike
https://imgur.com/gallery/y8A8Rij
I couldn’t be more excited for this project. Last “project†car I had was an Audi Allroad with several choice upgrades. Alas that car was a huge pain to work on which is one of the reasons I’ve been eyeballing these older, much more simple cars.
I got it in the garage, vacuumed the engine compartment and passenger area. Pulled up all carpet, removed battery and looked for rust. None that I could find and I looked hard for it. Floor panels are all 100% solid and so are the fenders, and other areas mentioned earlier in this thread.
Plan is to drain any left over oil, and crank by hand after fresh oil. Battery, and see if it can start up. Then brakes and tackling each system at a time.
I noticed there was fluid in the clutch master, none in the brake master. What’s the best way to start flushing these systems out?
Also, once the oil is drained and refilled, is it ok to put sea foam or another type of cleaner in there to start breaking up old gunk?
Here’s a link to the album for more pics!! Any and all info, tips, or suggestions are welcome so I can go about this as smooth as possible.
Mike
https://imgur.com/gallery/y8A8Rij
1968 CJ-5
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
- pebbles
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Re: Looking at a 67 1600 locally
Many pull the spark plugs and drop a little marvel in the cyls prior to cranking.
I like to leave the spark plugs out until i see oil pressure on the gauge and fuel squirting all over the place lol.
Should be a drain plug on the bottom of the fuel tank. Drain it.
Pop the dist cap, file, polish, and gap the points. Run your finger around the dist point cam to ensure its lubed.
Once it cranks over, replace old rubber fuel lines.
I like to leave the spark plugs out until i see oil pressure on the gauge and fuel squirting all over the place lol.
Should be a drain plug on the bottom of the fuel tank. Drain it.
Pop the dist cap, file, polish, and gap the points. Run your finger around the dist point cam to ensure its lubed.
Once it cranks over, replace old rubber fuel lines.
David
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
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Re: Looking at a 67 1600 locally
As has been said, pull the valve cover and squirt oil liberally all along the shaft. renew it a few times. I would switch over to silicone brake fluid. It requires a total flush. Though it is not likely that you can save your brakes I think that it is worth a try to pump crud and water out, and you could get lucky. Just open all the bleeders and run a pint through, then see if you can build pressure.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
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- Roadster Fanatic
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:36 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
Re: Looking at a 67 1600 locally
Well I had a bit of a good day.
The gas line is D/C'd before the pump, so I have little worry about the gas line currently. My goal was to turn it over by hand, then go form there. I ended up checking the oil which was completely full! YES, that's a great place to start. Drained it out and replaced that and the filter with new. Pulled the valve cover and oiled up the shaft like mentioned. Put the cover back on and filled the engine. With a new battery in place and a can of ether, I had my daughter turn the key a few times and it fired right up for a few seconds. I have a handful of other things to do before I really run it, but this was about as exciting as it could be.
Next I'll pull the gas tank and clean out the lines. It had an electric fuel pump, I'm not sure why, that also feeds to the mechanical pump. The wires for the electric pump are not connected to anything so I have a little troubleshooting to do. The goal is to have the car running and be able to start with gas by the end of the day tomorrow.
I also found some rust.... After crawling around under the car for quite some time I found none underneath, however there is some under the battery tray.
Mike
The gas line is D/C'd before the pump, so I have little worry about the gas line currently. My goal was to turn it over by hand, then go form there. I ended up checking the oil which was completely full! YES, that's a great place to start. Drained it out and replaced that and the filter with new. Pulled the valve cover and oiled up the shaft like mentioned. Put the cover back on and filled the engine. With a new battery in place and a can of ether, I had my daughter turn the key a few times and it fired right up for a few seconds. I have a handful of other things to do before I really run it, but this was about as exciting as it could be.
Next I'll pull the gas tank and clean out the lines. It had an electric fuel pump, I'm not sure why, that also feeds to the mechanical pump. The wires for the electric pump are not connected to anything so I have a little troubleshooting to do. The goal is to have the car running and be able to start with gas by the end of the day tomorrow.
I also found some rust.... After crawling around under the car for quite some time I found none underneath, however there is some under the battery tray.
Mike
1968 CJ-5
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600
2007 Audi S4
2003 Audi Allroad Stg 2
1967.5 1600