Looking at a 67 1600 locally

The Neck · Post by **The Neck** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 5:04 pm

Hey guys,

I'm proud to say after months and months of looking, getting life nonsense taken care of, and finally finding a good looking car for my goals and price range.

Car is local, a 67 1600 that is about 95-99% complete. Looking over the car I couldn't find any rust, body is in great shape, and has been sitting in a garage for the last 13 years to collect dust. Car ran when it was parked. Price is great, and everything seems to be there. Even has the factory service manual that the dealerships were given, the original jack, spare, and almost everything on it is straight as an arrow.

Rough plan at this point, get it home in the garage, get a battery in it, start replacing fluids, and figuring what rubber needs to also be replaced. I'm very excited for this car, and the only speed bump is this title nonsense which shouldn't be too bad.

I've had some pretty good experience with car builds before ranging from a 68 JCJ-5, to a newer Audi twin turbo built wagon. What are the gremlins I should keep an eye out for? Obviously the rubber is old, and has been sitting. Aside from sticking a battery on it and seeing where I stand with getting it running, brakes are first on the list.

Here's the craigslist ad for some more info.

https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/bro ... 06123.html

Only downside, is there's no title to the car. I've started looking into this process, and it doesn't look too terribly difficult.

Mike

Post by **2mAn** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 5:13 pm

I would double check and make sure that the title is in the sellers name before picking it up

The Neck · Post by **The Neck** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 5:27 pm

There is no title. The previous owner has passed, and the title is gone. After talking with the county, I need a couple things to get a new title, and is should be a fairly straight forward process. The seller has been very transparent about everything, which of course I'll take with a grain of salt, but still do my homework.

Post by **notoptoy** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 6:17 pm

That is a 67.5 my friend. Good deal, looking forward to the progress. Post lots of pictures as you go.
Things to watch for, the brakes, as you note - they will probably be toast throughout - and there is no "cheap fix".
See if it has the brake/firewall brace - if not, get one. IF not, and even if has the brace, you may see a crack in the firewall near the master cylinder - take care of this as you do the brakes. Check the front brake caliper lines, if there is a black plastic coating, take it off immediately, and inspect for pin hole rust. These never should have been installed from the factory as they retain moisture and cause the lines to rust and fail here.

Drop and clean the tank, and the lines up to the fuel pump, they will likely be contaminated or plugged. Save yourself future hassle and do this before running the car - start if off a remote gas can if possible until you get this cleaned up. Have lots of fuel filters on hand otherwise!

spags1986 · Post by **spags1986** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 6:47 pm

That is a great buy! I would pull the valve cover and pour some oil over all the components then pull the coil wire and crank the motor a few times to get oil flowing before starting it. I would also pull each spark plug and shoot a little oil down each cylinder.

mraitch · Post by **mraitch** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:14 pm

Rust, rust, rust

Main places

Cockpit floors in front of seats - often hard to see because of the 'sealant' they put there.
Rear of front fender at the bottom - almost guaranteed
Rear of car under the side compartments level with the rear wheels
Under battery tray

Split in trunk floor from gas filler to to driver side rear. Caused by the fact that the gas tank is suspended from the FRAME at the front and the BODY at the rear.

But none of these are, in themselves, deal breakers unless you are buying an upmarket car - then it is an indication of "other" unsorted stuff.

With the exception of some of the 'pretty bits', mostly side moulding and the aluminum door surrounds, most vendors will have the 'mechanical' bits you need.

And, I always recommend a rigourous reading of the tech-wiki to see all the issues and the workarounds, and caveats.

Good luck.

The Neck · Post by **The Neck** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:21 pm

I've spent a little time doing some digging on this title situation. Inside the car was a registration to him and his soon to be ex-wife. So whatever transparency I thought there was, is not looking so transparent any more. I've called him and left a message, and want to make sure there isn't some grudge that's gonna make this a massive PITA moving forward. Otherwise the car is in my limited Datsun opinion a great buy.

Next post should either be a "YES! I got it figured out" or a "Well I decided to walk so I don't end up with a garage with a parts car"

theunz · Post by **theunz** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:52 pm

Sounds shady now for sure. If you buy it without the title than the wife shows up with the title, then you show up with no car and I bet not much chance of getting your money back. I bet you have already figured this out, so good diligence on your part. If all is kosher than it is a fair deal on price. If you end up with a bad motor, trans, or rear end, or the suspension and steering is sloppy than you could easily be looking at five grand or more just to get it safe and dependable. I'll bet the front calipers and the master cylinder will need to be replaced and probably the rear brake cylinders as well. If the drive train turns out to be in good shape then you win, if not then you'll end up paying as much as a running example. Good luck, and proceed with caution.

Post by **C.Costine** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:13 pm

theunz wrote: Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:53 pm Sounds shady now for sure. If you buy it without the title than the wife shows up with the title, then you show up with no car and I bet not much chance of getting your money back. I bet you have already figured this out, so good diligence on your part. If all is kosher than it is a fair deal on price. If you end up with a bad motor, trans, or rear end, or the suspension and steering is sloppy than you could easily be looking at five grand or more just to get it safe and dependable. I'll bet the front calipers and the master cylinder will need to be replaced and probably the rear brake cylinders as well. If the drive train turns out to be in good shape then you win, if not then you'll end up paying as much as a running example. Good luck, and proceed with caution.

Arrgh, sorry about the double post. Out camping in Colorado mountains and Internet is little funky here.

Camping with an internet connection is I believe now called "glamping" for glamour camping.

The Neck · Post by **The Neck** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:25 pm

Had a great discussion with the guy for the last 20 min about the title situation, and some other topics that slipped my mind while I was fixated on the title. Registration was for a 10 day temp tag to get it moved, and will send me pics of the rest of the documentation he has like his bill of sale, previous owner registration, and anything else he has. He gave me the name and info for the last titled owner who has passed, and everything is looking kosher.

I've been reading the tech section all afternoon, getting a nice list of must do items and nice to do items upon receipt of the car. The nice thing is I get to get it roadworthy and have a 60 day temp tag at my disposal for short little trips to road test it myself before The Man takes a look at it.

Set for Wednesday morning to get it loaded up on a trailer of his and brought to my garage. Now I just gotta wait til Wednesday!

Thanks for the replies guys, this is gonna be a blast!

The Neck · Post by **The Neck** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:11 pm

Ok so on to some more enjoyable topics.

Body: It's in great shape, and upon looking underneath, in the foot wells, and wheel liners, I found no rust. Like none.

Engine: the compartment was dusty, with minimal debris in the bay. Some oil leakage from the head, but none on the floor under the car that I could tell. Battery was in the pass side of the engine bay, and will be replaced immediately when I start off with the compression test and hand turning the car.

Suspension: Seemed to be fairly stiff upon testing out the corners, a little creak from the driver side rear.

Interior: Only a crack or two on the dash liner, seats were decent, and everything turned, opened, latched, and worked relatively smooth. Windshield is intact.

https://i.imgur.com/0Ea8tgT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CWbbdTn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vXcdmJS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mpavtfG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BFc6wWK.jpg

redroadster · Post by **redroadster** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:30 pm

No title and a out of state car (was last regis out of state has the owner paid personal prop taxes on it ) is a big problemo. Here ,bet it is there too. Usually the guy your are buying it from has to get a title so he can then sell it. and fees can be $$$

The Neck · Post by **The Neck** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:33 pm

Car is instate, and the paperwork is looking relatively straight forward after a call and a visit to the registration office, and a call to the law man that does the VIN certification. It doesn't need a bond due to age, and it's about 4 steps to a new title.

AC77 · Post by **AC77** » Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:44 pm

Congrats, best of luck.

YouTube · Post by **Mackn367** » Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:31 pm

At 1st glance it looks like you actually got a 67.5 there which I believe is a bit more "popular" - Hope it all works out! Keep us updated

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