SBF 302 - T5 swap

[speedbug78]

At the request of a couple members here I am documenting what I consider the minimum alterations to body and chassis to swap in a 302 and T5. I have more than the minimum done to my car to accommodate features I wanted. I don't have patterns or measurements to give you, this is just an idea of what is involved. Forgive the state of things, I consider my car "roughed in" and am

Engine:
The biggest thing first. The front cross member needs to be moved. The engine's oil pump and front pulley want to live here, so unless the plan is to run w/o a pulley and use a dry sump, or mount the engine very high, this has to be done.

Crossmember_Cut.jpeg

The stock engine mounts need to be removed and new ones installed.

Radiator:
The bracket on top of the frame near the steering box needs an inch or so cut out to clear an oil filter relocation kit.

Oil_Filter.jpeg

Transmission:
The entrance to the tunnel needs to be widened. I cut small pieces out of the firewall, expanded the tunnel with a hammer then welded it back together. I’m going to guess around 2” at the sides, maybe more toward the top, but the tunnel doesn’t need to be raised at all and the stock pedal location is fine.

Driver's Tunnel.jpeg

Pass_Tunnel.jpeg

A small section in the top corner of the frame’s “X” needs to be clearanced for the edge of the transmission (maybe a 1”x2” section?). If you could see through the transmission in this picture the red area needs to be worked.

Transmission_Clearance.jpeg

Holes need to be drilled in the frame to allow bolting up the transmission.

Transmission_Bolts.jpeg

The gap between the engine valve covers and the brake system on the firewall is around 1".

Engine_Rear.jpeg

Shifter:
With this arrangement the shifter ends up toward the front of the shifter hole. I think the stock shifter would clear, but I had to make some room for the short throw shifter.

Shifter_Position.jpeg

Steering shaft:
I was able to *just* get the steering shaft to go around my headers. I have 1 u-joint that has too much angle though, so I plan to re-do it which will mean enlarging the hole for the steering shaft into the firewall. What I have now needs 3 u-joints added to the steering shaft.

Steering_Shaft.jpeg

Exhaust:
Custom exhaust needs to be made and I don't see the room to run it anywhere but through the inner fenders. It doesn't need to run outside the fenders though, there is enough room to run it under the car (maybe relocate the fuel line).

Inner_Fender.jpeg

Cooling:
A very short cooling system needs to be run (like the davies craig setup w/electric pump) if the radiator support isn’t going to be modified. Also a shorter radiator will need to be sourced. To run the stock water pump with electric fans I cut ~1.5” out of the length of the radiator support.
Here is an idea of how much I cut:

Radiator_Position.jpeg

Radiator_Clearance.jpeg

Hood:
With a “normal” short dual plane intake and a short air filter I don’t think any hood modifications would be required. I have a tall single plane intake and with an edlebrock carb (1406) I was just able to close the hood (no air filter).

Bellhousing:
If the engine and transmission are installed separately and a gear starter is used I don’t think the frame will need to be clearanced around the starter. I did mine for easier access, and because I thought the bellhousing was going to hit at first. The 157 tooth flywheel bell might help this, but the 157 tooth wheel might be longer?

Clutch:
A mustang clutch needs to be run as the normal 164 tooth clutch have a different shift fork and too much throw. A custom drive shaft needs to be built. I used the stock clutch master/slave combo and it works with a custom bracket and lengthened push rod (with a bracket mounting the slave farther forward I could have run the stock push rod).

Clutch_Slave.jpeg

[spl310]

The bell housing depth on the 157 and 164 flywheel setups is the same.

[bossbob]

Damn, that's awesome. Glad my stock 1600 runs. That's a lot of work.

[speedbug78]

The bell housing depth on the 157 and 164 flywheel setups is the same.

Good to know. The 157 bell would probably fit a bit easier then and it would be easier finding a flywheel to fit the mustang clutch.

[spl310]

What year 302 are you using? IIRC, later engines used a different imbalance. You can buy aftermarket flywheels with removable weights to adjust the imbalance from 28 to 50 oz or even go with 0.

[speedbug78]

The 302 I have came from a 70's full size car. It was old and tired when I got it but perfect for abusing while sorting out this project. Once I get things dialed a bit more I'll replace the short block.

This engine is a 28oz imbalance, and my flywheel uses swappable weights. I'm using a T5 from a '95 3.8 mustang, which works with the larger flywheel.

[speedbug78]

Here are some of the parts I used for my swap:

I fabricated my own clutch slave setup, but the same thing can be purchased here: Ebay Clutch Slave

s-l1600.jpg

The headers I used for flanges and turned up 90's are Schoenfeld 3522. They have a very tall, but somewhat narrow port profile, so they didn't line up with my heads very well. Not sure what head they are designed for: Ebay headers

headers.jpg

I used a driveshaft flange to match the Ford: Ebay driveshaft flange

flange.jpg

I used a short throw shifter (optional), but either way some shifter hole (body) clearancing will be needed.: Ebay short throw T5 shifter

shifter.jpg

I *think* this is the radiator I used (Griffin 1-25181-XS). It requires more modifications than the "minimum" above but once that is done, allows the stock water pump to be used on the sbf. It also cools really well: Summit Griffin radiator

1-25181-XS.jpg

I found that I could get tighter bends with stainless radiator hose than with conventional "universal" hose, however I had trouble when using too many of the reducers that come with the kit: Ebay SS radiator hose

SS rad hose.jpg

I used 3 7" electric radiator fans and so far they over cool my engine: Ebay Radiator Fans

rad fan.jpg

I used this kit which includes the temperature switch for the fans, and this inline hose adapter for the sensor. I had to drill and tap the NPT hole larger for the included sensor, but it all works well:
Ebay fan/sensor kit
Ebay sensor adapter

Rad sensor fan kit.jpg

rad sensor adapter.jpg

I needed to delete the fill on the aluminum radiator and use a remote one: Ebay remote rad fill

rad remote fill.jpg

I used these steering shaft bearings, but 3/4" heim joints may have been easier to fit: Ebay steering shaft bearing

Steering Bearing.jpg

These are the steering universals I used. They require machining flats on one end of the steering shaft:
Ebay Steering Universal

Steering Universal.jpg

[speedbug78]

Also, to clarify the input shaft information in this thread. The information I found is here. I have the 94-04 V-6 transmission so it should be 11/16" longer than the 83-93 V-8 transmission. That is good for you guys using the earlier stuff as you'll be able to move the engine back another 11/16" pretty easy (better F/R weight and more radiator room). I may get the spacer plate, or an earlier transmission and switch to the 157T bell housing at some point. I would do it mostly for the mustang flywheel options.