Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
- Cochecita
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 4:40 pm
- Location: Vancouver, Washington
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Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
Good afternoon to everyone,
Long time, no see.
In previous years, it only took about an hour in the Spring to get the roadster fired up and rolling. Part of this has always been pumping the clutch 5-10 times to build pressure back in the hydraulic system. For various reasons, Cochecita sat for almost 2 years and last week I finally got back to it. Some time on the charger, aired up the tires, sprayed a bit of starter fluid in the carbs and we were running.
Unfortunately, pumping the clutch pedal wasn't helping to build pressure. I tried some tips of banging on the master cylinder and slave cylinder while pumping it and that didn't make a difference. The fluid gets bubbly and a little frothy after working it, not sure if that's relevant. Should I be looking at replacing the slave cylinder, clutch master, or both? Anything else I should try before tearing into it?
Thank you for all your help and suggestions.
Eddie
Long time, no see.
In previous years, it only took about an hour in the Spring to get the roadster fired up and rolling. Part of this has always been pumping the clutch 5-10 times to build pressure back in the hydraulic system. For various reasons, Cochecita sat for almost 2 years and last week I finally got back to it. Some time on the charger, aired up the tires, sprayed a bit of starter fluid in the carbs and we were running.
Unfortunately, pumping the clutch pedal wasn't helping to build pressure. I tried some tips of banging on the master cylinder and slave cylinder while pumping it and that didn't make a difference. The fluid gets bubbly and a little frothy after working it, not sure if that's relevant. Should I be looking at replacing the slave cylinder, clutch master, or both? Anything else I should try before tearing into it?
Thank you for all your help and suggestions.
Eddie
- mraitch
- Roadsteraholic
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- Location: Lake Balboa (SFV) - CA
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
bleed, change fluid, check!
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
- jhayden
- Site Supporter
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- Location: Tyler, TX
Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
Welcome back!
You’ve obviously been bonded with Cochecita for a long time, so she’s not just another Fairlady. I would: replace master, slave and hose. Blow out the hard line with compressed air, then refill with SILICONE. You’re done, and you won’t be bothered with annual bleeding.
Others will no doubt chime in with reasons why NOT to do this (leaks, seal deterioration, whatever), so it’s your choice. Having done this with numerous vintage motorcycles (their brake systems are far more finicky than Fairladys) in addition to my own Fairladys, and having experienced bugerall in the way of problems, I will NEVER return to paint-eating brake fluid (except for ABS).
Floor is now open to comments from nattering nabobs of negativism.
Jon
You’ve obviously been bonded with Cochecita for a long time, so she’s not just another Fairlady. I would: replace master, slave and hose. Blow out the hard line with compressed air, then refill with SILICONE. You’re done, and you won’t be bothered with annual bleeding.
Others will no doubt chime in with reasons why NOT to do this (leaks, seal deterioration, whatever), so it’s your choice. Having done this with numerous vintage motorcycles (their brake systems are far more finicky than Fairladys) in addition to my own Fairladys, and having experienced bugerall in the way of problems, I will NEVER return to paint-eating brake fluid (except for ABS).
Floor is now open to comments from nattering nabobs of negativism.
Jon
- mraitch
- Roadsteraholic
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- Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:03 pm
- Location: Lake Balboa (SFV) - CA
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
Just nattering <g> but why not take easy route, then take your advice about silicone.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
- Linda
- Fraternal Den Mother-RIP
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- Location: Los Angeles
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
Clutch slave is dirt cheap from AutoZone. Or you can check the inside of yours for rust...but I wouldn't even bother.
Linda
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
- Cochecita
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 4:40 pm
- Location: Vancouver, Washington
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
Thanks everyone, now I just need to find another window of time to dig in. This is a great group, I can't imagine owning a roadster without it.
Cheers!
Eddie and Cochecita
Cheers!
Eddie and Cochecita
- FergO2k
- Roadster Fanatic-Site Supporter
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- Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2004 12:18 pm
- Location: SoCal
Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
OK, here's my story.
On consecutive Solvang trips, I blew the clutch master and then the clutch slave, with a roadtrip in between where I blew the hose.
If in doubt, I recommend replacing all 3 at once, and going with the braided steel / Teflon lined hose, that is one of those, "do it once, never coming back here again" kind of parts. (and at the time, there was 2 different adaptors needed at each end to go shop for, now the vendors have them complete kitted.
Then just keep an eye on the color of the fluid, and when it turns black then flush it thru (about every 1-2 years).
On consecutive Solvang trips, I blew the clutch master and then the clutch slave, with a roadtrip in between where I blew the hose.
If in doubt, I recommend replacing all 3 at once, and going with the braided steel / Teflon lined hose, that is one of those, "do it once, never coming back here again" kind of parts. (and at the time, there was 2 different adaptors needed at each end to go shop for, now the vendors have them complete kitted.
Then just keep an eye on the color of the fluid, and when it turns black then flush it thru (about every 1-2 years).
Fergus O
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door (sold at 300k miles!)
2017 Honda Ridgeline (2021 purchase)
Los Alamitos, CA
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door (sold at 300k miles!)
2017 Honda Ridgeline (2021 purchase)
Los Alamitos, CA
- Cochecita
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 4:40 pm
- Location: Vancouver, Washington
- Contact:
Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
Update and another thank you to the group!
I finally got a chance to tear into things. It's been quite awhile since I was really elbow deep working on the Datsun, so I have to re-remember quite a bit. I decided that replacing the slave cylinder was cheap and easy enough so I found one for a Datsun 521 and went at it. While trying to take off the rubber hose, I managed to break the hardline.
So we won't be rolling for a bit longer. I'm off to try and figure that one out before posting again.
Thanks Everyone
Eddie
I finally got a chance to tear into things. It's been quite awhile since I was really elbow deep working on the Datsun, so I have to re-remember quite a bit. I decided that replacing the slave cylinder was cheap and easy enough so I found one for a Datsun 521 and went at it. While trying to take off the rubber hose, I managed to break the hardline.
So we won't be rolling for a bit longer. I'm off to try and figure that one out before posting again.
Thanks Everyone
Eddie
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- Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
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Re: Replace Clutch Master/Slave or both
Cochecita wrote: ↑Sat Jun 01, 2019 8:59 pm Update and another thank you to the group!
I finally got a chance to tear into things. It's been quite awhile since I was really elbow deep working on the Datsun, so I have to re-remember quite a bit. I decided that replacing the slave cylinder was cheap and easy enough so I found one for a Datsun 521 and went at it. While trying to take off the rubber hose, I managed to break the hardline.
So we won't be rolling for a bit longer. I'm off to try and figure that one out before posting again.
Thanks Everyone
Eddie
Eddie, from my recent experience with brakes and clutch I think that chances are good that the slave cylinder will solve your problem. My '67 sat for 4-5 years before I bought it in 2000. I drove it around a little then it sat inside for 13 years before I started work on it in early '15. I have replaced all four front wheel cylinders and the clutch slave cylinder due to the water that accumulated in them. The water works its way down into the cylinders, and appears to leave the fluid in the masters in good condition thus sparing them from corrosion. I recently installed silicone brake fluid in both systems and they appear to be holding pressure just fine. I will take any opportunity now to urge owners of any old vehicles that don't get driven to bleed their brakes and get the water out.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn