
Upper & Lower Ball Joint Removal
Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
- Linusrp
- Roadster Fanatic
- Posts: 392
- Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 6:22 pm
- Location: Heartland of America- Kansas
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
Upper & Lower Ball Joint Removal

1967 1600 restored
1968 1600 Gone & Buried
1970 1600 Gone & Buried
1968 1600 Gone & Buried
1970 1600 Gone & Buried
- DatsunBucky
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 665
- Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2003 6:09 pm
- Location: Taylorsville, UT
What I sometimes do with a recalictrant bolt is to put the nut almost all the way back on, and in the case of a castle-type nut, upside down, so the head of the bolt is a couple threads below the top of the nut, have something solid holding the piece the bolt goes through, and WHACK it a good one with a hammer. By not beating on the bolt itself, the threads shouldn't be affected. The shaft is tapered, and once it starts to go, it usually falls right off. Having the nut still on will keep the part from falling out and landing on your toe, too.
I used this method when I replaced the tie-rod ends on our Ford van, and it worked just fine. I'm too cheap to buy the picklefork tool.
I used this method when I replaced the tie-rod ends on our Ford van, and it worked just fine. I'm too cheap to buy the picklefork tool.
Bucky
- Linusrp
- Roadster Fanatic
- Posts: 392
- Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 6:22 pm
- Location: Heartland of America- Kansas
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
Pickel Fork Works
I rented a set of pickel forks for a couple of bucks this afternoon and three of the four ball joints came out pretty fast. I am still working on the' forth castle nut, which won't budge, before I can take off the final ball joint. I hope the penetrating oil works. Thanks again for your suggestions.
1967 1600 restored
1968 1600 Gone & Buried
1970 1600 Gone & Buried
1968 1600 Gone & Buried
1970 1600 Gone & Buried